Register now to get rid of these ads!

Customs 63 impala swap to dual master but keep drums?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by touchdowntodd, Nov 5, 2010.

  1. touchdowntodd
    Joined: Jan 15, 2005
    Posts: 4,068

    touchdowntodd
    Member

    ive been told there is a simple way to do this...

    NON POWER, just a simple swap to dual resevoir

    get a drum/drum master cylinder (this is a little confusing as I know there are differences between power and manual, and also differences in the years from what im told.. if you know which i should use that would be great)

    block off the line on the stock dist. block that runs to the back

    hook the block up to the front of the master

    run a line from the back of master to the back of the car (or i guess you could run it to the line that goes to the back thats already there)

    anyways.. chevy guys, wanna chime in?

    im trying to get to a dual for safety reasons, had a single go out on me in an old car and it WASNT a good feeling ;0) ....

    i may also be open to the idea of power brakes but i have never dealt with them as far as hooking up the diaphragm etc.. is power worth it?

    thanks
     
  2. Bruce A Lyke
    Joined: Jun 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,523

    Bruce A Lyke
    Member

    i have been thinking of doing the same. there was a time some where after 63 where the dual cylinder was standard and disks (and power brakes) were optional so it sounds like a reasonable approach.
    looking forward to see the reply's from those who have done the swap
     
  3. boomosby
    Joined: Dec 20, 2009
    Posts: 415

    boomosby
    Member

    idk the difference on manual and power, but think power is way better. on all pre 62 caddies there is only a single reservoir as well. the easiest way is just like you say with the lines, block em off and splice on.

    i'd say go with a cadillac booster from 67 or 68. you can buy the entire assembly for ab 120 bux brand new with warrnaty! it has drum brakes all around and this unit doesnt use a proportioning valve. also makes ab 1200 psi of stopping power. so easiest way in my opinion would be that. to do it with out a booster would be pissing in the wind since the pedal would still be hard. its like saying power steering or not?
     
  4. boomosby
    Joined: Dec 20, 2009
    Posts: 415

    boomosby
    Member


  5. with drums front and back match the master cylinder bore to the wheel cylinder bore size then measure the bolt spread and bring this info to the parts store. chevelle or camero is my guess.
     
  6. DeucePhaeton
    Joined: Sep 10, 2003
    Posts: 1,013

    DeucePhaeton
    Member

    I used a manual cylinder from a 68-72 Nova. Been on there for 27 years.
     
  7. Cincinnati Slim
    Joined: Jun 26, 2007
    Posts: 373

    Cincinnati Slim
    Member
    from Cincy, OH

    I went with a dual master cylinder on my Chevy.

    Went to the parts house and asked for a '69 Chevrolet fullsize with manual drum brakes and it bolted right up. As far as matching up to the old lines, can't help there since I ran all new ones at the same time.
     
  8. touchdowntodd
    Joined: Jan 15, 2005
    Posts: 4,068

    touchdowntodd
    Member

    this is gonna sound really stupid... but where on a stock '63 283 would i get a vaccuum line for the booster? thats the only thing to be hooked up right?

    seems like not that huge of a $$ difference to go power, but if its really worth it i might...

    only difference would the vaccuum line for install i think

    ps - for the previous poster i believe it was '67 when dual resevoirs became mandatory
     
  9. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 8,583

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    A master for any '67-'70 Chevy full size car with drum brakes should work.
     
  10. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,044

    squirrel
    Member

    Also after you install the dual mc and bleed the brakes, make sure to see if it does what you want. Open a bleeder on one end of the car, push the pedal, see if it applies the brakes at the other end of the car before the pedal hits the floor. Then close that bleeder and open one on the other end of the car, and try again.

    Dual cylinders have more travel than singles, so you have to make sure the pedal travel is sufficient to move the mc pistons far enough to "save" you if a line breaks.

    Although I've noticed that after you lose your brakes completely once, you tend to be more meticulous about brake maintenance, so the dual cylinder isn't really needed :)
     
  11. BulldawgMusclecars
    Joined: Jul 15, 2010
    Posts: 508

    BulldawgMusclecars
    Member

    On my dad's '63, we used an original '63 booster, and added a dual master cylinder from a mid 70s Camaro. It has front discs, though. Personally, I'd dump the front drums, get some brackets for $60 or so, and add D52 style discs. You could put the "kit" together with all new stuff for $200 or less.

    If you can find one, a booster from a Chevy Monza works well. Its a much smaller diameter than your average booster, yet its large enough to stop the car well. I did several tri-5 Chevys with that booster. I like it because even tall valve covers have plenty of clearance. I don't have the dimensions in front of me, but its a little smaller than the factory 63 booster.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.