I'm looking to buy a 671 blower set up for a 354 hemi. This company out of California has a real good price and a good warrantee. I was wondering if anyone out there bought one from Super Charger Supply in Riverside California. I really don't know anything about super chargers and I'm looking for some input.
Please do more research before spending any money. Supercharging is the step up that you take when your need for speed can't be satisfied with normal aspiration. The additional pressures on the lower end can be catastrophic and things as simple as low oil temperature when you nail the throttle can push the crankshaft out the bottom. If you are just going for looks that's another story. Even trailer Queens need forged internals. You might want to leave a PM to Squirrel and talk to him. I believe he just did a road trip with a blown Chevy II.
Call Gary or Bill Dyer. Dyers Blowers. Gary has been building blowers for 40 years. Great guys the Dyers!
I got http://us.get-buy.net/article/New-c...-sbc-Supercharger-Supply-/133202/252067446456 I would not deal with these people. What did you find?
LMFAO I have got to post this. I get better letters from Ghanaian scammers. " Please review cautiously. This is a restored 6-71 cetacean carton custom-made with a nice place of second-hand 671 armatures. This dryer is practised in our boutique with spot head framework,original carriages and sealskins,and a better locate of dagger geartrains. This is a consummate percentage,show polished,and draw near with our complete body container which comprises each contemporary component and gaskets.This liking be individualized to your bod, and inclination take 2 workings life to transport. The supercharger is presently in stockpile and quick to ocean,word Weiand multiply, polished. Outcry us championing otc give out on Prematurely Hemi utensils and Worthy pulley chevys instruments,each in reservoir. 951 674 0572. Each of our consequences are practised in theater,fictional in the UNITED STATES and machined on the virgin 5 alliance CNC devices and reinforced from x stream bomb information,no Asian debris., You faculty appropriate: A new Weiand cetacean increase,polished Remanfactured 6-71 dryer,show polished,situation limitation forms,situation encompass,latest conduct and seals new eye crystal and coerce remedy valve new competitor situation hooter championing your application new position duple carb device representing 4150 Holley or Edelbrock carbs new situation go to and fro layabout corbel,advanced canton 3" loafer assy,or stationary bum console whether it is representing nautical use new 8mm blocks and belt new V pulley-block methamphetamine heart device with azygous or reduplicate belts blower studhorses,each gaskets and component. All these pieces are show polished and set to establish. No carburators or linkage are comprised. This kit liking be shipped with 10% under/overdrive sheaves or you buoy list your sheave options. Please phone or netmail with whatever fitment query.951 674 0572 This is a petrol,roadway supercharger and fashioned and clearenced representing age of fuss paper blistering rodding. 1 age undertaking on each portions. "
What, that doesn't sound legit to you guys? Next thing you will tell me is that my Nigerian prince deal isn't real. My millions of currency is on the way!
I believe get-buy is a content scraping and reposting site, for nefarious purposes. The actual blower place and site could be real.
thanks rich and benno, that's just great, I clicked on the link, now I'm probably on some government list somewhere
Well the OP is correct there is absolutely nothing negative in the ad other then 10% underdrive but it is countered with overdrive so it balances out to neutral.
Gimp I don't doubt that you are correct but then it raises the question, why wouldn't the seller/scammer just cut and paste the content from the real site. Anyway you look at it though it is one whale of a deal.
That was the only thing I found when i Googled it. If Super Charger Supply has a web site, I couldn't find it.
I did indeed. and I had some fun issues with my blower, which I had overhauled myself recently. You probably ought to stick to the better known names for getting a blower setup. The engine needs to be built to work with the blower, but in general you can build a milder engine with a blower to meet your performance goals, compared to the engine you'd have to build to go that fast without a blower. You might be surprised how mild the blown engine my 9 second Chevy II is. Nothing fancy, really. Stock replacement pistons and rings, stock bearings, stock clearances, mild hydraulic cam, etc. Just used forged parts, and put it together carefully, and set up the cam and compression appropriately for the RPM and fuel you'll be using.
Jim, I think we have determined that the blower in question may not be such a good deal. But I have been meaning type this is as good a time as any I suppose. ask your opinion on a blow motor option for some time and this is as good a time as any I suppose. A while back I had a chance to lay my hands on a solid good running 427 tall deck (no cash in hand damn the luck). my understanding is that they were forged from the pistons down stock and were an 8:1 compression motor. They did have peanut port heads but that would be easy enough to overcome. Seems to me like they would be a good candidate for a no fuss no muss blower motor. What do you think?
The intake issue is there...I think there might be some tall deck blower intakes around, or you could run spacers. The pistons are pretty heavy though, with 4 rings. And you'd probably want some rectangle port heads. The earlier tall deck motors had normal oval intake ports, but really small valves. I'd sooner run a typical 2 bolt main truck 454....or build it into a short deck 427. Might cost more, but it would be more "right".
Beaner, I've got 2 complete tall deck 427's. Like Jim said, the pistons are 4 ring heavy things typical of medium truck gas engines. They are cast. The block is 4 bolt. The crank is forged, but its not the "good" forged 427 crank. Nothing wrong with the cranks AFAIK, but they're forged from medium carbon steel while the performance cranks are forged from 4340 or some similar Nickel Chrome Moly alloy. The truck cranks aren't Tufftride treated while I'm pretty sure the performance cranks are Tufftrided same as the performance 350 cranks. I looked at what it would cost to build one of these motors as compared to one with standard deck height, and it gets real clear, real fast, that the tall deck motors cost a lot more to build. Expensive pistons, intake manifolds that cost about twice as much as the same thing for a standard block, or use spacers which I don't find real appealing. Special length distributor that's way expensive unless you use the stocker. And of course the peanut heads require either some decent stock cast iron replacements or something from the aftermarket. Essentially, you're starting with a forged crank and an oddball 4 bolt block and not a lot else. Personally, I like the idea of a 427 rather than a 454 or 502 or whatever. Probably because 427's were the hottest thing around when I was in high school I can use the crank and pick up a standard deck block and build a 427 from that a lot cheaper than trying to use the tall deck block, Fortunately I got both engines free. My dad bought a couple low mileage but totally rusted out single axle dumps at a city auction because they had 6613 Roadranger transmissions and he wanted them for spare trannys for some other equipment he has that uses the 6613. He had no use for the engines since all his stuff is diesel. I assumed since the trucks were single axle that the engines were 366's but found they were both 427's when I checked the numbers. Given all the differences in these motors, free is about the only way to come out ahead on them.
I'm currently putting together a 671 on a Chrysler 354, I picked up the blower locally because I knew its history and the guy that rebuilt it. Weiand manifold from Summit. Most of the drive is off Ebay the crank hub and pulley are from Alky Diggers. I chose to go that way because I could pick out the exact pieces I wanted rather than what was thrown in a kit. I decided to go with a crank hub rather than a harmonic balancer after some advise but I'm still not sure if that was the correct decision.
I've put over 100k miles on a blown engine with a crank hub, no damper. Big block chevy with a forged crank. I think you'll be ok.
A harmonic damper is just that it dampens harmonics. If you build your engine with the appropriate steps to lower harmonics as much as possible you have effectively done what the damper does on a stock assembly line motor. The damper is an effort to do to an assembly line motor what is done by hand with a one off motor.
They are in Lake Elsinore. I was looking up Super Charger Supply in Riverside. I guess that is why I didn't find anything else.
I don't know about a damper but I have seen some that were really flapping. You are correct. What we need is less overthinking and more building.
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