The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by J.Fishbeck, Nov 10, 2011.
Get on the Elky man, I'm jonesin here!
Whittle!, Man. I had to spin my stock and use dividers to mark my holes, spoiled brat you our . Looking good man.
Even my uncles yelling at me, I'm taking too long. I will be back on it this week!
Hahaha, yeah I fall into more shit. Eric has offered to tutor me, too. I have to take advantage of his offers. Thanks for the good words
JJ I had a great time with you & and Jim Sig on the mystery tour yesterday.
It was a good time. Cool cars and nice scenery. It was fun hanging out with you guys!
Case you missed it..
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ByYMTi7T_x0?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
ha what a cool video!!!
I thought so, too. Reminds me of the films they used to show in school, but with much better content!
J. nice to meet you on the salt.
We shall meet again, my friend! Not soon enough, though.. I already look forward to going back.
Well, I'm wishing I was going to World Finals. Wouldn't be the responsible thing to do, so I bought a 4spd instead. I have a line on some 30-31 qtr panels an a firewall. Anyways - pics
I was told the six splines that go around the input shaft, signify it's strength. IDK! Saying more splines = the stronger it is. Not saying the splines make it stronger, it's wut they represent. Anyone care to enlighten me?
I'm not going to start changing ratios, before I run it. I have things I want to do, when it gets opened back up. 3rd needs to be 1.23
^^^^^ Seems theres something going on here. The gear ratio does not mach the stamping on the case.
Found this info online......
Count the cross-grooves on the input shaft. The input shaft enters the engine at the front of the transmission. Since there are many gear-ratio variations of the T10, there are identifying grooves cut across the clutch spine of the input shaft. According to Drivetrain.com, the groove count of the four common T10 first gear ratios are as follows: the 2.43 first gear ratio has two grooves, the 2.64 first gear has three, the 3.42 has five and the 2.88 first gear ratio has six. The gear ratios ultimately identify the T10 in question.
Read more: How to Identify a Borg-Warner T-10 Transmission | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7699129_identify-borgwarner-t10-transmission.html#ixzz27WhAmYgJ
Jay, this is a useless site. See new link I placed below.
Mar 7 2003, Russ at Stick Shift went through it. He marked the ratios on the case. Hmmm..
Here's some T10 info http://www.pontiacpower.org/BW.htm
The San Bernardino Compliment
Taco guy: When did you 'buy' that 55 Chevy?
Me: Actually, we built it in the mid-80's
TG: I hate you
so when are you getting back on the elky were all waiting for some killer updates jj
Fixing stupid things that should've been done the first time. There are solid gasket seals, that should've been replaced, when I was doing the 700r4. Some of the planetary gears had blued from heat, so I replaced them. Later, during research I found out why it happened. So I'm redoing that. I'm still waiting on the tail lites for the chair I'm doing. What filler rod do you use for welding pot metal?. Anyway, I'm going to be back on it, now that the weather is nice out.
gotcha ,cool sounds good , i bought some stuff called muggy weld rod , for potmetal ,i havent used it yet , because all the stuff on the wagon that i thought was pot metal wasnt and i just tig it up like aluminum . what pot metal are you welding up ????????
That muggy weld has to be kept cool when polished and copper plated. Or else it's just gonna melt away. So a jeweler has low current copper set ups. That's what DrJ explained to me. I am doing 58 Bel Air t/lite hsings. The one keeps coming back with pits in the copper. I have to have them back by the 15th, to deliver the chair in time with the lights wired up, to work. That's why i was hoping you were using a different filler rod, so you could pass on the info.
Oh I see , yah I'm not sure of any others . Have you asked maby a Crome shop to see if they might use something different . It's a shot .
I don't know if they will tell me what they're using. Trade secrets, are sometimes just that. My welding supply shop might could have sum infos for me. I will have to check
#619 shows the solid seal, that's being changed. Without changing it, I'm asking for pressure issues. It's more than likely what caused the heat problem, in the first place.
I need to port match the intake maniflold to the heads, amd put in a little more time for the finishing work.. then send 'em off to the machine shop. I un-shouded the intake valve, for the 2.02s. So now they need to cc the chambers. And that's one less thing to do on my 55. The hydraulic clutch is going to be fun.. I'll be figuring it out as I go. Good thing for instructions
Finally.. and they're puurdy!
You are a busy man, my friend! Looks like fun!
Glad I finally got the bezels back. No more unknown! It's raining here. Killing me since I work outside.. fun fun!
I did a lot of reflecting today
Wired up and installed
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