The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by plumbid, Dec 30, 2011.
This is going to be an awesome gasser. Love it! Just read the whole thread and think its great.
I also never built mine to drag race NHRA 1/4 mile. I did plan an occasional run down the strip, and so far mine passes tech at the non NHRA track, but I'm sure it wouldn't pass NHRA for most races.
I guess I started the whole cracking fuel ine concern, as I did mine hard piped and had that issue. I simply resolved mine by cutting out 3" of line from frame to engine, and put fuel line hose and clamps on it. It's not as pretty as it was all hard lined, but it's stopped any further cracking, so it works.
I also don't have a spool, but I do have approved axles, simply because I had my rearend narrowed 20" to fit, and Dutchman axles built to replace the stock axles. I also tried to put in safety items where possible, and tried to make them to spec, if possible, but some things I just couldn't. Like my rollbar. It's not NHRA approved, but I did build it with the correct materials. I didn't build a complete cage, as I'd have to make my car a single seater. There's just not enough room to add a complete cage inside the car and keep two seats with only 42" between the doors inside.
It's more about having fun, building a safe, streetable gasser, than building a 1/4 mile car for me.
I sure don't have all the answers, and sometimes it's better that way!
You're building an amazing gasser, and I'd keep going and have some fun!
THE CAR IS LOOKING BAD ASS!! You wont drive it this winter anyway just step back and work a differant part, a car this well done will have to be drag raced at somepoint , just to see what its like. Mark
That's quite a list so far.....
Your list looks overwhelming written on paper. make it safe to drive, my pos has never been turned away from any nostalgia event raced from kc, to ok , @ texas. i also need to address some of same on your list for it to go NHRA, if they keep up all their rules will shut down the homebrewed cars.
run the battrey switch by a t handle and cable done to a bumber bracket. hide switch up under car out of sight. i set mine up like this with double cable one inside car one at bumper location. good luck
Or just mount a plate below the body and put the battery switch below the rear bumper on the plate. Driveline loop is easy too. Just come off the existing loop with a secondary loop that's either 2" wide, or spaced over 2".
Wall between the trunk and pass. compartment is also a quick fix with the correct gauge aluminum or steel sheetmetal screwed in place, or rivetted in place. Just can't have any large openings over I believe 1/4".
The brake lines can have a metal shield bolted over them of thick enough material and log enough to cover the affected areas.
The seat belt rule is usually held on regular events, but allowed to waive for nostalgia drags. Mine are pretty old, as they were outdated when I bought them at a swap meet for $20 a pair.
I didn't see too many threaded metal stems at the last race I wnet to. Maybe this is a rule they're not real sticky on. Mine passed with rubber stems.
The main reason I follow your thread is because it's such a great gasser build. You're gonna love it regardless of whether it ever goes down an NHRA approved strip. I'm sure it will give you a lot of enjoyment, and I appreciate you sharing the build with us here!
Don't read to much into that, disappointment will be coming if you do. You've got to walk before you run, so get it to the track and start sorting it out. Your first pass shouldn't be an all out attack anyhow, make sure the car can leave straight and stop straight. A few 60 fts, then a few 330's then to the 1/8...baby steps man !
lol I love the dream wheel...
last drag car I built acording to the dream wheel was supposed to run 13.50's
first pass was 12.70 ...ooops! and after a little tuning and adjusting how I launched it
I was running solid 12.50's go figure
That thing.....is bad ass!!! I want to build one now!
Looking great so far, probably should have a filter in between the cell and pump though. Especialy if you left the foam in the cell. It's compatible with gas with some alcohol, but needs changed every year. It breaks down and would be better IMO not to get into your pump.
I went thru some of the same deal you did with the rubber fuel line. Since I was planing on racing mine I used braided hose with AN ends everywhere and regulator on the fenderwell. If you had to move the fuel block from your firewall, I would make or get a bracket assembly using your carb studs and mount it to your engine.
