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59 ford f100 lowering

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fuse box, Jan 1, 2014.

  1. Fuse box
    Joined: Jan 1, 2014
    Posts: 28

    Fuse box
    Member

    My god I hope I put this in the correct section section....I'm confused!

    I've got myself a 59 ford f100 .. I need to lower it pretty bad , altitude sickness is killing me..

    I'm looking for a cost effective method of sorting this ...

    Bags are great but notching the chassis so much is too time consuming, I just bought the truck to drive it .

    Are we talking drop spindles or lowering blocks on the springs? I would be grateful of the benefit of your experience

    Cheers guys
    Griff
     
  2. Rookie1
    Joined: Apr 5, 2009
    Posts: 63

    Rookie1
    Member

    use the search box first, there are plenty 59 projects here. good luck
     
  3. Fuse box
    Joined: Jan 1, 2014
    Posts: 28

    Fuse box
    Member

    This looks like a bloody mine field....

    Really honestly is notching the chassis at the back the only way?

    And a drop axle at the front??
    I've search loads this forum and other and my heads spinning...

    Getting hold of this kind stuff in the the uk is a nightmare...

    I'm thinking dropped spindles???


    Thanks for your response rookie...your a gent!
     
  4. Rob68
    Joined: Jun 16, 2011
    Posts: 495

    Rob68
    Member

    Join the 57-60 group here. All the info you need. Lots of threads also. PM me, gotta go now but I can give you some info later.
     

  5. No such thing as drop spindles. Leafs are on top of the axle front and back. Dropped axle is best way for front, and if you want to avoid rear frame notch, then get flatter leafs for rear, ie de-arched. If you flip axle on top on leafs, you will need a notch for suspension travel. If you put front axle on top of leafs, it will have bad bumpsteer and also will have oil pan interference. That is the story in condensed form.
     
  6. verde742
    Joined: Aug 11, 2010
    Posts: 5,579

    verde742
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. a veteran died today

    listen to this person, Get a book about front ends and learn parts,
     
  7. luckystiff
    Joined: Mar 20, 2002
    Posts: 1,465

    luckystiff
    Member

    gonna preach it some more..........

    Jaguar XJ. pretty common donor. can be made to bolt in like the stock application. weld straight to the frame. or if you really want it low like i did notch it into the frame a coupla inches.

    if you flip the rear axle over the leaf springs and weld the jag crossmember straight to the frame up front you'll probably end up with a 5"ish drop all around. if you fab brackets and bolt it in like it was in the jag you're probably looking more like a 4" drop up front...ken....
     
  8. low budget
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 5,564

    low budget
    Member
    from Central Ky

    I have taken some leafs out of each spring pack(every other one or so) on older trucks to get a pretty good drop but Im not sure about the 59s,It should work and Its free if you can.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2014
  9. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Just to be funny about your problem, small wheelks and no suspension will get you down low but not worth doing.

    A good compromise with the tried and proven is about the best you can hope for and have a decent ride.

    Listen to the guys who have done it.

    In your neck of the woods Jag stuff should be your best bet.

    Using Jag also provides you will disc brakes and power steering if you so choose.

    Happy new year...
     
  10. Fuse box
    Joined: Jan 1, 2014
    Posts: 28

    Fuse box
    Member

    Thanks guys
    Jag stuff is still pretty rare and expensive in the UK and welding clips Into the front is further than I wanna go...
    I'm a motorcycle guy for a living so wrenching isn't a problem it having the space and time to weld in front ends , if I'm being realistic, isnt gonna happen!

    A dropped axle sounds like it could be the future from what I read.. And flipping the rear doesn't sound too much of a trauma ... I've done this on Vw caddy pickups in the past easy!

    I believe " sids "is a place to contact for a kit??

    Ps I've built many European cars over my years in this game but this is my first pick up so go easy on me guys...

    If I can. Avoid the notching I'd be well keen for this.....
     
  11. Fuse box
    Joined: Jan 1, 2014
    Posts: 28

    Fuse box
    Member

    I'm listening my friend thankyou...

    Is there a kit You know of or somewhere I can find that will help me achieve this
    ??
    I'm grateful to ya!!
    I'll start a build thread from the uk when I start the job! I promise!

    Griff
     
  12. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    I also have the same year pickup and have posted a few things I've done to mine.

    Welding in an IFS is nos bigger deal as it sounds.
    I used an Industrial Chassis Inc setup and it was easy
    I tacked it all in and then got an accredited welding guy to call by one weekend and it was mostly done.
    However, a Jag IFS may take more effort, I am not sure.
    Biggest issue for me was disposing of the old front end and storing the hood while I was working on it, guess it could have gone in the box.

