All welded in place now... Ran out of gray primer... Inside trunk welded up now but I don't want to post any pics yet until I get everything covered in seam sealer and painted up.Got some more welding on the bottom side but just about done.I ran out of wire on Friday afternoon.Back on it again on my next day off.
A few updated shots all welds sealed with sealer and a couple of coats of primer and flat black.I will eventually paiint he entire trunk area when we begin the bodywork and shoot the paint but that may be a ways off. New tank about ready to drop in need to give it a couple of coats of rubberized coating prior to installing,pain in the @ss doing it from under the car. A shot of the trunk pan underside.Made it all by myself out of 18 gauge and some 1x1 angle. Still need to address some decent size holes with the rear tire wells.Once they get patched I will repeat the same process as I did on the bottom.Then I can finally put the rearend back in.
Between all the rain these past months and with work the weather wasn't on my side when I was off to get any progress done on my car.So finally I was off with a little cooperation from the weather and I got the rear end,new leaf springs,shocks and gas tank installed with new sending unit. I am almost done with my undercoating of the underside just a couple of small spots on each side directly below the quarter panel and it will be done.I haven't done then yet to do to some small welding that I need to finish. It is very time consuming brushing on the rubberized coating by hand and then waiting for it to cure enough to add several layers to build up a good layer of coating, but I can say this every square inch of the underside has been covered thoroughly. I also finally patched up my rear inner wheel wells and got them covered in the coating as well.Some small sanding and primer and paint for the top of the gas tank to match it up with the rest of the trunk pan then onto the rear brakes,new emergency cables and entire brake line kit and new m/c installed. I still need to address this area of my trunk any suggestions out there? Haven't had any luck in the donor dept.I am think about heading out to the junkyard and look for similar models with this size and type of trunk lip and cutting them out and rewelding them on my car...? Some thoughts I have is maybe some channell or tubing and splitting then in half and tying them into some 18 gauge...Here are some of the problem areas....
Got a small update on the build.I started to take some of the brackets off the block to clean it up a little.I notice though there was a good size amount of white powder within the thermostat housing not sure what that could be. The block has been sitting for a very long time maybe some form of radiator sealant I don't know.I will post up some pictures tomorrow when I can get a chance to d/l on the computer. I'm debating on either just flushing out the block real good and putting on a new water pump and carb and getting the motor back in and running and see how it runs or taking the other route which would be,to take out the stock cam and doing a power combo with new lifters,camshaft and timing set.What do you guys think? The engine is already out and on the stand...?
Haven't updated the topic in a while and I thought I would add some pictures of the ez-cool install and the engine.Since I have the weekend off I will install the new radiator and hoses tomorrow.I also scored a edelbrock 600 cfm practically new for $60.Now I have never ran a Edelbrock carb so I doon't know them that well but it was to good of a deal to pass up so I got it. I might just use in to start the engine up and then swap it out for either a Holly or Autolite anyway here are the pics... The engine with new intake and fuel pump...I had to repair the timing cover since it had a samll pice of aluminum missing on the front oil pan bolt hole.I got it welded up and then drilled out a new hole and tapped it.Here are a few shots,by the way for anyone that has a 260 without the oil fill tube finding a good timing cover is not that easy.They are out there but sometimes depending on the condition can get pretty expensive so I opted to repair my old one. Problem area designated by red arrow... Bottom shot Took it my old job and I sandblasted it after it got welded to clean it up.I want to point out when I was cleaning my block for painting I stumbled upon this area.I was covered with silicone and had a bolt with a nut on it. now I fugred it might have worked without leaking but I am anal about stuff like this so I went ahead and fixed it right the first time,rahter than install it like that and have a leak at a later point.
The engine and tranny are installed,I had the c4 rebuilt a few months ago and then I bought my c4 mount from Falcon Enterprises.Some of the bolt holes needed some drilling out for it to seat properly but I am happy with the final results. Now I need to double check the length on my drive shaft and yoke and then it should be ready to install.Sure could use a set of some finned valve covers to freshen her up on top I have been looking for some Weiand's to match the intake but have not had any luck in the SBF department.I have came across quite a few for SBC but seems the Fords are harder to come by... A shot of my ACC carpet kit which also will be going in this weekend. I will post up somemore pics when I get some more things done. Muncie
That is something I am stil debating on.I want to run headers and I have heard conflicting stories about the Headman shorties.Some say they fit with no problems while others say there is clearance issues along the lines of the steering box and running the exhaust. As of now I am planning on sandblasting my old manifolds and then painting them with some high temp heat.I might buy the headers and try to install them and see if I run into any issues,at least that way I could always return them before I start to bang on them.
