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Projects 60's 3W Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by hotrodfab32, Jun 1, 2018.

  1. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 1,326


    I am in for the build. I am surprised you did not use torsion bars . Frank
  2. hotrodfab32
    Joined: Mar 23, 2010
    Posts: 46


    The "396" Chevy going in this is actually a 496 because of a left over 4-1/4 stroke crank from racing. It'll be reliable with a lot of low end. Brodix oval port heads, mild hydraulic roller, 1-3/4 headers... For mounts I'm using 2-1/2" universal urethane pads made by Energy Suspension.

    The frame mounts were made from 5 pieces. 1/4" top, bottom and sides and 1/8" rolled edge.

    When they were put together it left a 1/4" pocket for the pad to sit in. Then an angle milled to reduce the step size when they were set on the frame.

    Next a base with a lip was made for the motor mount. There is a 1/2" stud on the bottom that goes through the bushing. A lock nut will be used on the bottom to tighten against the big washer and hold everything together.

    A piece of tubing machined to a height equal to a smashed bushing was used in place of the bushing for mock up and welding to keep everything straight and square.

    Everything was then finish welded.
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2018
    Fitnessguy, enloe, cactus1 and 13 others like this.
  3. hotrodfab32
    Joined: Mar 23, 2010
    Posts: 46


    Chassis up to this point with firewall modified. IMG_3564.JPG IMG_3565.JPG
    Kan Kustom, enloe, brad2v and 11 others like this.
  4. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 13,104


    Very pretty! I gotta ask, what are those front backing plates? Something that has been modified? They look smoother than the common Lincolns and repros.
  5. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 665


    Screw you and your ability to do anything.. awesome build though! I'm in it for the long haul!!

    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
  6. hotrodfab32
    Joined: Mar 23, 2010
    Posts: 46


    They are late 40s early 50s Buick backing plates. I was going to show that next. They do require modification.
  7. hotrodfab32
    Joined: Mar 23, 2010
    Posts: 46


    Thanks doc
    Doctorterry likes this.
  8. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 10,190


    O-Man-O-Man … you do beautiful craftsmanship.
    I think I'll smash my camera on my build in the shop :confused:
  9. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 599


    I used backingplates from a 55 Buick in front on my build.
    And yes they needed some modifications to fit.
    Will be intresting to se how you did.
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  10. neilswheels
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 566

    from England

    lots of cool stuff going on here, i'm in..
  11. Barn Hunter
    Joined: Feb 15, 2012
    Posts: 892

    Barn Hunter

    WOW, great build. Gobs of creativity on the injection, frame and wheels......and your welds are art, too.
    AmishMike likes this.
  12. hotrodfab32
    Joined: Mar 23, 2010
    Posts: 46


    I was cleaning up this morning and taking some pics. This just does it for me.

    Last edited: Jun 24, 2018
  13. T&A Flathead
    Joined: Apr 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,565

    T&A Flathead

    Thanks for not building a cookie cutter 32. Great work.
    cactus1 and AHotRod like this.
  14. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 530

    from Minnesota

    This thread is what makes this board great.Working as a machinist for over 40 years I can appreciate the level of worksmanship you have shown.Carry on.
    SEAAIRE354 and kidcampbell71 like this.
  15. hotrodfab32
    Joined: Mar 23, 2010
    Posts: 46


    Thanks for the positive responses.

    I did a lot of research on Buick brakes after I decided to use them on the front and back. The same 2 and 2-1/4 shoes had been used from the 40's to the early 70's. The early rear backing plates, late 40's and most if not all 50's, look the same and are very close to the correct 2-1/2" offset for a big bearing Ford housing end. So I bought four rear ones and figured I'd just modify them to make them fit instead of making spacers or adapter rings. I actually did the rear brakes before I finished the rear suspension. I want the tires tucked as close to the body as I can get them and with only 2-3/4 back space wheels it was going to be tight fitting a spring between the backing plates. I needed to know how much room was going to be left. Turned out not quite enough.

    To gain some room I welded up the E-brake holes, mounting holes and indents for the pads on the back side. Then straightened them on the press. I actually checked them before welding and found that none of the 4 were very flat from start. I set the backing plates up on the mill and cut the pads and lips down about 3/16. Now the backing plate will go into the drum all the way down until it bellow flush with the drum. Next I cut a section out of the middle and tacked it back together so with the 2-1/2 Ford offset the front of the shoes just clear. A lot of work for a 1/4" (1/2” total) that I'll never do again.
    HAMB IMG_4429.jpg HAMB IMG_4430.jpg
    I was able to get the 44-1/2 spring perch width for a 4" narrower Model A spring but its tight.