    Take a look thru these threads and see if you can find some inspiration and wet your apetite.

    My build was not meant to be a low project so forgive me for that.


    Feel free to PM me regarding any questions that you may have...

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=366906
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=481492
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=795932
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=663175
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=445614
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=775868
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2014
  13. luckystiff
    Joined: Mar 20, 2002
    Posts: 1,465

    luckystiff
    Member

    70s/80s(even early 90s xjs) jag xj should not be hard to find in the uk.

    The jag unit BOLTS IN the original app and can do so in your truck with a few fabbed brackets. bolted in your not gonna get as much drop but it's a pretty decent drop.

    welded in could be done in a coupla dedicated weekends pretty easy. either way pulling all the old stuff out will take about as long as putting the jag stuff in.

    jag swaps have been popular in the uk for a LONG time. they knowledge is there..

    the a jag ifs/irs swap group here that may shed alot of light for you...ken....
     
  14. Fuse box
    Joined: Jan 1, 2014
    Posts: 28

    Fuse box
    Member

    thanks for taking the time to sort this out for me ken!

    believe me jag stuff is getting scares in the uk...most of it rotted out with cars before they were even bought out the showroom! heheh!

    I simply dont have the space to weld in a new front clip of any make ..its gotta be bolt on all the way for me...

    are there kits available from suppliers?? ive read of a place called sids??

    thanks to everyone for steering me in the right direction lads..im grateful!

    Griff
     
  15. captain scarlet
    Joined: Jun 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,415

    captain scarlet
    Member
    from Detroit

    Hey dude.

    Join here and ask the same questions

    www.nsra.org.uk

    Great guys lots of help


    Singlefingerspeedshop.com. Detroit
     
  16. Fuse box
    Joined: Jan 1, 2014
    Posts: 28

    Fuse box
    Member

    yeah man thankyou very much!!

    ill have a look!
    Cheers
    Griff
     
  17. Blake84
    Joined: Feb 4, 2012
    Posts: 738

    Blake84
    Member

    I got your message and now see you are going the cost effective route. Get a SIDS drop axle and also tie rod extensions. He will recommend d 3 inches and not doing the 4 inch but that's your choice. While your doing it I would replace king pins and tie rod ends while your down there. After axle is in if you don't like the height you can get reverse eyed leafs or mono leafs or try removing a leaf or 2.

    The rear mono leafs or reverse eyed leafs. Flipping the axle over the leafs in the rear will def get you low but yes you will need to notch frame. I didn't right away and bottomed out constantly. It's not that much work to do at all. Make sure you box the frame around where you notch it to reinforce it. If you have more questions feel free to ask I have been to hell and back with my 59 but she's sitting pretty now second picture down is side drop axle 3 inches and flipped rear no notch

    [​IMG]


    SIDS axle flipped rear
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Fuse box
    Joined: Jan 1, 2014
    Posts: 28

    Fuse box
    Member

    That's bitchin stance man I love it!
    So whose Sid??

    I need an 3" over front axle
    Drop links
    Shock mounts???
    King pins replacement
    Tie rod ends

    M gonna have to notch the chassis ... This is cool I can do this!

    This make sense..??

    Forgive my daft questions ..I'm super new to this kinda car...

    Cheers
    Griff

    Ps.i promise a build thread!
     
  19. Blake84
    Joined: Feb 4, 2012
    Posts: 738

    Blake84
    Member

    Yes that makes sense. You may not need new king pins and tie rods but you will want to know prior to the install otherwise you will be doing the install practically twice. SIDS is a company or guy that makes drop axles. I believe they are 300-400 plus $100 core charge. I assume because of where you are located sending the axle to him and back would prob be pointless but I have no clue. So say $500 worst case will get you the drop axle and tie rod extensions are under $100 I think. No clue on shipping international because I have never had to ask that Question haha. Shock mounts I believe don't change but if your dropping car maybe smaller shock so they are not compressed? That might be a question for someone else I don't remember what I did. Def notch the chassis There is a possibility you will have to cut small hole in bed if you go too low. The differential May hit the bed when traveling. Hope this info helps


     
  20. Fuse box
    Joined: Jan 1, 2014
    Posts: 28

    Fuse box
    Member

    your a gentleman mate, thanks very much....ill hassle you no more!

