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Projects '61 Falcon Street/Strip Gasser Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by brianf31, Nov 14, 2019.

  1. SilverJimmy
    Joined: Dec 2, 2008
    Posts: 547

    SilverJimmy
    Member

    That shows how strong the Top Loader is, just change the input and output shafts and now that small block trans can handle a 427! Dan helped me when I rebuilt my Top Loader in my R Model clone, good guy.
     
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  2. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 967

    brianf31
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yep, just don't call him if you don't have time to chat a while:)
     
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  3. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 967

    brianf31
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    Woohoo! The block is back from the machine shop and I have a shelf full of parts.
    Machined Block.jpg

    My standard crank cleaned up nicely but I'll need a little more clearance for the application. The only problem is finding a reputable crank grinder nearby that won't take months to get it done. It seems that the high end shops around here don't grind cranks. They focus on late model stuff or strokers and they just buy new cranks in lieu of grinding.
    X bearings would work if I could find 'em for a 460.
     
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  4. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 967

    brianf31
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    I'm doing all the engine prep work while I wait on the crankshaft. These heads have fairly big springs and valves at a steeper angle than stock. The exhaust valve retainer interfered with the cast valve cover, forcing me to run tall spacers for clearance (after I filed the spacer).
    valve spring to spacer clearance.jpg

    The result is some pretty tall valve covers. I guess it will help to balance out the ridiculous headers:D

    Valve cover spacers.jpg
     
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  5. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 2,754

    RmK57
    Member

    I have the same spacers as yours. I could have used tall Ford Racing or other raised covers but I wanted to keep the steel stamped “Power by Ford” covers”.
     
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  6. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 967

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    Gettin' there on engine assembly.

    bottom end.jpg

    top end.jpg
     
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  7. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 967

    brianf31
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    The engine and trans are assembled and installed. engine1.jpg

    engine4.jpg
     
  8. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 2,754

    RmK57
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    Going to put the engine on a dyno?
     
  9. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 967

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    Probably after disappointment at the drag strip:D
     
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  10. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 2,754

    RmK57
    Member

    Should be well north of 600hp even with that smallish cam.
     
  11. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 3,633

    deathrowdave
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    from NKy

    Grand slam !
     
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  12. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 967

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    Yeah I'm thinking 625 hp or so.
     
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  13. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 967

    brianf31
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    Due to all the engine setback and the high crankshaft centerline, I have a tight packaging problem for the clutch linkage. Since I’m running a motor plate, I’ll use an actuating rod and rod ends in lieu of a z-bar.

    The clutch pedal pivot is below-floor, running through the middle of the 2” subframe connector. The clutch fork end pivot is currently 2.5” forward of the clutch pedal pivot and it’s just a little lower than the clutch pedal pivot center.

    I’ll chop off the fork ball end pivot and replace with a rod end on a bracket. I’ll have to relocate the pivot 3” forward on the fork to get more rod length. The sketch shows the rod end centered on the fork centerline. However, that would result in a sharp rod angle. Rod force is 180 pounds. I’m concerned that sharp angle might spread the TOB fork end open.

    clutch fork mod.jpg


    The other option is to run a studded rod end to drop the rod end pivot down about .75” (see lower, lighter rod line in the side view). That would reduce the actuating rod angle to allow the rod to pull closer to horizontal. It would result in a 135 in-lb or 11 ft-lb torque on the clutch for, though.

    So whaddya like to minimize clutch damage, sharp rod angle or dropped/studded rod end?
     
  14. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 3,401

    oldiron 440
    Member

    It will make 600 hp all day long if you don’t put it on the dyno.;)
     
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  15. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,350

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    Personally , I would look at the hydraulic setup from 1980's F250's. I have one, and it has been extremely reliable, uses a slave instead of a Hydraulic throwout bearing, and is easy to find. Just throwing that out there.
     
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  16. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 967

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    That would be much easier for this tight fit. That or a cable.
     
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  17. I should have looked at cables with my car, I'm running a Wilwood clutch master and an external slave that is working very well.
     
  18. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 967

    brianf31
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    I run a cable on my '31 A. It works fine if you occasionally adjust out the cable stretch.

    I looked closer at this build last night. A push-type external slave may not work; the clutch fork actuates rearward and I only have 4-5 inches between the fork and the motor plate. It's looking like I might have to run a cable but I'm not sure if I can get a large enough bend radius in it for smooth operation.

    If that won't work it's a $$$ hydraulic clutch set-up.
     
  19. Great build keep the updates coming.
     
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  20. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 967

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    After you mentioned the slave cylinder, I did some digging and think I found a compact master/slave solution. A 7/8 bore Wilwood 260-3376 master with remote reservoir and a Speedway 7/8 bore push-type slave that's about 3.25" long ought to be doable. Add in an Afco braided hose and it's a little over $200. If the $60 clutch cable I ordered doesn't work, I'll go that route. I really want to avoid a hydraulic TOB since it's a PITA to replace.

    Thanks for the suggestion!
     
  21. I run a 3/4" Wilwood master, probably the same 7/8" Speedway slave you mentioned, also a 32" AFCO hose. That size master and slave I see recommended all over these threads.
     
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  22. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 967

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    The hydraulic master/slave worked out well. It's a bit heavy on the pedal effort but it will do for now.
    hyd clutch cyl installed.jpg
     
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  23. A 3/4" master may have helped. I originally dropped the clutch master pivot point lower on the pedal arm.. big mistake. It would require TWO people to push the pedal.

    I also had a travel issue. I have a common steel plate on the firewall for the brake and clutch masters. I had to move the clutch master UP and my issues were over. I made 3 mounting plates, 2 were 1/4" aluminum and flexed a ton. I made up some fancy links to give my pedal better articulation. The Bridgeport got a good workout though.

    In the end the combo worked out and the pedal is easy to push.
     
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  24. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 14,901

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Just love this thread.
    I am in awe of how you handle roadblocks or tackle issues.. with a steadfast determination and brains.

    This thread is a Giant.

    Carry on.
     
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  25. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 967

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    Thanks alot! That's quite the compliment on this site.
     
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  26. I'm not a ford guy but also enjoy the work throughs and the mechanical part of your build. What do you think that car will weigh ?
     
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  27. Wow this thing will be moving under its own power very soon…very cool car
     
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  28. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 967

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    Thanks. I'm hoping it comes in around 2800 pounds.
     
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  29. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 967

    brianf31
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    Thanks. I have a buddy coming to town this weekend to help me thrash on wiring and a million little things. I hope to fire it next month some time.
     
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  30. Success teaches us nothing. Run into a roadblock, you will find your way around it. Keep your head down and keep pushing. It took us 3 weekends to get my clutch working the way I wanted it to.
     
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