'62 pontiac brakes

alright..so i replaced my front wheel cylinders on the safari on monday night..turned the drums and replaced the shoes.and adjusted the brakes..ive bleed my brakes OVER and OVER..no air bubbles at all...now here is the problem..my pedel sinks right down to the floor...and it doesnt seem to come back up like it should..i cant get any pressure....the master cylinder has worked fine and never shown any sign that its faulty... i tried to bleed the rear brakes also but the bleeder screws will prolly break of..then i will have to replace the rear cylinders too..and right now...that will suck..any ideas on how to fix my problem?...lemme know...thanx dudes....craig

 

What was the original problem? No pressure? Leaking front cylinders? were you driving and all of a sudden had no brakes? and saw fluid puking out down a tire?
If the car has been sitting, expect to change all the hydraulic components.
Theres a leak or bad part somewhere. Maybe a line or hose..
I also gravity bleed my cars. Open a bleeder, pump the pedal to start it out, then let it go until you see no bubbles. That pump 3 times and hold shit doesnt work as good.
You will need to bleed the rears too, so get ready to buy those cylinders too.

 

In the past, I've had to force fluid up through the lines into the master cylinder...I don't know why it had to be done that way, but it worked...

 

If you have air in the lines you should still be able to "pump up" a pedal then lose it after you let up.

If the pedal sinks with no other leaks ...you need a M/cyl. Make a M/cyl plug by welding up or crimping off a piece of brake tubing. If you can't get a pedal then.... replace it.

 

[ QUOTE ]
What was the original problem? No pressure? Leaking front cylinders? were you driving and all of a sudden had no brakes? and saw fluid puking out down a tire?
If the car has been sitting, expect to change all the hydraulic components.
Theres a leak or bad part somewhere. Maybe a line or hose..
I also gravity bleed my cars. Open a bleeder, pump the pedal to start it out, then let it go until you see no bubbles. That pump 3 times and hold shit doesnt work as good.
You will need to bleed the rears too, so get ready to buy those cylinders too.


[/ QUOTE ]
desertratrodder the original problem was the front wheel cylinders were leakin' The master cylinder has never been a problem...

 

has anyone ever heard anything about bleeding your brakes with the drum off? lets say it happened 'cause the person doin' the job was a scater brain...could this damage the cylinders at all...or is that one of those tales you hear...
i really need to know ...

 

If you tried to bleed the brakes with a drum of, you'll need to put the pistons and seals back into the W/cylinder and try again with the drum in place.

 

You didn't say whether you had a single or double circuit system but in any case the procedure should be:
Make sure the m/c is full and then begin by bleeding the cylinder furthest from the m/c(usually the right rear).If the bleeder screws are frozen,it is sometimes possible to crack open the line and bleed from there but it's not really reliable,and if your bleeders are frozen,the lines probably are too.Start soaking them in PB Blaster.
If you can borrow one,use a pressure bleeder as they work great.You would probably need to make an adapter for it but that is relatively easy.Get a spare m/c cap and drill a hole in the top to accept a male air chuck.Screw the chuck into the hole using pvc tape to seal it.
The pressure bleeder is nothing but a pressurized canister of brake fluid.You pressurize the can and snap the female air chuck onto the adapter(after installing the adapter on the m/c)and start bleeding the cylinders starting at the rear.Let the fluid flow until there is no evidence of bubbles.Repeat for each wheel cylinder until done.Disconnect the bleeder and reinstall the original m/c cap. The pressure ensures the cylinder stays full while bleeding.Hope this helps.
Ray