Finals week is over, and now I have 2 weeks off for Christmas and New Year. As of right now we're trying to fit the seat in and mount it more securely then it was before (it only had 2 small bolts in the front). We also need to put the passenger door back together with new weatherstripping, and then fix the throttle linkage. When we put the new carb on my grandpa and uncle agreed that the previous set up was very sketchy and it was not secure enough for their liking. Having a sticky throttle doesn't sound very enticing, so I'm not against getting something less Jerry rigged. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Happy New Year! So, after being sick for a week, my dad had a day off and we worked on the Falcon. We got the seat and seat belts in, and I cleared everything off of it and out from in front. We pulled it out for a test run, and made a left to get out of the yard when, RUUUUB. For whatever reason, the passenger front rubs when we make a left turn, but the driver's side is completely fine both ways. I've readjusted the camber, as it was pretty out of wack, and pushed the lower a arm back with the bar running from the front (strut bar?), but it still can't make a left turn. I don't know what happened. I don't have any pictures at the moment and it's too dark right now to take any. I'll take some in the morning. Is this a common issue with mustangs or falcons? Or is mine just being special lol. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That's what we where thinking too, but apparently you can rotate the shafts the a arms mount on, and it moves the entire thing forward or back. I'm curious what these guys where on designing this set up lol. If this doesn't work we're going to take it to check the frame. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Well, Falcons don't really have a "frame", unibody construction. I would look at what you changed since it was parked, if you didn't have that problem before. Didn't you put on wider tires? And disc brakes? Had you driven the car since you made those changes, or is this the first? Both those things can push your tires out further, resulting in the rub. Also, if you changed the springs and it now sits lower, that can cause rub as well. I left the 6 cylinder springs in my 63 when I dropped the 302 in, and lowered it so that the 205s up front wouldn't turn much. I swapped to a Mustang V8 spring to lift it up.
On a 1960 Falcon, the strut rod, between the lower control arm, and the body, is adjustable. It has a pair of nuts on each. By loosening one, and tightening the other, you can change both the caster, and wheelbase. Measure your wheelbase on both sides. Measure your strut rods on both sides. See if there is any variance.
Probably not the problem but the shock towers on those over the years can start to tip in with age. If you have installed a V-8 in it that would add some extra weight. Not aware of turning the shafts around for any adjustment. Just shims as far as I know.
Those front strut rods are NOT designed to "adjust" the camber on the front end!!!! It MUST be done with shims on the A-arms. By jacking it around with the front struts it puts everything in a bind. (Look at how it mounted to the lower arm) Might be hard to find an "old skool" front end shop that can adjust front ends. The fancy-smancy front end machines of today do NOT go back that far (1960-1963) + it won't work right with newer radial tires either. These cars were made when bias tires was all there was. Try 1/8 toe in......0 camber....and as much caster as possible. (2-3*) Opentracker.com has a BUNCH or front end stuff for Mustangs & Falcons......giv'em a look.
I definitely think one issue is that it has the 6-cylinder springs in it. I looked at open tracker and they were saying about how the shaft on the back of the a arm can be adjusted. I just did that with, seemingly, good effect, as well as changing the camber spacers to make the arm angle back more. I was reading on a mustang forum about how they did both of these things to help with tire fitment. Right now, we are wrestling with getting the shock and spring back in, but we're almost there. I will post on here what happens next, but I think we might be okay. If so, I am going to post a video of it driving around on YouTube , and I'll post it on here. Side note, I took out those gaudi chrome T handle things that hold on the valve covers, and replace them with normal bolts. Allot more open room in the engine bay now. In the process, I replaced the valve cover gaskets, and found out it has 289 heads. Yay! More compression lol Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So it still rubs. Not as bad, but still. We're going to take it to Firestone tomorrow and see about changing the front tires from 205 r65 to 205 r55, about a 10% decrease for the size of the side wall. It picks up way better now. It has a little stumble on the acceleration, but it's nothing that we cannot tune out. Brakes work brilliantly. I can definitely hear cam in that engine it's more then enough for that little car and definitely need those sub frame connectors. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Agreed. We swapped the 200ci six outa our ranchero for a 302. I did use the v8 springs for the swap and they are to strong. Meaning the front sits to high. Changing the tie rod angle to very steep. I did manage to get it aligned. Never had tire rub. But when launched at the drag strip the sway bar would bind on the strut rods. And she wouldn’t settle. So off with the sway bar is what we did. I don’t recommend it for a street use car. I’m planning on going back to six cylinder springs. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Also, if you haven't already, do a "Shelby drop". This does not lower the car. This procedure relocates the mounting position of the upper control arm, altering the camber curve, on body roll, and suspension cycling. This will give you better handling, any the possibility of obtaining negative camber wheel alignment. The price: one drill bit, a few hours, and a wheel alignment (which is already indicated). To get even better alignment, install Vario-Centric adjusters on the lower control arms. https://www.mustangsplus.com/1965-1966-Mustang-Vario-Centric-Camber-Kit.html Will those two modifications, you can get a modern alignment, for radial tires, on today's roads. The handling will be drastically improved, too. If you put a 1" anti-sway bar up front, you can have near sports car handling.