Yes! I always run a 10 micron filter close to the tank or fuel cell! It protects everything down stream.
I got told about AN fittings not being traditional as well, People seem to forget they were used a lot on Hotrods just after the 2nd world war
I like to mount them pumps on rubber, they are real noisy.
Good idea, I run 100 before and 10 after.
Edited due to mistake
Per where I got my filters from. I'm running a 100 before and 40 after pump.
100 micron prefilter for mechanical and rotary vane pumps
40 micron for prefilter for gerotor electric pumps, or after pump before carb
10 micron for after the pump but not recommended for carbs only fuel injection.
Other filter makers may vary, but this has worked well for me.
You are quite right, my mistake I have 100 before and 10 after, Aeromotive pump 7 filters, I will edit my mistake.
Hey, rules are important for racing safety, I'm still for more period correct looking cars. I was in a vintage Stock Car club and we had our own Tech folks, we didn't race at the track, it was a rolling exhibition, NJ was very strict on that. How often was this going to be raced anyway? I would rather pick a period, find the old rule book and try to stay with that but with newer stuff,IE, better rubber fuel lines and all that stuff. You've got to have fun, your doing the period thing by making all you can at home.
My car was raced back in Texas in the day, was I or anyone else there to see it race, no. The car looks bitchin', do some burnouts in the street and have fun.
I would say if you're not planning on racing in full competition I wouldn't worry too much about it! Most nostaglic races say that you must meet the NHRA specs for your class, but most of the events that would intrest me are more of a show up and run what cha brung type of situation and seem to be pretty leanient! I really only worry about safety issues that make my car safe on the street and strip, not the nit picky rules. I realize every rule is made as a result of a catastrophy, but lets be honest If I run my car at 350-400 with stock 31 spline axles, I don't think I'm endangering any thing but my engine! and the drive shaft loop being 3" too far away...really never gonna matter in your situation. I just wanna see you finish this thing and drive the balls off it! Besides you know you will get bored if you finish it and don't have anything to go back and do/redo!
Hope you get some build time in over the holiday! Have a great Christmas!
I just put one of those mini starters on the 327 in my Austin last week! First time I've ever had to shim a starter on a SBC. Bolted it up and hit the key and it started fine. Headed to the gas station for gas, and it wouldn't engage when I hit the key. Called the wife to bring tools and shims, and I lowered it enough to slip two shims in, and tightened it back up. Works great now.
Guess I shouldn't have assumed the clearances would be fine. But I do like the way it cranks the 327 over!
Sure looks good sitting in there! Can't wait to hear you've got it running and driving!
Hope you had a great Christmas and New Year! My New Year was ugly! Spent the 31st and 1st under the Austin replacing the flexplate! Broke a tooth, and found out my engineering wasn't so great! Got the firewall and tunnel too close, and had to pull the carpet, and drill four 1.25" holes to get to the bellhousing bolts.
All back together, but I am sore and tired.
awesome build ,,subscribed
Brrr!!! 12 degrees!!!
You'll definitely need the extra 1/2" on there! I cut a hole on the inside of my collector facing under the car and welded in another 2.5" collector flange so I could route my exhaust system under the car, and put a cap on the factory collector. It also allows me to still remove the header or exhaust for service later.
I eventually took the caps off and put Badlandz HPE electric cutouts on so I can uncap without getting out and kneeling on the ground to unbolt. I made up a short 3" piece to serve as a "dump tube" and hide the butterfly on the cutouts.
I want those extra flanges!!!
I don't think he's got extra flanges, I think he cut the 2" off to install 2.5" pipe on them.
Ah, I read that wrong.
I also like the name but maybe since you went with white you should call it "abominable"! Those headers look great. You should be proud of how far you have come since you started this thread. Its been very informative and entertaining! Can't wait to see this thing running.
Or how about "the abominable beast"? Would suit it perfectly in my opinion. Love the work you're doing.
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