Projects '61 Falcon Street/Strip Gasser Build

Pedal fab. I used DD shaft and a Borgeson coupler for the clutch. 3/4 oilite bushings will make for smooth movement. I'll add grease fittings while I'm at it. I'll add a support bracket on the LH side to keep the pivot shaft from deflecting. '48 F1 pedal pads will top it off.
With the 8" engine recess, I don't have much room between the clutch shaft and fork. I'll have to notch and bend the shift fork forward to make room for a longer op rod.

 

awesome, well thought out design and work.

 

The clutch fork is a bit higher than the floor line. To clear the fork, a gas pedal riser was in order. A piece of sheet metal, a little hammer forming, welding and grinding did the trick.

 

Clutch linkage will be interesting. What is the application of the clutch throwout fork and pivot?

 

Application? big input Ford toploader. I'll run a rod and rod ends from the cross-shaft arm to the fork. I'll have to cut and bend the fork forward to gain a longer rod for less angle during clutch activation.

If all else fails, I'll run a cable.

 

Arm looks new. Application. Big block, FE/385/Car model? Reinforce the pivot, in the course of getting linkage to work I have broken them. I don't remember if the same throw out arm/bearing, bearing retainer can be used between big and small input. Been 40 years since I messed with T'loaders as I went to Nash 5spd in around 1980.

 

Yep. big block FE/385. Clutch fork and bearing retainer are different but the fork pivot is the same.

 

Thanks.

 

My rubber mounts had a Made in India sticker - not sure that's an improvement over China junk! I've seen the old trick with the bolt through the mount and it ought to work with thick enough washers. Or there's always the old school chain method

 

The curve in the rear floor pan is making replacement part fab tricky. I had to hammer form and weld the rear edge of the trans tunnel. The ladder bar covers should be fun.

 

The tapered ladder bar covers were too short for a brake press. Angle iron, wood hammer form and a big hammer did the trick.

 

I need to decide on some rear street tires for the 60s street-and-strip themed build. I will drive this car often, occasionally in light rain.

Towel City cheater slicks or Diamomdback bias-look?

 

Awesome build!

 

How willing are you to compromise looks for drivability or drivability for looks? I think the standard bias ply would look like butt and kill the look you’re after…

 

I'll drive this car a lot on the road and I'll have slicks for the track. Tires need to ride well and look period correct.

 

I followed your build elsewhere. That was some serious hotrodding ingenuity!

 

What about those shaved radials they offer? They have an old Super stock slick look to them…and their inexpensive..I was thinking of going that route as another option for my Falcon..the M&H and skinny Pro Tracs on there now look good, but if I see a rain cloud I’m gone

 

I actually bought Towel City's modern skinny front runner but the tread doesn't look like the website pic.




I decided to go with Diamondback's Auburn Deluxe radial 10.00-15 for the rear. They also make a matching 5.60-15 front runner.

 

Yeah those look bitchin...

 

Auburn Deluxe 10.00-15 are all mounted up. I kinda like 'em.

 

Yeah those look great on there

 

Slicks fit nicely where the rear seat used to reside. There's room for a jack and lug wrench, to boot.

The passenger seat will need quick-release pins; it's a bit tight even when flipped up.

 

Yeah that’s killer…putting tow bar tabs on it?

 

Yep. Nothing says "I plan to tear stuff up" like towhooks

 

Agreed…

 

Good idea. Then at least you can drag it up on a trailer to get it home.

 

Hey Brian, what’s the width of your back wheels. I have 15x10 wheels and I’m also trying to decide on towel city or diamond back.

Thanks, Jay

 

15 X 8.5.

 

Thanks. Going by your pictures, 15x10 might be too wide. Your tires look perfect on 15x8.5.

 

Frame is painted, brakes, steering and suspension are complete. I'm about to have to spend some real money.

I love working with NiCopp line. It flares and bends like a dream.