The Doug's Tri Y's will bolt right in with no clearance issues. A little pricey but great quality and they make good power. I have them in my 63.
YEAR SELECTED: 1964 MAKE SELECTED: FORD MODEL SELECTED: MUSTANG 260-302W Clear Vehicle Selection <TABLE cellSpacing=15 width=554 align=center><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width="20%"> </TD><TD vAlign=top width="65%">THY-289Y-C CERAMIC COATING, 1964-1968,260-302W, MUSTANG, NO FALCONS Plus $879 for a set of headers is expensive List Price: $879.00 It's a proven, indisputable fact: Dollar for dollar, no other investment will increase power and performance like a set of Doug Thorley Headers! ... </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
A few shots of the engine... And how she sits,still needs some body work and paint...Then I can finally install my grill and bumpers.
Need to take some shots of the bodywork,she is still in primer.Body man needed to have surgery on his shoulder so once he is all healed up we will paint it.
i vote sell that smallblock and build a straight six! they're killer motors. grab one out of a fox mustang (79-83) to get the best factory head, mill it and the block for a little more squeeze, stick a cam and headers on it and an autolite 2100 up top and go spank some civics. a little forethought and you shouldn't have much trouble getting a couple hundred horses, plus great low end grunt. they like to rev too. they're a little more expensive to build for power than a windsor motor might be, but if you're planning on all those suspension upgrades anyhow, you'll spend less overall building a six and save some headaches.
30 years ago the conversion parts were hard to come by. If I were to do anouther '64/'65 a Mustang II crossmember would be a no-brainer.
Thanks man,I was looking into hopping up the old inline but it would have been a bit pricey and I already had the small block so in it went.One day I want to squeeze in a 351 but that is a long way off.I need to get this thing on the road I'm losing my patience.
Pulled my vent out looking for a water leak and found this...I am really bummed out now.Now I got to pull the fenders and hood and remove the upper cowl.Damn really upset about this but that is about the only way to see what the corrosion damage looks like and fix it correctly.... These were taken from the floor board looking up... I will post more once I get the upper cowl apart which doesn't seem like it is going to be an easy task....
Getting a drag when starting my car,new starter and has been running fine until today.Any ideas as to what is causing this? Also once she is running I hear a constat squeak like something is hitting against the flywheel.I am wondering if the starter is not fully retracting?
One more thing to add once it is running and I give it just a little gas the noise goes away....sbf 260 auto? Thanks.
Small block Fords, there are slightly different depths of the starter nose for stick and auto. Measure from your metal block plate to the ring gear - it should be either 3/4" or 3/8". Normally Auto's are the 3/4" BUT if the flexplate and bellhousing combo have been switched around, it could be different
Don, Thanks for the info, I did have to change to a 5 bolt bell and a different flexplate. This is the flexplate I am running.... http://bmracing.com/?wpsc-product=flexplate-ford and the starter....http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...&ck=Search_starter_1333909_-1&keyword=starter.
Well I finally had some time to crawl under my car this afternoon and I could not frigging believe it. Both starter bolts had begun to back out,the bottom more than the top.Thus creating the problem.Tightened them up good and the problem was solved. I don't see how they could have back out on their own unless they were never really tight to begin with.
I have had similar issues with bolts backing out on new builds. Even with lock washers, and going over the bolts twice to check. For me it's just part of the ritual of a new build to go back through a couple times checking bolts. The other day I was driving down the street in my Falcon that just hit the road and stepped on the clutch pedal to have it hit the floor! I popped it into neutral and coasted to the side. Looked down and saw a nut and lockwasher sitting on the floor. I converted all my clutch linkage to 3/8" heims for smoother operation, and somehow the nut and lock washer came off. I carry tools, so put it together and got home OK. Once home I took all the bolts apart in the linkage and used blue Loctite on the threads along with lock washers to make sure they stay. I'm sure I'll gradually find more bolts that work loose, or need to be Loctited soon!
Yes sir I hear that, My build has been on the road for less than 6 months and I haven't even put over 1000 miles on it. The majority of it was my first drive in it up to Austin for the roundup which was more or less about 450 miles round trip. Other than that it has mostly just seen street miles and such. I might have not actually really snugged them down in the beginning who knows? I got em snug now but I want to add a lock washer on the bottom bolt.The top one has one,if it wasn't on the bell I would of drop a little of lock tite on them.What year falcon do you have and what are you running in it? Mark
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