im swaping a 85 t 5 in my 62 170 ranchero soon and i want to find a good build thread of it being done any help is greatly appreciated
Done it. Have a S10 T5 behind my 144, in a '60 Falcon Sedan. It works VERY well. I can give you a list of parts, but it will have to wait for tomorrow. Wedding plans take priority. The stock flywheel needs some machine work, but that is easy for a good shop. The clutch fork needs a little modification, and then you can use an unmodified S10 T5 throwout bearing. I modified my z-bar for pedal feel. The rest is off-the-shelf stuff, unmodified. Most of my information came from here, although I did not use the info exclusively: http://www.rickwrench.com/index79.htm Rick used an Alfa Romeo pressure plate on this build. He has since changed the clutch, due to age/mileage, and is now using the Mercedes pressure plate that I used. The key to doing this is the early Econoline bellhousing. It has the small, 8-1/2" clutch diameter, but the "regular" passenger car transmission pattern, instead of the oddball 2.66 3-speed pattern on it. You can adapt that pattern. Offenhauser has an adapter that turns that to the S10 GM/Muncie/Saginaw pattern, found on the S10 T5. The bellhousing is also randomly too shallow for the T5, by the EXACT thickness of the adapter. I did my install inside of one day, once I had all of the parts and machine work done.
I know this is kinda a off question but what are Y'all doing with your to big to ship parts when you change them out.I hate to junk a good 60 Falcon 3sd trans with bell housings and driveshaft and rear end but nobody near me needs them ?
Adapter, S10 T5 to early Econoline bell: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Manual-Trans-to-1949-64-Ford-Bellhousing-Adapter,20628.html Pilot bushing, Ford outside, GM inside: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-8-1380-1 Pressure plate bolts (need 9): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-742-0750 Throwout bearing (Stock S10 T5): http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1060726&parttype=1968 Pressure plate: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=3017694&parttype=1988 Clutch disc: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1179547&parttype=10605 Shifter: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Core-Hurst-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f2973c5de&vxp=mtr You will need to have the driveshaft re-worked, or have a new one made. The u-joint on the axle is small, and not terribly common. It will probably be hard to find a tube yoke for the GM joint that will fit the small diameter Ford shaft. It will not be a big problem to have a drive shaft made to fit the GM yoke, and a little Ford yoke on the other end. Your local shop should be able to pull it off. Since the little Ford yoke is not common, they may not have it. They can get it here: http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/category/cat_driveshaftcomp_tubeyokes.html I shortened the down-side of my z-bar, by 2". You will need to re-work, or make a new transmission cross member. The parking brake support will need to be lowered on that setup, to clear the new transmission yoke. You will need to shim the pinion angle to match the new engine/transmission angle. The speedometer heat has a screw-on fitting, rather than the classic Ford push-on one, so you can just use a GM speedometer cable, of the proper length. Calibration can be accomplished by changing the plastic driven gear. For obvious reasons, the "fin" on the bottom of the tailhousing will need to be removed. I like to cut them as close to the case as possible, 'cause I run foolishly low. I am sure that I am missing something, so just ask.
When I was looking for that bellhousing, I put an ad out on the "wanted" section, here. I had several offers, at very reasonable prices, so they are out there.
My modified flywheel: And the Mercedes/Jeep clutch setup: The specific construction of clutch discs vary a bit, but either way, the relief cut in the middle of the flywheel must clear all springs, hub rivets, all the way down until the lining is fully worn out. The stock flywheel step is 1.00". For the Mercedes pressure plate, this must be cut down to 0.880". All of the smooth bore holes need to be tapped for the new pressure plate bolts, to the depth of 3/4". A few holes on the pressure plate will need to be slightly enlarged, too.
Rather than modify my throwout bearing, a wear item, I modified my clutch fork. I am averse to modifying wear items, especially welding on bearings. I built up "teeth" on the inside of the fork, until the gap fit the S10 T5 throwout bearing, snugly. The body of the bearing is teardrop-shaped, so it won't spin. I ground the arm a little, so the lip on the bearing would not hit it, during normal operation.
whats the point of a mercedes pressure plate , doesnt a stock one work ,im using a 62 falcon 3 speed bellhousing , a moderndriveline adapter plate shorten the drive shaft and put the mustang yoke on one end and the shifter im bending backwards so its right on to the seat just about , i put the seat all the way back anyways im 6,3 modern driveline has a disk,throwout , and pilot bushing the issue im curious is can a stock pressure plate work Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Stock 8 1/2" pressure plates will work, but to put it lightly suck rocks! most in circulation today have been built and rebuilt so many times they are just trash right out of the package. Going to the Mercedes plate gets you a diaphragm clutch that departs much smoother and is commonly available, plus has much greater clamping force with less pedal effort.
will a mercedes clutch fit the throwout an clutch fork and everything with out issue mostly how much work needs to be done to the fly wheel , and what exact Mercedes clutch is needed oh never mind i think i see it
Go back up and read Gimpy's description above. About 1/8" has to be machined off of the part of the flywheel the pressure plate bolts to, and some bolt holes have to be drilled and tapped. Not a big deal if you have a friend with a lathe, and a tap and die set. I haven't done this personally with one of my cars yet, but I helped a friend do this just as a stock replacement recently, and it was awesome!
so i have the stock clutch and bellhousing in my 62 ranchero 170 is it a 8.5 or a 9.5 clutchand are the teeth count for the splines thesame
The diameter and spline count between the stock clutch, and an S10 5-speed, and the stock 3-speed are different, as is the collar where the throwout bearing rides. Your 170 has an 8-1/2" clutch.
The physical amount is between an inch and two inches, but don't run out and have your drive shaft simply cut randomly. Get the trans in there and slide the yolk in, pull it out about an inch and half, measure from the center of the u-joint in the yolk to the center of the u-joint at the differential WITH THE WEIGHT OF THE CAR ON THE REAR SUSPENSION, so put it up on ramps. This is the only way to really gat an accurate measurement on this. Gimpy might chime in on his cut length, but there were different rear end types under the cars, so wouldn't take any one measurement as gospel.
I am running an 8.8 from 1991 Ranger (3.55:1, LSD), that I re-drilled for 4-lugs, and the driveshaft (50-1/2")) from the same, so my setup does not well relate.
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