82 year old rusty frame

I just picked my frame up from the sandblasters today. Now back to fabrication and big grins inside the welding mask. I can't describe how giddy I feel but most of you have felt this before, I think it's called love but don't tell my wife.


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So where's the rest, don't be holding out, let's see some parts.

 

It's a sickness. HRP

 

Most people wouldn't believe there is a near complete collection of 32 pickup parts in that garage. I have been collecting them up for over three years I thought I would be doin burnouts by two ago. Still have a ways to go though but I'll post more pics that are small enough to upload soon. Time to box and build a x-member then I shall reveal the secret blasphemy of this frames origins.

 

Thats a 32 frame? Its hard to see the reveal lines.

 

Flattened rear crossmember?

 

I'd hate to blow the "surprise" before I finish the frame(some people can be sticklers and i don't want them to get me down before i make magic on a tight budget while trying to stay true to tradition)but you are correct Duece, no reveal lines.

 

Now we are all curious. Keep us posted.

 

Yes that came out of not wanting to Z the rear giving up to much curve in the rails. I love the swoopy lines of the factory style frames and the rivets too for making it look industrial at the same time. I kicked the back up until it ran parallel with the mid section for you'll be able to see the rear horns with my 30-31 bed without that lower channel section they have below the bed sides.

 

I'm not a fan of the Lobeck type frame rails with no reveal/non traditional lines which to me is a definably part of any Deuce...HRP

 

So it's a original prototype frame that didn't have the reveal? Not many of them around. Actually made in '31 makes them 83 years old?

 

HUH? HRP

 

I agree totally, those lines are half of the 32s beauty. I am channeling the cab over the rails and making a filler panel in the back with a matching lower "belt line?" I've had this plan to hide the frame that I got with the rest of the original steel parts. $2,000 is what I paid for the cab, bed, front axle, steering, juice brakes, two useable Merc 15s, a gas tank, and a 50s Olds rear(witch I'm saving for another project) so I think of the frame as free to do as I please. I promise to all the members out there that I will build a highboy next, hopefully a heavy chop Tudor.


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And I will say it has a early 32 cab with the smooth front roof portion and welded not screwed. The bed that came with it though has confused me a little in the past. It is shallow with curved sides but has a three hinge tailgate and the side bead lines have no curve for the fenders. Is this a wide bed, is it a 30-31? Anyone know?


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Photos? HRP

 

The photos on my phone are to big, won't upload and I'm out of town for a wedding. The bed appeared to be long in its first iteration as it had been rat-rod-idly bobbed still leaving a middle stake pocket. I shortened it further ditching this portion thus makin the bead line into a continual rectangle leaving the factory gusset piece over the axle centerline. The overall length is about 51 inches now and has more to the behind than forward of the tire.


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Consider using a 42-48 center X-member for a traditional look, all riveted in place. Check out my how to thread. It would keep the "no reveal" haters off your back that's for sure.
Boxing and welding an X in can lead to distortion you might not be able to control. Riveting doesn't. And the 42-48 center X flows into the rails for and aft effectively boxing the frame.
So far not much of that frame looks old. Add a 1940s X to it, drill all the side holes in it which 32 frames should have but leave out the two holes for the K-member legs and it really will look like a prototype frame.
Looking at the holes in your side rails makes me think we're looking at 33-34 rails here. And that front crossmember is Repro Model-A eh? No point trying to pull the wool over our eyes.
I've often considered using the 40-48 rails as they are similar and have a bigger kick up than the 32s

 

Early 32 frames had no reveal and no legs on the center crossmember. Only a handful found their way into private hands. It's believed those that were released were used on pickups.
Ed

 

I would love a mid 40s x-member but every decision is $ based for me. I'm tryin so hard to stay pre-mid fifties on the chassis and body but everything is getting so expensive. I basically have to pretend I have no money to spend at all to keep from spending to much. When I can't have original I go to drastic lengths to fake it. To me a good traditional has got to have mojo. Old parts in good taste equals mojo, that and a good stance.


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More surprises in store.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Looking forward to your build


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Do keep this one up to date. I always enjoy learning something new.

Frank

 

Me too.

 

I never thought I would get so much interest in my post when I put it up. I was going to get around someday to doing a project thread on my truck but I guess I can keep this one going. I appreciate all the positive feedback from everyone it gives me motivation. So yes I WILL keep you all posted, thanks.



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This bed is basically a piece of garbage but I love the tailgate so I decided to work with it. I need to strip it and finish the medal repairs. One day I had a little time to hack on it so I speedily made these alterations I wish it was longer but I saved as much material as I could. The portion that ran aft of the extra stake pockets are reversed to the apposing sides to complete a rectangle bead. Sad it's not a 32 bed but at least it's original steel. It's sorta cobbley looking compared to the more refined nature of the 32-34 bed. This ruff ness works for me with my work horse/bootlegger/Appalachian family vehicle vibe I'm shooting for. To all the readers out there this truck will not be dingy or distressed. I some how want to achieve shine and polish with hints of the 82 years this pickup has been here. I've no desire for it to look brand new but yet want it to be show worthy and spotless. I know period correct does not allow for "super shine" paint so I thought I would hold back when I buff it out maybe give it a look of something had polished a zillion times and washed nearly as much. One more thing I'll state in this long winded rant is that there will be no chrome only nickel and stainless, brass or copper, flathead screws, and no plastic zip ties. The End


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Itsa big truck T bed. We saw a restored T truck at Back-to-the-Fifties and were surprised at the use of the three-hinge tailgate on a T. Ford then went to two hinges for A's, then back to three for 32 and up.

 

As a native Appalachian, I insist you build this as a Corn Belt (or Grain Belt...hiccup ) family vehicle I like where yer headed with this, and it somewhat reminds me of a resto story I heard 25 years ago or so. A collector wanted his Corvette restored so it looked like it had 30,000 miles on it. His restorer said he would restore it like new, and the collector could then drive it 30,000 miles.

 

This is the tailgate. I'm buy no means an expert on anything let alone Henry's world famous T series. This would date the bed much older than I thought, funny besides the bottom or floor if you will that is missing, it has weathered the storm much better than my cab.


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Here is a mock up of some air scoops I made out of steel toe boot inserts. I want these to be low key not racey like the store bought type you see a lot of. Just paint it all black and subdued no one will ever notice.


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These scoops are a bit old,I made them in 1959 out of old alum street sign,but polished them back for my restore on my old hotrod,fairly simple,the inside still got some old sign paint ,by now as it's still there I'm leving it in there.