    Cheers

    griff
     
  21. I lowered the front with a Sid's drop axle and removing the bottom leaf and reversing the eyes on the top spring. In the rear I flipped the axle c-notched the frame. The rear was a too low and the pumpkin was hitting the floor and I didn't want a hole in the bed floor so I flipped the rear spring hangers to pick it up about 2". I saw several posts on here about how terrible they drive. I think that people are not addressing the drag link angle with the drop axle. It took allot of heating and bending but my link is parallel to the ground and this thing sails down the highway like a new car. Another thing that may have helped is a 6 degree shim that Sid said he installs in every axle install he does.
     

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  22. Itchy
    Joined: Mar 15, 2006
    Posts: 164

    Itchy
    Member

    That's one fine Ford you have there Blake84.
     
  23. Fuse box
    Joined: Jan 1, 2014
    Posts: 28

    Fuse box
    Member

    Can someone explain reversing the spring to me please??

    Like I said I'm completely new to this thanks in advance!

    To all you guys that have helped, suggested and pm'd me with suppliers and advice I'm mega grateful..choices have been made and a plan of attack had been formulated!!

    . This is a top forum!! Thanks

    Griff
     
  24. For my 60 I just want it low not slammed...I would like to use bolt on parts so that if I ever decide to put it back to stock it won't be much of an issue. For the front I will be getting a dropped axle from "sidds" how much of a drop? I'm not sure. For the rear suspension I'm not sure what to do yet.
     
  25. trevorhood
    Joined: Sep 14, 2013
    Posts: 16

    trevorhood

  26. 55 Mercury
    Joined: Mar 18, 2006
    Posts: 888

    55 Mercury
    Member

    I seen your post. I'm Sid from www.droppedaxles.com. A dropped 3" axle is $300 exchange. Tie rod drops are $60pr. For the back I've been not flipping the rear end to the top of the springs. What I've been doing is taking the front rear spring hanger and flipping it half a turn and bolting it back to frame. I also move the hanger to the top of the frame. Then I take the main leaf spring and reverse the eyes by re-arching the spring. I take out the over load springs. Doing all of this I usually get a 5 to 5-1/2" drop without having to c-notch the frame or cut the bed floor out for pumpkin clearance. When done you also want to check out your pion angle and correct it if needed. If you need more drop you can put on longer rear shackles.
     
    Bass likes this.
  27. 61dailyf100
    Joined: Sep 30, 2013
    Posts: 145

    61dailyf100
    Member

    Any pics Sid, of how it looks ? I think I want to try your method in the rear of my 61 f100.


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  28. Fuse box
    Joined: Jan 1, 2014
    Posts: 28

    Fuse box
    Member

    yeah this sounds like the business...

    ive still got no idea what reversing the eyes on the springs is either....

    i will be with you to purchase the axle but as im in the uk i dont have an exchange..

    how much more would you charge me?

    thanks for responding, im grateful to ya!
    Cheers
    Griff
     
  29. Rynothealbino
    Joined: Mar 23, 2009
    Posts: 185

    Rynothealbino
    Member

    Reversing the eyes of the spring simply means flipping the main leaf upside down. In stock orientation the spring eyes go up, so the bolt that attaches it to the chassis is roughly a half inch above the top of the spring. If the top leaf is flipped upside down, the eyes are now go down roughly a half inch, so that right there drops you an inch. Normally you re-arch the spring back to stock. Do a search on reversing leaves and you will find a few threads. Me and a buddy did one a few months back. Instead of re-arching the main leaf we simply flipped it and bolted the pack back together, so the arch of the main leaf was fighting against the leaves below it. We had to do it a few times to get the pack right, but if I remember right we ended up with essentially a stock pack underneath a upside down main leaf. If you do this be very careful. We had to assemble the packs with the help of a bench vice and some c-clamps, and we made sure to keep our hands clear of the pack as mush as possible just in case something happened. Anyways, just doing this put the truck on its bump stops, so we took a 3/8" drill to the bump stops and put a few holes in a honeycomb pattern to soften them up. Pretty ghetto, but it actually does not ride too bad. In the rear we took out every other leaf and all of the overloads and this dropped it about 4-5". Just make sure the leaves are all staggered down as you go. If you just put a few really long leaves in the leverage will cause the pack to bend into an s-shape over time. I like to leave the stock second leaf in packs when I can just to help support the ends of the spring better. Try to keep the spacing between the ends of the springs as consistent as possible as you go down, don't leave out the short leaves at the bottom, including the very bottom stock one that is probably only a foot long. That little guy does tons to help the life of a spring pack. The other option in the rear is to cut out the rivets and move the mounts up a few inches, drill new holes, and reattach with grade 8 bolts. The method we used lowered the truck 3" in front, and 4-5" in back and only cost us 8 U-Bolts and a weekends worth of work. We never even took the main leaf out of the rear. Cheap and lazy maybe, but effective.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2014

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