I've heard good things about the Shelby drop. Right now we took it to a shop for the mufflers and the alignment. If they can't get it to stop rubbing then we're going to go with a smaller sidewall ratio up front and that should fix it. I don't want to do the Shelby drop right now, as I just got it back together. I will definitely keep this in mind though if or when we have it back apart again (its going to come apart again sometime, I'm sure). I haven't seen that lower a arm set up before but it definitely looks promising. If or when I go for the Shelby drop I probably will go with that. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So as of now it's in the shop getting allighned and a new exhaust system put in. I got a call and they have to make a while new system. I had a feeling because there was allot of those little clamp things that hole up leaks. They're putting in some spin techs and an H pipes. If they can't get it to not rub then we're going to get a smaller aspect ratio for the sidewall. On a brighter note though, I don't think the rear wheels are rubbing. I didn't hear anything driving over to the shop. Also, I'll post a video of the new mufflers vs the old ones. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Just for reference Ford engine weights see post #3 https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?t=16071 If your 302 had aluminum heads and intake and headers it would probably be close in weight to the old 144 Six.
most guys on here must think you are made of money? There is a ton of parts available that will wake up your car on the cheap. 5.0 mustang factory headers. Tight fit and usually about $50 8.8 ranger rear axle. Cheap, strong and fits a falcon great! I used one in my 60. Home built frame connectors like someone posted! Great mod. Drive shaft loop might be a good idea. You don't need fancy heads, cam, or other race type shit to have a fun little car.
Right now I have an 8 in that should be fine for the time being. It has a drive shaft loop as well. I might go with the 5.0 heqe to s later on, they look like shorties. I think it's plenty quick. There's a studder when I first hit the throttle, so it might be old fuel. If not we need to tune it out with the carb or timing. I don't think we've had a timing light on it and my grandpa tuned it by ear, so there's probably something to be done with the timing. Either way, it gets up and moves, just driving it over to the shop I could tell, and it seems to have a little cam to boot. Frame connectors are definitely on the list to get done. I don't want to even mess with flex, quite frankly it scares me lol. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Either a 600 or a 650. I would look up the numbers right now but I don't have it on hand Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
No need to apologize. It’s all good. Might had the good ol Holley stumble off idle. My fix with out old one was go up two pump shot in the front. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/cfm-holley-1850-tech-applications/ Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I agree ^^^ and always hit the headers first. I like a 2.5" dual exhaust on a small block or if I run a single I run it 3" from the y pipe back.
I still have the stock logs on there at the moment. They're making the new exhaust out of 2.5in piping with an h pipe. To be honest, I might go with some headers later on, the tri y headers supposedly fit with the Z bar clutch linkages (that's what I have, idk the name before). As of now it's plenty fast, especially without a sub frame, so I think I'm going to go for that next as well as whatever pops up once I start driving it more Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You HAVE rolled the front fender lip haven't you?! EZ to do with a Louisville slugger or even a 2.5" piece of exhaust pipe. Stick it in between the tire and the fender and roll the car back and forth while letting the pipe/bat kinda spin in you hand. May take a few times rolling back and forth. Put a fat-ass friend on the front bumper if necessary! 6sally6 PS........that H pipe/x-pipe will kill the SOUND of the lumpy cam. No real gain in running an H-pipe other than kinda stabilizing the exhaust system.....jus say'in
At least I'm not alone in the issue, must be pretty common for an entire article to be dedicated to it! I think I'm going to try and tighten the spring on the accelerator pump to make it give fuel faster. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have not! I will look to see if it's possible, it might not be, because there's a fender mount right up front. I think that might be a problem. If I don't run into an issue with that, I think my grandpa has a fender flare tool somewhere. That would be a really easy fix. I'm getting it back tomorrow, so I will have to take a look. I'm surprised I didn't think of that Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Oh yeah!!!......Standard thing on Mustangs and Falcons too. They were so tire size limited front and back. Front of wheel well prolly won't be a problem mainly the upper part. 225-60-15 fit mine (M-word) on the front & rear after rolling the wells!! 6sally6
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