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63 C10 trans swap to 700r4

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by main3r, Jan 16, 2013.

  1. main3r
    Joined: Jan 15, 2013
    Posts: 5

    main3r
    Member
    from Maine

    Hi I am in the process of restoring a 1963 Chevy C10 stepside from ground up. I hope someone can help me out.

    I have a question on the "Technical C10 trans swap" posts. I am swapping out a straight 6 in my 63 Chevy C10 with a 305 and 700r4 trans that came out of a 1987 Camero Z28. I beleive the trans will work with a little tweaking from the transmision shop but what kind of tweaks should I have them do? I will be using this truck as a daily driver and towing.
    The next quesions is several diferent users have explained why GM added the front crossmember and suggest leaving it in and adding across member to support the tail shaft of the 700r4. Provided I leave the front crossmember (trans support) should I be concerned with the angle and clearance of the trans to the cross member? What about the emergency brake brackets on the cross member behind the trans crossmember, should I remove this and mount on the new tube tail shaft crossmember I install for the tail shaft. Please note the 2x4 is setting on the e-brake bracket to prevent trans from hitting the crossmembers. Any suggestions are welcome.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,221

    F&J
    Member

    Since the cab is off, there is no reason not to do this right.

    Get a 63-72 pickup/suburban A/T rear crossmember, even if it takes some searching to get one. That one ties into the upper and lower flanges, and eliminates the need for the one under the bellhousing.

    Having that stock bell crossmember; it is just in the way; get rid of it like GM did with A/T versions.


    When you do bolt in the 63-72 trans crossmember, don't use bolts that are longer than needed on the top of the frame flange, as they will be hard to remove when the cab is on later. the cab floor comes pretty close.


    I don't recall anything difficult with adapting the old E-brake linkage to the new crossmember.
     
  3. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,193

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    even easier, get a tail shaft from a 94-96 caprice 4L60E, the trans mount will be way back by the yoke. Easy bolt in swap and usually around $20 and then you it looks like you should be able to use that existing crossmember. No cheap ones on ebay right now but they come up if you watch for them.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2013
  4. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,221

    F&J
    Member

    That existing "crossmember" is actually not a trans crossmember. It was used to mount the e-brake linkages on standard shift trucks. It is too weak to support that trans.

    and you are still stuck with the bell crossmember being in the way.
     

  5. It is best to use the tranny mount nearest to the pan. This mounting area is part of the case whereas the mount on the tailshaft is part of the bolt-on tailshaft. Utilizing the mount on the case itself will create less stress on the aluminum unit as an assembly.

    And speaking of the case..... If you are towing or planing any engine mods, I would make sure you are using at least an "MD8" case. There are 3 types of basic 700R4/4L60 cases. The "MD8", "K" and a case with no markings. A case with no markings is the weakest whereas an "MD8" case is much stronger and the "K" case is your best.
     
  6. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,193

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    The crossmember under the trans looks plenty strong enough to hold the trans and would be easy enough to beef up if needed.
    Trans mount on the tail shaft was used in tens of thousands of full size GM cars from the factory, works fine, if it would be an issue GM would not have used it.
    Just another option for the swap, there are many ways it can be done.
     
  7. In MOST cases GM used it with a Torque Arm. Totally different situation.
     
  8. Actually, he could even already have that mount, I've seen some with both. The one I pulled out of a diesel Suburban even still had a third type of mount to it, not being used, must have been on the core trans and never taken off.

    If you're going to tow with it, run a trans temp gauge and an auxillary cooler.
     
  9. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,193

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Not true "whaddyacare".
    Torque arm was used in 82 up F bodies with the tail shaft housing that he has already, the 3 bolt bosses are for the torque arm mount. I have owned over 50 of those F bodies and am well aware of how they are put together.
    Housing with the rear mount is from 94-96 and some earlier B body cars, caprice, roadmaster, etc. Again I have owned over 50 of them and have another 95 roadmaster wagon in the shop now as a donor car. No torque arm on these cars.
    Here is the mockup of a 95 caprice 4L60E in my 47 cadillac.

    I have taken apart dozens of TPI / LT1 / LS1 donor cars for my project cars over the years so what came on them I am very familiar with, at one point I was buying one a week. If the trans from the 87 Z28 he is using is the factory one then it will be an MD8 and work fine, I am running the same trans in my 37 buick.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2013
  10. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,221

    F&J
    Member


    Yes, the factory A/T pickups used the tail mount. No arguement there. The standard trans trucks did not have a tail mount; they used the bell side mounts, similar to the 55-57 chevy car.

    I also used the A/T crossmembers in trucks that switched to car 4 speed transmissions, and eliminated the bell crossmember. The 4 speeds are a lot longer than the old short tail lighweight 3 speed, and the 4 speed is better supported at the tail...compared to try to hang it off bell mounts.


    That e-brake crossmember is thin, it was never designed to be a trans mount. Yes, you can beef it, but the orig GM A/T cross makes the job so simple. And the later A/T cross has twin depressions on it's lower edge for the dual exhaust to get up tigher under the truck.
     

  11. Well we'll have to leave it up to the OP as to what he thinks is the better way.

    Besides what do I know? I've only been racing GM overdrives with great success while others won't even consider them. So what do I know, ha ha!
     
  12. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,193

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Exactly, it is up to the OP. Hard to tell over the net but not trying to start an argument, just offering different options. If the factory style crossmember can be easily found then I would go that way. If not then start building. Sometimes this stuff is way overthought.
     
  13. Now there's something we can both agree about! :D
     
  14. main3r
    Joined: Jan 15, 2013
    Posts: 5

    main3r
    Member
    from Maine

    Hi Folks,
    thanks for the quick responses. I will read them old and decided which direction I will go. I have posted help on other site and never got responses this quick or good.

    Mainer
     
  15. flthead
    Joined: Jan 13, 2013
    Posts: 43

    flthead
    BANNED
    from Midwest


    Gm built vans, pick ups, tahoes, suburbans, and impalas also. I think those out number the f bodies 5 to 1. So MOST is a false statement.
     
  16. The debate is over but most of those used the mount on the case up by the tranny pan.

    Oh and for the record: One of the easiest places to find a 700R4 with a "K" case is in a 2WD, V6 S10 pickup.
     
  17. main3r
    Joined: Jan 15, 2013
    Posts: 5

    main3r
    Member
    from Maine

    The tranny did come out of a 1987 Camero Z28 and is a MD8. I just looked at the frame rails both left and right upper and lower have holes that I believe will allow me to use the crossmember out of a 63 -72 F&J suggested. Do I need to worry about the tranny angle or will it be ok with the crossmember out of a 63-72?
     
  18. main3r
    Joined: Jan 15, 2013
    Posts: 5

    main3r
    Member
    from Maine

    Hey, has anyone installed CCP Trac Bar for the 1963 C10? Having problems, the bracket is about 1 1/2 inches behind bracket on drivers side. Anybody ran into this? CPP is suggesting I move the bracket; I am a little concerned as the original Bracket is beefed up quite a bit.

    Any suggest will be greatly appreciated.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 22, 2013

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