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60's FED enters the shop!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kisam, Jan 26, 2012.

  1. "Gary, You have to ask the fat man in the red suit and you have to be on the "Good List" - naughty boy!"


    What did I do now? :eek:
     
  2. 60 ford
    Joined: Nov 23, 2007
    Posts: 1,806

    60 ford
    Member

    Awesome FED.
     
  3. dragsled
    Joined: May 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,976

    dragsled
    Member
    from Panama IA

    Did you hear back from garlits yet, Your chassis loks like a few of my old cars, five diffrent welders adding there handy work?? plus i had to add my birdshit welds also, Good luck on the build, plus like i said when you start chaseing down parts give me a shout, I'm a scrounger from way back Tim Jones
     
  4. finishline
    Joined: Nov 24, 2011
    Posts: 19

    finishline
    Member

    keep that baby in the tens and have fun.
     
  5. Tom S. in Tn.
    Joined: Jan 16, 2011
    Posts: 1,108

    Tom S. in Tn.
    Member

    Tank says 5 gal alright. Could have been cut apart for mod's and welded back together.
    That Fenton adapter looks like it may have been a Ford to Chev (vice versa) adapter that has had the throwout brg collar cut off and used as front coupler shaft brg support, then bolted to the back of the clutch can.

    Motor plate drilled Ford? All I can do is guess.

    Oxy/acet welding. Effective for the most part and the way it used to be done on aircraft and was the standard back before every one had a heli-arc and even after the hot cars had to be certified by an inspector.
    But had be careful with torch mixture, temp, and technique. Field repairs and mods take their toll. I've seen a frame rail bondo'd over a section where shrapnel damaged it as a quick between meet fix, where there was not enough time to cut and graft another section in, as well as put another motor together.
    Start with fresh tubing cut and fit, magniflux axle, spindles, steering, brakes, and use all your existing parts and components, and 7.0's here we come....... !

    This will make a nice car. Tom S. in Tn.
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2012
  6. When did you get this thing, and how did you keep it a secret? I should have been looking in the shop instead of peeping in the windows.
     
  7. go-twichy
    Joined: Jul 22, 2010
    Posts: 1,650

    go-twichy
    BANNED

    i know this is rude but, how much was it? i've got a 392 i've had for years that i'm wanting to find something like this to play around with. if you can't say, i understand. this one to me looks just about perfect! have fun.
     
  8. kisam
    Joined: Feb 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,920

    kisam
    Member

    Must be the Natty talking - you stopped by just after I unloaded it??


    I think finding a good frame is the key. There are a few HAMB members building frames. I was getting ready to order one, when I found this one. Mind you I had been looking for about 1 1/2 years. I would guess you are looking at 2-6K, without motor. Check out the classifieds on here. There are a few rollers for sale.
     
  9. J scow
    Joined: Mar 3, 2010
    Posts: 489

    J scow
    Member
    from Seattle

    Alright I lurked and stocked tuffy.... I'm subscribing to this, you are one bad ass inspirational chick! I learn a lot on your threads. Thank you!
     
  10. ChassisResearchKid
    Joined: Feb 18, 2006
    Posts: 764

    ChassisResearchKid
    Member
    from Michigan

    The Fenton Trans adapter looks to be for a Cad-Lasalle. Todd
     
  11. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,533

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    Ok, let me get this straight. Your trying to tell me a girl who can build that awesome coupe has to find a frame already done cause she can't build one? BS. I don't think so. When I mention building a new frame cause I believe the old ones are unsafe, I catch hell and everyone says...well, I only want to run 10's. Well, fall off a tricycle at 3 mph and see if you get hurt. 10's is quick and fast. 120-130 mph the frame comes apart and you will get hurt. Make damn sure the tubing is good, no, great shape. I'm not trying to cause trouble or preach but there seems to be a misconception about these 50 yr old pieces of welded tubing. Yep, they are cool, FOR A CACKLE CAR. Just because it doesn't run 200 doesn't mean it can't kill you. Flame away guys and girls. Just tell me you really understand. ;) Lippy (the most disliked guy on the Hamb right now) in Ks. BTW, Kisam your a neat gal.
     
