With a 9" you can get 100% exactly what you want all brand new But it ain't cheap and some is questionable quality. With the 8.8 you can easily get most of what you want at close to 15% of that cost. If you're crafty you can get 100% of what you want for 25% of that cost provided the engine power levels are in line.
Yes. With the offset discussion here as well as from what I've read online ....... leaning to a mustang/firebird or explorer rear with 31 spline. It really allows me to save the $$ to other parts that will I'm sure be over budget. Just those two birds on my shoulder that are always having that discussion and wont shut up BIRD 1: "do the 8.8 from a yard and save the $1200 towards some cool engine/interior stuff" BIRD2: "do it right out of the box the 1st time .... ford 9" all new ........ " BIRD1 : "shuddup" BIRD2 "Your mom" so on and so on and repeat Anyway - thanks for all the info/thoughts/contributions guys. For us guys over our head .... always helps having other people discuss thoughts/ideas and even theory at times
Let me help. I have set up more than a few 4x4 trucks with an 8.8, mostly narrowed Explorer ones. For example, a 1996 Jeep Cherokee, with an AX15 transmission, Atlas IV transfer case (10.44:1 low), 5.13:1 rear gears, ARB air locker, and 40" tires. If all of that alone does not sound like enough to kill an 8.8, let me break it down: The AX15 has a 3.83:1 first gear. That transfer case has a 10.44:1 low ratio. The final drive is 5.13:1. That means what appears to be a measly 225lb.-ft. of torque becomes (225 x 3.83 x 10.44 x 5.13) 46,153lb.ft. when it hits the axles, and the locker makes sure that it goes to both. The only mods: a bearing support cover, and tubes welded, with low-Hydrogen rod, to the center-section. I have seen guys break them, but it took that setup, and one wheel hopelessly wedged (as in we had to torch the rim and leave it behind, probably still there). Convinced yet? Anything can be broken, just maybe not by you.