The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ccain, Oct 12, 2019.
New center caps.
I like the white letter tires but I was born in 1982 and growing up the coolest car was a Toyota Pickup with BFG AllTerrain T/A’s.
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Okay, well I've made some progress. I got her road worthy and safe, and she's been shaken down. I've put about 300 miles on the truck since and everything checks out.
Took yesterday off and worked on a few things. The door kick panel carpet or whatever had fallen off at some point. Went to Lowe's and bought some thin, cheap indoor/outddor carpet that kinda-sorta matched and cut out dome kick panels from some masonite I had laying around. Turned out decent and cleaned things up nicely.
Learned this trick years ago. Got tired of spooling up half a yard of polyester fiber on the end of my drill and ruining what I was working on. Now, I just punch and go.
I can live with that.
Tonight was all about tucking that dog rocket front bumper.
Pulled off the bumper and cut 2 1/2 inches off the frame horns, re drilled the bracket holes, splashed on a little paint and voilà. Looks pretty good for a free mod.
Now I just have to wipe off my grubby hand prints.
Next stop, we're gonna drop it a little.
As she sets now:
Where we're headed:
That's all I've got for now.
Very nice!, I'll be tucking my bumper as well when I get around to it...
Nice work so far.
I used a pair of early Mustang arm rests on my do1960 doors.
For me I did not trim the doors, so just purchased a red pair and fitted them.
Mine is the Custom Cab which originally came with a drivers door arm rest only.
I also added electric windows that was a big improvement.
Any tips on tweaking them to work a little better? Mine roll down just fine but take a fair amount of time to roll up. I don't see anything binding. Everything that needs it is greased and the and the window felts are seated correctly. I'm adding a lock cylinder to the driver's door this weekend, maybe while I'm in there I'll root around a little better to see what's up. But, any insight would be greatly appreciated.
I purchased a universal fit set of arm and motors that once home found that they did not fit any darn thing.
I persisted and made adapter plates for inside the doors and used the screw holes that were used by the stock window winders, since I did not want to turn my doors into Swiss cheese.
I did have some issues finding a way to get all those wires from the A pillar to my door since the swing is different to regular vehicles and after market conduits did not seem to work out.
If I had my time over I think I would have used the vertical screw type motors and purchase a pair of those dummy winder arms that actually work as an up/down switch.
Some of the stuff I've done can be found in this thread I started a number of years ago.
Thanks. Yeah, the wires on mine are all just kinda hanging there between the doors covered with loose, sticky electrical tape. 'Been thinking about getting a screen door spring and running the wires through it from the cab to the door and securing it on both ends with some sort of flange.
But, yeah, I did manage to find out that the window tracks were binding on both sides because the screws that hold the track to the door were loose. The whole thing would shift and bind on the roll-up. So, that's fixed.
Today I put a lock cylinder on my driver's door.
Made a template, cut a hole. Pretty straight forward install.
That is funny, as my 1960 has locks on both sides.
It is a custom cab, not sure if that makes a difference!
I wish I'd known about you earlier, as I use to spent a lot of time a few years back in Beaumont CA that really ain't that far from Temecula CA.
Would have been a good chance to compare notes etc...
Yeah, mine is a regular old "lock it from the sidewalk" f100 so, no drivers door lock.
Well, if you ever find yourself back this way for any reason, look me up and we'll talk shop and hang out or something.
Thanks for the offer, I could be around in your neck of the woods in mid 2020 but right now it is still a long shot.
Keep up the good work with lots of pic's for us to see.
Went grocery shopping with the wife this morning and found these nice little stainless steel cat food bowls for $1.78 each.
I thought the rims of these things looked about the right size to use as trim rings for my tail lights. Because... you know, I'm a cheap bastard and love a bit of a challenge.
Brought 'em home, cut the bottoms out of the bowls and cleaned up the cut side of the rims with a file.
A little 3M trim tape and there ya go. $3.50 trim rings. The ass end needed a little bling to break things up anyway. I can live with 'em.
Man, they are sweet, keep the name and address of that store for when I am over.
I think the door lettering would look good based on the example you showed. I am also really digging the stainless trim rings you made for the tail lights - nice work! The wheel center caps also really help to finish of the look as well.
That is a nice looking little truck. Enjoy it!
Great idea on the light trim rings.
Damn it, now I have to go shopping for cat bowls...
Cop car Crown Vic chassis. Easy swap drops the truck ,makes them handle .
My old Ford shop truck . Sold it for way more than I paid for it. Cab corners were the first repair I did to the truck. The guy I sold it to did the chassis swap. I liked it simple 6 cylinder 3 on the tree.
Yeah a Crown Vic swap, is neat if that's what you're goin' for. There's a really nice looking '60 over on the Utoob that is pretty slick and the guy's done a LOT of good work on that old truck. That Panther platform is stout, especially the P71's. As for me, I don't see me yanking anything out from under this ol' gal's skirt in the foreseeable future.
So... let's see. 'Started trying to tidy things up under the hood a bit. Holy hell, THAT HOOD! I'm pretty sure it makes up like one third of the total mass of the front of the damned truck. No, seriously, it weighs a freakin' ton. Not to mention, as you're closing it, those 60 year old springs unload (about 9 inches away from the latch). Once gravity takes over, if you don't have a handle on it, BOOM.
