8 for show 4 for GO! May monthly banger meeting

well, it looks better in those shots that it really is,....pretty high, to high for my taste. I want to get her lower, '32 style wheels, 32 axle reverse springs will get me there,....and would look as it would have and been done correctly as it was in the day.

 

Anyone know if this is a good starter bendix product? Would it just slip in place where the traditioinal one would go??...or..???
check it out...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...;3AMEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=140118377805&rd=1,1


thanks
CTK

 

Yep...I've got one of those fitted. Too much 12V starting through the stocker makes the spring go 'pop'. I fitted one of these two or three years ago and no problems since.
Bit fiddly to fit, you really need three hands, but worth it.
Snyder's list them at $24.95 though, their part #A-11350-M

Worth a mention, too. If your stock spring goes like mine, you could end up having to pull the engine or trans/rear axle to get some of the spring out. I didn't and eventually the ring gear picked it up and threw it around the bellhousing. Damn near shit myself.

 

I believe the "Model A" head is a vintage aftermarket replacement part, not a speed part. I'm pretty sure I have a picture of that in some ancient Western Auto type catalog.

 

yeah the thought of it being an old aftermarket head did cross my mind,...

So when ya gonna come over and visit Bruce?

 

So, you have a 12V A starter then? is it a conversion, a totally new piece...or is it just a standard starter hooked to 12V?

 

I'm running one on my flathead V8. Just converted to 12V & threw a spring bolt - waitin for the ring gear to pick it up! I popped one of these on & very happy with it so far.

 

I'll have to take a good look into converting to 12V,...is it a completely new 12 V starter, a conversion or what??

 

Converting to 12V is easy on an A. You can buy a 12V regulator that fits in place of the stock one on the gennie, then you just change your bulbs, coil and battery, repolarise the gennie and you're away. The starter doesn't need any mods at all, though the stock spring will eventually give up.
Swap over the wires on the ammeter as well, otherwise it'll show discharge when charging and vice-versa.

 

This is what happened here lately regarding 4 bangers..

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1984278#post1984278

 

Just stole this from the MAFCA site, how to 12 V your starter and horn...

It would be best to convert the starter to 12V...You can do it yourself or have a local shop do it... Just remember it will take two Model A starter motors to make the change. The original motors have a right and left hand field connect in parallel. You must remove the fields from BOTH starter motors and reassemble with one motor having two left field and the other having the two right fields...both sets connected in series. Or just buy the 12V fields from the parts dealer. -- Lyle Meek, 1997 Technical Director


Horn:

To change the Model A horn from 6 volts to 12 volts, you must rewind the two field coils. Leave the armature as it is. First disassemble the horn to remove the brushes and the armature. Unsolder the two wires at the connector clip ( one from each field coil.) Note the direction of winding on the coils. The two coils are wound in opposite directions. The rule of thumb is that when you double the voltage, you use 1/2 the wire size and double the turns. So going from 6v to 12v use 24 gauge wire (original wire is 20 gauge, 1/2 that size is 23 gauge, but almost impossible to find 23 gauge so I have always used 24 gauge readily available at Radio Shack). Six volt coils have 45 turns and I have been using 100 turns with 24 gauge wire with great success. Be sure to use coated wire, normally used to wind RF radio coils or speaker coils. After winding the horn coils I usually brush a coat of light varnish to help insulate. The windings do not need to be real tight or in neat rows. In fact I found that if I wrapped just tight enough to form the wire around the core, and laid about 6 or 7 turns per layer, without being too careful how straight each wind was, I got better results on horn operation. In looking at a lot of original horns, some were manufactured with very precise and straight windings and some were wound very haphazardly.


Bratton's sells the fields already paired for 12V. Apparently this is what is needed to eliminate the violent engagement with 12 to the starter.

 

I am thinking of buying an adapter to put a later Ford (32-39) tranny behind my B, and was wondering if anyone here has doen the same. It's going into my 30 coupe with a B engine. What issues did you have if any? Any down fall? How much did you have to shorten driveline and torque tube? Pretty much any advise on the subject.

 

Good stuff as always, Bruce. I may dissect a V8 starter & see if any of that applies.

On the horns, I prefer my 6V horns on 12V - makes 'em sound angrier!

 

a what am i thinking picture.

 

How about this for a dual exhaust. Two model B manifolds with the middle cut out. Not the nicest, but you don' need to make a plug for the ends.

 

@ Chris: why have all the hassle with an adapter, when you realize that the B gears and early V (32-36) are interchangable. Same for V8/60 truck gears.
I would think you can stick late set of gears in a B case with a little grinding at the bottom of the B case and a late shifter top. I run always a set early straight gears in my B trans and had only one set busted in about 7 years, but i have seen a couple of broken cases that had late gears in them.
just take it easy, the early gears are not so bad.........

 

That is slick! (though I am sure some would cringe at cutting up B exhaust manifolds. )

 

I know people who cut up whole cars....................
What needs to be done, needs to be done.

 

more...in metal

 

What did you do about a radiator core?

Also, do you have a picture showing how you mounted the radiator shell to the front crossmember??

 

I am using a stock whippet core (pressure tested and checked out) with modified inlets and outlets. I will post pics of how i made the radiator mount when I take it all apart for "final" assembly...

 

last mock ups before...the next set???

 

One of my projects http://rides.webshots.com/album/558786345HiXnZi

 

I forgot to say that I really think you have done it right, I would give my left you know what for a Whippet radiator and shell. Shouldn't say that because I don't have time to finish current cars. Every time I turn around something else is wrong or just won't work. I friend gave me the front axle drum to drum off of a 33 pick up he was fixing up, so I put the front axle under my 29 RPU and connected it to my F100 steering. But he didn't give me the rear drums so I bought some that were exactly 12" so naturally the brake shoes are oversize. I sent them down the hill to a brake shop that I have used for odd ball stuff and explain that the shoe's are probably 1/32" oversize but when I get them back I still have the same problem so I have the drums turned. I mean ,I thought this would be a simple bolt on job but no way.

 

It is not that fast

 

There is a product called Casemaster

Casemaster bolts they are for stiching cast iron.

They do another product for heads

http://www.locknstitch.com/

This is what I am going to do mine with.

They are not cheap - but I am told they work.

 

Is that a V8 or an "A" flywheel? V8 flywheels on an"A" use a modified starter. http://rides.webshots.com/album/558786345HiXnZi I am going to retake the dark photos.

 

Almost looks like it could be BOTH flywheels??!? I'd like to disassemble that stuff and try to figure out what and why.
On the early trans case--usually late cluster will fit, and of course putting it in is the way to find if any grinding is necessary. The cluster won't drop below its proper place enough for normal Ford manual assembly method, so the basic workaround is just to assemble cluster and output parts, then install front shaft followed by front bearing and associated parts. Some annoying fiddling around is required, but the normal way is pretty annoying too in the topshift cases...