  12. I still like you Lippy:D
     
  13. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,533

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    Aww shucks Boyd. :D
     
  14. H.G. Wells
    Joined: Mar 11, 2006
    Posts: 386

    H.G. Wells
    Member

    As someone who overpowered and bent an old frame I have to agree with Lippy.
     
  15. billys54
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 1,295

    billys54
    Member

    Nice score keep us posted with progress
     
  16. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,533

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    I wasn't trying to rain on anyones parade, just be careful with that old tubing. Lippy;)
     
  17. kisam
    Joined: Feb 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,920

    kisam
    Member

    I'm not sure which way I will go with that, as I have a good rebuilt C-4 just setting there. I'll probably catch Hell for that one, but I'm trying to keep it simple. Did they use those trans into the mid 60's? There are a few things on the dragster that look more '50's to me, ie the seat belt and rear wheels.

    Noted Lippy and HG! Your not raining on my parade and I appreciate all the input. I'm going to make sure the frame is safe and right. My son is already eyeing it, so it has to be. This is probably a stupid question, but do they magnaflux frames? I think it's time to buy a tig machine.:rolleyes:
     
  18. go77377
    Joined: Feb 11, 2012
    Posts: 1

    go77377
    Member

    This is from a 1964 Garlits catalog, I thought it might be a interest on identifying the car.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2012
  19. Tom S. in Tn.
    Joined: Jan 16, 2011
    Posts: 1,108

    Tom S. in Tn.
    Member

    Glad someone posted this photo above. It shows roll bar extending all the way to the bottom rail; a Garlits exclusive to my knowledge, and a good design I always thought.
    I did not want to start the controversy without a photo, but the car in question here might not have teched (let alone SEMA'd) in later years because the uprights resembling the lower part of the roll bar in the example above, faced rearward and at a steep angle toward the driver.
    Don't know, things may be different today, and I have not been to a track to race since the 70's. I could be wrong since all I can go by are the photo's on the screen, but this car sure looks like a fuel car from the renegade circuit to me. I am only guessing, but can't wait to see it take shape.

    Kisam,to answer your last question; Yes, you can magnaflux any ferrous mat'l or dye check all kinds. Sonic testing I believe is the standard of practice for a chassis' tubing, and based on age alone my $.$$ say this frame would not be considered within the minimum of safety. No way to tell what corrosion looks like inside. What you'd find might make you want to quit racing, especially after the thought of this thing approaching 200.
    Seriously though, in view of safety (always should be first), I'd save the inspection effort, take all the components and start with fresh tubing. Then, have the finish product thoroughly inspected.

    Ever figure what motor was in this car? Would help in case we run across pictures.
    Tom S.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2012
  20. KING CHASSIS
    Joined: Aug 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,866

    KING CHASSIS
    Member

    I totaly agree with what Lippy said. I am the first person to get a ga ga ed over a old dragster. But the truth is there. I had the front half of a dragster that a friend cut in half. I went and got it 3 days after he cut it in half. When I stood it up in my garage a giant amount of rust fell onto my shop floor!!!
    If you do want to race this. First , sand the whole car down to bare metal. Wipe it all clean. And inspect all the weld areas. And around them in a 1" radius too. For crackin of the tube its self, not just at the weld. Especially rearend up rights, housing brackets, roll bar, and torsion bar to frame. I have heard alot of torsion bars breakin off the front of cars. If all that checks out.
    Second. Pay a NHRA tech inspector his fee to come over and SONIC check all the tubes. That will tell you in my opinion if it is rusting on the inside. Because of the measurements will not be consistant.
    If have any doubts just use this frame as a " 3D blueprint". And make a new one. And that is what I suggest to do anyway.
    And add bars around the seat area. They will be hidden by the seat and body anyway.
     