    For the front I made spacers and sleeves so the outside bearing on the stock Buick hub was in the right place for the nut to tighten against. All of the stock Buick bearings and seals are used to simplify things.
    HAMB IMG_4425.jpg

    Once the drums were mounted the amount of offset needed on the backing plate was figured. The centers were way too small so I cut them out just big enough to go over the spindles and made pockets to weld to them. Everthing was clamped flat and parallel, tacked then welded. They were put in the mill and a light cut was taken on the new cup faces and pads. Finally new spindle holes and bolt holes were put in on center.
    HAMB IMG_3433.jpg HAMB IMG_3431.jpg HAMB IMG_3585.jpg

    A little had to be milled off of the topof the spindle. Not sure about the scoop.
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2018
  16. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 10,980

    from oregon

    I'm with ya!
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  17. edcodesign
    Joined: Mar 30, 2007
    Posts: 3,251


    Great craftsmanship , good luck with the build.
  18. thommoina33
    Joined: Jun 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,040

    Alliance Member
    from australia
    Staff Member

    Without doubt one of the best builds on the H.A.M.B.
    Brilliant workmanship.

    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
    chryslerfan55 and kidcampbell71 like this.
  19. Rusty
    Joined: Mar 4, 2004
    Posts: 9,445


  20. Zeke 32
    Joined: Aug 31, 2009
    Posts: 161

    Zeke 32
    from Boston,Ma.

    Hotrodfab32, your fabrication skills are outstanding.
    1949*john likes this.
  21. Beautiful work!
  22. What mad fab skills! Something we mere mortals can only dream about.
    I've come to realize how much of life I wasted when I see your results.
    chryslerfan55 and Doctorterry like this.
  23. DaveyJonez
    Joined: Feb 20, 2006
    Posts: 368

    from Houston

  24. hotrodfab32
    Joined: Mar 23, 2010
    Posts: 46


    I've decided to make a few changes to the brakes. The backing plates are for 2" shoes. The front plates will get more modifications in the near future. A friend of mine that's helping with the car, Rodney, has a set of drums for 2-1/2" shoes that he has donated (at least for now). I've spent a lot of his money over the last few years helping him with cars. He drove 22 hrs. straight, got the car for me in AZ then straight through 22 hrs. back just to get a chance to spend a bunch of mine.

    With the fire wall and engine in place, the pedal location and shape was figured out. A 1/4" flange with 2 countersunk holes was welded to a piece of 1" round stock to use as a pivot shaft. A 1/2" thick boss with tapped holes was made for the shaft to bolt to. A hole the same shape was cut in the frame so the boss could be put in at an angle and still be at full thickness.

    Pieces of 1-3/8" round steel with 1" holes drilled through them are how the pedals started. A template for the pedal arms was made and two cut from 3/8" steel. They were left a little long and will be cut to length after being bent. A round curved pieces will be added to go through the firewall. Now the pedals could be mocked up with the MC to determine where everything needed to be.

    The hole below the pedal shaft is a sleeve that is welded to the backside of the wishbone mount before it is installed. A 2" long nut will be made so it is flush with the frame. Much easier when you need to remove it after the car is together.
    HAMB IMG_3543.jpg

    The MC mount was made from 1/4" and a plate to attach a brace for the end of the pedal shaft attached. I made the clutch linkage adjustable for a final ratio of 4, 5 or 6 to 1. A bell crank was made using 2 sleeves, tubing and 2 arms.
    HAMB IMG_3547.jpg

    After the pedals and bellcrank are welded and verified to work correctly, they were bored and oilite flanged bushings installed. The end of the clutch fork was cut off and tabs welded to it so it can be pulled instead of pushed.

    A bracket was made to bolt to the frame for one end of a 3/4" shaft that the bell crank will pivot on. The end of the shaft is drilled and tapped 1/2-20 to bolt it to the bracket. The shaft fits snug in the boss on the bracket for strength. the other end of the shaft has plate and gusset that bolts to threaded bungs in the x-member.
    HAMB IMG_3548.jpg

    1/2" solid stainless rod was drilled and tapped for 3/8" teflon lined rod ends.
    HAMB IMG_3563 2.jpg

    HAMB IMG_3559 2.jpg
    A clutch return spring was added to the bell crank. A brake return spring goes between the pedal and bracket that bolts to the front of the MC.
    HAMB IMG_4083.jpg
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2018
  25. Shadow Creek
    Joined: May 14, 2014
    Posts: 103

    Shadow Creek
    from Summit, TX

  26. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 10,980

    from oregon

    Some sleepless nights I'm thinking!
    Great detail.
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  27. SEAAIRE354
    Joined: Sep 7, 2015
    Posts: 82


    Almost a shame to cover up that all that detail,beautiful welds and metal prep with the body. And I think I’d have to just clear coat it. Also the overhead pic a few posts back also did something for me as well.

    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  28. Art work here. Beautifully done.
  29. hotrodfab32
    Joined: Mar 23, 2010
    Posts: 46


    I'm using a small Powermaster 55A alternator. There's not a whole lot of room down low to hide it. If you use one of these be sure to look at the amps at idle. They make small 55 and 75 amp alternators with either 7 or 30 amps at idle. IMG_3660.jpg IMG_3668.jpg IMG_3669.jpg IMG_3672.jpg IMG_4010.JPG IMG_4012.jpg IMG_4016.jpg
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2018

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