Well after a great weekend of racing fix, I have been doing a bit more. Got the front end out and sprayed it Chrome, now just waiting for it to gas off before sealing it. Will be so amazing to have the car on all 4 wheels here soon.
Well that's been one of the biggest wastes of my time, effort and money. The chrome never hardened, went to get it ready for varnish the other day, picked it up and it was still soft. The paint just dissolved, it's left a matte silver or streaky finish where I touched it. Absolutely cheesed off. I have still put the front back on the car, just to make it more manoeuvrable and I'll have to rethink the paint idea. :'( Sent from my GT-I9300 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm envious! Of ALL my drag cars, my little FED Bracket Car was my favorite. A SHORT, 120 inch wheelbase (called the car Short Circuit), SBC, shorty Glide, 57 Pontiac rear end/4.10 gears, and greatly needed wheelie bars. Course that was a long time ago, late 70's/early 80's. You'll have the most fun a guy can have, keeping his clothes on anyways. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Well I have picked up one of the bigger finds for the car, an Early Enderle bug catcher, still need the blower so I made a wooden frame to hold it at the correct height and get the feel for the final look.
Not a lots going on I'm afraid, I have been off work for a few months now so I haven' t had a cash flow. So work on the car has had to be put on the back burner.
Fun project - love it! If you're going to run roller rockers (which I'm sure you will), my guess is that they will not fit under those nice ole' Vette valve covers. You might get away with 'spacers' underneath them. Just wanted you to think about that - and check it out before you invest too much in either set of parts. Good luck on the work situation . . . priorities are a must!
Will have to measure, the vette covers are newer retro ones so hopefully a bit higher. Anyone know the size and space requirements for roller rockers? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
re 4 pot brakes ...In Britain , Austin Princess/Ambassador! also fitted to Sherpa, LDV 400 and some Transits, or slightly gigger Rover SD1. You can take the Princess ones apart and put in aluminum spacers/longer bolts between the parts to make them fit any thickness discs. They are made of steel, but are not that heavy in the big picture. The small Ford guys used to use them but Willwood makes a direct replacement in alloy now so the Princess types are probably all languishing in the Escort guys sheds.
Hey UKS, Until you get your FED totally back together and need something to take your mind off of the hectic build, check this short film clip that I took at Lions. There was this very cool looking show quality, SBC powered FEDat Lions in 1960. It was very well done and raced by Manuel Gonzales. The sound was excellent and powerful. Jnaki THE CALIFORNIAN:
How about a closeup of that Enderle hat, it kind of looks like it might be the second generation "bird catcher".
The early bug has a lip cast on the leading edge that the later one's lack. Can't tell from that photo but a bug catcher will have the two forward mounting bolts showing, on a bird or buzzard Enderle they are inside the hat.
Here is a link to an early bug showing the lip on the leading edge. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ENDERLE-Bug...-Go-6-71-to-14-71-Blown-Alcohol-/371881776819 The three fins and the lip are the earliest, then the lip was eliminated and now they are sold without the fins. Any way you look at it they are the best looking injector hat bar none. When Hilborn came out with the four hole vertical butterfly hat I thought that was the best thing since white, sliced bread but then that killer Enderle was introduced.
It sure looks like a mag one. Back in the late 70's/ early 80's a lot of bug catchers had their ribs and front lips removed for a sleeker look. I know that in about 1981 I cut one down for Mark Danekas when he and Marvin Graham toured Australia with the TR-3 Resin Glaze fueller. It was mag as well and when I finished grinding on it, it looked just like yours. And as noted by fordors it is definitely a bug with the front bolts ahead of the butterflies. Roo
Just so folk don't think I have dropped off the face of the earth, I'm still here. Still slowly plodding along, I've been working on the major wiring system. well I have changed the fuses to a box. there is also a relay fitted for the primer pump circuit, so I don't have to run so many wires up to the panel that will be below the butterfly.
Good looking old injector - definitely magnesium and looks like it has the big spool/valve on it -- so it was probably setup for alcohol or nitro (or both). Depending on what fuel you'll be running, you'll need to pickup the right sized mechanical fuel pump - probably somewhere around an 80A-1. If you're running gas, you can probably get away with just hat nozzles, if you're running alky - you should consider both hat and port nozzles (to be able to better tune/setup the fuel distribution on each cylinder). Since you're new to this world, I will say that running blown alky tends to be easier than blown gas. Blown gas has a much smaller tuning window than alky . . . which makes alky a bit easier as far as learning and achieving a solid tune (and not hurting the engine by going too lean). Alky does require a bit more cleaning/maintenance, but that should be done anyway (regardless of the fuel being used). I highly recommend that you have somebody who is an expert on mechanical fuel injections and specifically understands your engine combination, blower setup (boost, etc) - to setup your injector, flow the pump (and recommend the right size), determine the approximate fuel requirements you'll need and determine the right combination of nozzles, fuel circuits, pill sizes, blower pulleys, etc.. They will flow the whole system, setup the leak down, setup your poppets and spring pressures and ensure that everything is correctly setup -- and help you with a "starting tune". I know that sending all this stuff over to the States is expensive - let me know if that is an option and I can recommend somebody who is truly an expert - which would be good for you to know. Good luck . . . B&S
Thanks B&S, Yeah motor is being built for Alky, as like you say easier to tune and it's also the class requirements. Other than the K valve I still need to shop for the rest of the parts, so shipping that to the States to get it flowed with a system wouldn't be a problem.
Well to continue from my previous electrical post. I have now managed to sort all the wiring. The only things to get/fit are the starter and the switches. The system ended up as 2 relays and 4 fuses 1 for the fuel primper pump and the other for the starter ( allowing to reduce wire size to switches ) . Only thing left outside of that is the wiring for the Magneto earth.
Just a tip Keep those new slicks jacked up and off the floor--It will be some time until you get her done and by then they will be flat spotted on the bottom from just sitting Car looks great! keep on plugging! We have always kept our drag cars with wheels off the ground while stored--It pays
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