  21. kisam
    Joined: Feb 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,920

    kisam
    Member

    I'm paying attention to everything you guys are saying. I work for a pipeline company, so I am pretty sure I can get it sonic tested for cheap.;)

    Tom, I thought the same as you about Garlit's front hoop being solid but then you have the '63 Scorpion V and '66 Wynn's Charger that were not?? Then we have the '64 catalog and it's solid?? Do you think they could have been experimenting with frame flex?

    I talked to the guy I bought it from and he said it had a 413 Max Wedge fuel injected and get this - he still has it.

    Scorpion V '63

    [​IMG]

    Mine

    [​IMG]

    Wynn's Charger '66

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2012
  22. GaryB
    Joined: Dec 19, 2008
    Posts: 3,529

    GaryB
    Member
    from Reno,nv

    this is sooo cool Kathy,can't wait to see what you find out what you have
     
  23. I think I have some Magnaflux in the garage, I'll look for it and bring it by if I find it. You can probably score some at work though.
     
  24. BrerHair
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 4,643

    BrerHair
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Really enjoying this facinating detective tale . . . Kathy, you are one Kool lady!
     
  25. 1929CDAN
    Joined: Mar 18, 2006
    Posts: 347

    1929CDAN
    Member

    I think everybody should listen to lippy. Old tubing that looks that bad on the outside can not be good on the inside!!
     
  26. I second that. Beware of cracks AND thinned (corroded) sections.

    As for the engine bellhousing bolt pattern: The 57 354 poly is the exact same block casting number and bellhousing pattern as a 56 354 hemi out of a car. The top four bolt holes are also in the same position as the 340 small block MoPar engine as well.

    The MoPar 'big block' B/RB engines 350/361/383/400/413/426/440 have a different bolt pattern with the lowest bolt holes much further apart than the 'small block' 273/318/340/360 pattern and also early hemi/poly engine pattern. The dowel pin locations will also help distinguish which pattern. Could you post a pic of the entire midplate with a tape measure across the bottom most engine -> trans bolt holes?
     
  27. Magnaflux will only tell you if you have cracks, call your local NHRA inspector to come over and check out your chassis he will inspect the tube for you and tell you if it is thick enough or will cert or not. I think it costs 30 bucks and its worth it, or take to the local track when he is there for inspections ...............
     
  28. Tom S. in Tn.
    Joined: Jan 16, 2011
    Posts: 1,108

    Tom S. in Tn.
    Member

    I can't tell you the year, but uprights in the cockpit area angling upwards pointing toward the driver were declared unsafe and cars with such construction, would not tech.

    [​IMG]

    Note the difference in direction of the last upright in this photo above. This looks like an example of a Garlits (type) car that was updated and put into compliance for continued use.

    There are some guys who post here such as 'dreracecar' who are really up on this stuff. I'd contact one of them who can offer much more current knowledge and advice, but keep in mind the price of some tubing is cheap compared to trying to fly with something that has the potential to break at the most opportune moment.

    I wonder if this car always had a wedge or was one put in by a later owner, and what type fuel?
    I'll keep my eye open for photos of cars with wedge engines. Our first gas dragster we used an injected 361, but it had a transmission also. Tom S. in Tn.
     
  29. kisam
    Joined: Feb 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,920

    kisam
    Member

    Tom, the uprights on mine were added by the "PooPoo Welder". The more I study the frame it looks like two welders. The "Ace Welder" put the fame together. All of Ace's welds are nice, small and professional looking. Then there's Poo, he added all the brackets or maybe he "added to" them and made some terrible repairs to bracing. I'm not sure what he was welding with but he thought more was better.

    I found an NHRA inspector in Houston. Should this be my next move? I was going to sandblast the frame to get a better look.

    30DodgeBoy, The plate hole measurements were
    6 1/2 on top -center to center
    15 1/4 middle -c to c
    15 1/2 bottom - c to c
    I can get a better pic tomorrow if you would like?
     
  30. The inspector should be your next move as he can save you a lot of time and trouble IMHO.............
    and you can tell him what you are expecting to do with the car............
     

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