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6 volt to 12 volt ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by lorodz, Nov 11, 2012.

  1. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    i got the 50 ford with the 8ba in my car running all 6 volts. i did the search but cant find what im looking for. im going to switch the 6 volt generator out for a 1 wire gm alt. im also going to switch the 6 volt coil out for a 12 volt one. i know i need to switch out the headlights, tail lights and interior and dash lights and push button ignition switch also. can someone tell me about the pertronix distributor parts how to install the pick up so i can complete this. or is there another way to run the distributor? or can i just change to a 12v condensor? im stumped on this one
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2012
  2. DualQuad55
    Joined: Mar 5, 2005
    Posts: 1,379

    DualQuad55
    Member
    from Epsom, NH

    Most important is that you will need to convert over to negative ground. You will also need to convert your gauges or more affordably add voltage reducers for each of them. Then some guages will require to be wired opposite of how they are currently to move in the correct direction with neg ground.
    Dont forget the starter-many folks have kept the orig 6v starter without any issues running on 12v. But keep in mind there was a reason the auto manufacturers made them differently for the 6v vs 12v setups. Amperage is as important as voltage!
    The ignition will require a 12v coil and correct ohm ballast resistor. Typically I use the Mallory pn 700. However, you might be wise to contact GMCBubba and ask his professional advice.
     
  3. blackrd
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 32

    blackrd
    Member
    from Illinoize

    Speedway used to sell kits for the guages, basically a resistor kit.
    All your switches are ok as is, they will carry half the amps as before.
    The dizzy i dunno.
     
  4. Maybe a voltage regulator swap too
     
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  5. DualQuad55
    Joined: Mar 5, 2005
    Posts: 1,379

    DualQuad55
    Member
    from Epsom, NH

    Single wire alternator has internal voltage regulator. If using a 12v generator, a 12v regulator would be needed.
     
  6. deucemac
    Joined: Aug 31, 2008
    Posts: 989

    deucemac
    Member

    I just finished a '50 coupe for a friend and used a '59 Ford IVR as I always do to reduce the voltage to the gauges. They can be bought from NAPA and less expensive from Mac's and other early Ford parts houses. Ford used a 6 volt gauges from Model A days up to 1985 (except for "56). I have also used more modern Ford gauges without problems in 6 volt systems by changing the face plate and needle to the original one off the old gauge. The King-Seely type gauge works on heat deflection caused by variations in resistance and NOT voltage or polarity. An IVR produces a pulsed 6 volt signal that does the job very well. Runz and others require a unit for EACH gauge. A Ford IVR is wired with power to the IVR and the gauges parallel wired from there. The only hitch in this is the Ammeter It is an inductive type gauge and is only valid for 30 amps max. Over that and you peg the gauge I haven't hurt one yet but it's not the best way to go. Maybe someone else can chime in on how to make it work better.
     
  7. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,758

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    Not really

    [​IMG]
     
  8. 48fordor
    Joined: Jan 16, 2009
    Posts: 137

    48fordor
    Member
    from York, PA

    A single LM7806 regulator will work for all the gauges if you heatsink it to let it reach its 1A rating. Think of it as a build your own Runtz circuit.

    On my '48 I kept the factory starter and interior light switches by having them activate relays to get around the + to - ground issue. My original headlight switch was bad and I used one of the generic "streetrod" style switches, which sure looks like a '70s Chevy pickup switch when you really look at it. This way I kept the dash light dimmer/interior lights on function on the new switch. I changed to a newer starter solenoid so that required the relay on the starter switch. When I rewired a made a metal plate to hold the fuse block under the dash and gave room to add relays to it via a set of predrilled and tapped holes.
     
  9. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    Can I get part numbers for the regulator I need also I guess I can run the same 6 volt coil and points how about the condensor
     
  10. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    Or even a parts list of things to change with model numbers
     
  11. deucemac
    Joined: Aug 31, 2008
    Posts: 989

    deucemac
    Member

    Ford is very different construction than SW ammeters
     
  12. meghafranc
    Joined: Nov 12, 2012
    Posts: 4

    meghafranc
    Member
    from new york

    Speedway used to sell kits for the guages[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  13. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,758

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    You are absolutely correct the amperage never touches the gauge The wire merely passes through a hoop on the back of the gauge. No connection at all to the gauge.
     
  14. 48fordor
    Joined: Jan 16, 2009
    Posts: 137

    48fordor
    Member
    from York, PA

    Lorodz - you are going to change from pos to neg ground, right?

    I still prefer the lower RPM cut-in of a normal alternator, so I didn't use a 1-wire. I used a 3G from a '94-'95 Mustang. Use the diagram found here: http://www.bcbroncos.com/3g.pdf Don't forget the fuse. I had the wide truck/bus/tractor belt on my car so I needed to have a custom pulley made.

    Starter solenoid from a '78 F150

    Mopar style Accel coil, because I had one, with the ballast resistor from a late '60s Mopar. Condenser is from Chevy Blazer with points, something early '70s. I ran the original condenser for a while but it failed not long after the conversion. I'd suggest adding a 12V version during the conversion. Swapping polarity means changing the coil around.

    I added relays for interior lights and starter as detailed in an earlier post.

    Change all the bulbs. Look up your existing bulb number and find a 12V version with the same base.

    I skipped the ammeter and used a voltmeter.
     

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