Happened to me when I first went to look at the truck. 'After a foot of my ass unraveled trying to lift the damned thing, I went to put the hood back down and BOOM! The guy just winks and says "she likes ya."
Anyway... Into the gaping maw I go again.
Oh, yeah. Don't think for one minute that I don't prop-rod the hell outta that behemoth when I have to be under it.
'Never have been a fan of those finned, aluminum valve covers. So they, along with that chrome breather had to go. Plus, everything needs a good scrub and the wiring needs a good tidying up. I really want a clean, almost factory, no frills appearance under the hood.
Found a nice old Fairlane air cleaner over on the dark web... wait... or was it ebay? I get those two confused all the time. Anyway, I cleaned it up a little and painted a fresh set of OEM style valve covers.
Also sourced a lid and gave it a spit shine. The air cleaner's base is the right size to fit over an Edelbrock 4bbl but I had to order a one inch spacer to get the thing up off the linkage, as well as, a longer threaded rod.
Still a long way to go, and a lot to clean up, but it's getting there.
That's all I got for tonight.
Yeah, I did a lot of the little things that aren't seen, but give me piece of mind.
I narrowed my battery box in the engine bay as it was just way too wide.
I rebuilt my 9" diff with new bearings, shocks and changed the gears to 3.54:1.
I upgraded the seat belts that were in it to retractable.
I modified my spare wheel carrier to accept a modern wider wheel and tire.
I realise your gas tank is now where the spare wheel used to go, so I guess you will sit it up in the side of the bed which was the other option during days gone by.
I put an over flow bottle on my radiator and electric windows as I mentioned previously.
Keep up the good work.
Everything you've done mirrors what I would want to do if I still had my '59. I recall seeing some door jamb conduits made out of sheet metal that curved to match the arc of the door swing but also were loose mounted so they had some fudge factor built in; can't remember exactly what kind of car but probably 'Murrican made. The cabs on the 57-60 trucks seem roomier than the next generation... I had a '65 longbed and it didn't seem to have enough room for three up in the seat, where my '59 had what seemed to be generous room.
I just remembered where I saw those conduits: suicide door Lincolns. Might copy the concept using aluminum tubing bent in an arc? Anchor one end in a rubber bushing/grommet for give?
That battery box does take up a lot of real estate. I need to get the existing battery tied down properly. It's held there with a bungie.
I'm on the fence with the spare carrier. If I were ever going to stock this thing up and throw some whitewalls on it, maybe. As for now, I'm gonna depend on AAA if I pop a tire while I'm out and about. That reminds me. I have a slow leak in that right front tire.
I've been on the hunt for a nifty glass jar to use as an overflow. There's an over-the-counter plastic one on there now. Fugly as hell.
My wife calls the seat in my '60 "the couch". Just for the hell of it, and so I could reply to this, I measured the truck from door panel to door panel and my living room couch. The truck measures 5'-2". The couch measures 5"-11". So... she ain't wrong. The wife just stared as I measured the couch while she was sitting on it. I'm pretty sure she is convinced that I have developed early onset dementia. But yeah... roomy truck.
Cool! Imma check e'm out. Thanks for the heads up!
I had an idea, I vaguely mentioned earlier, about a screen door spring. I found this really nice, large diameter spring at the hardware store. It's super flexible and I think I have enough room in those door hinge cavities to run them to the door. I'm gonna cut down some large diameter lamp cord conduit to use as connectors on the door side. I'm kinda making it up as I go. We'll have to see how it goes.
I've been continuing to clean things up under the hood and, for a driver, I think it's shaping up nicely. It's starting to look like somebody owns it.
'Been putting some miles on her.
All of the engine oil leaks seem to be buttoned up. Might have to look at the trans. The front pump seal is spittin' a few drops here and there. But here's where I have decisions to make. The original builder either got ahead of himself or really liked making more work than needed. The transmission crossmember is welded to the frame. There is no way to get that trans out without yankin' the motor.
I'm thinking I'm just gonna support the tranny, die-grind the crossmember out, and weld some tabs to it so it can be bolted on and taken off.
Also falling into the "Why do people do this?" category:
This is the second California vehicle I've owned where someone shot the exhaust straight down before the axle.
I mean, to each his own, and what not but, IMHO, all it does is gas you in traffic. Not to mention the murder inducing resonant groan throughout the cabin in first gear. Jesus.
So, this is one of those times where "while yer down there" applies. Gonna have to drop the exhaust to do the crossmember anyway, so I figure next week I'll get happy with my die-grinder, fix the tranny and run new exhaust. That is if the new gun for my welder shows up when it's supposed to.
Those brown streaks you see on the muffler... yeah, that's under the very front of the bed where the old gas tank vent tube came out.
Never in all my 50 years of wrenching did I see a truck crying for chromes (chrome reverse).. Wheel Vintiques Series 64 15 x 7 4.25 back space...
Hmmm. You might be onto something.
If I decide to go that route, I also like the setup on this one:
Never parting with the slots, but an having an alternate set of wheels would be cool to change out from time to time.
Loved em on my truck... but I love the slots
Its like those wheels were made for the 50s and 60s Ford trucks... Especially with that Red!! I try to put them on everything..
Summit sells them, there called Wheel Vintiques Series 64. If you buy a set, make sure you have them put on a tire balancer to check the run out. Some people were having issues with some of there wheels.. Rally America used to sell them too. I bought a set off them that were perfect..
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