Projects 59 chrysler newyorker custom build

At least we got the hood thier and got it covered for now

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Can't wait to get it going

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looking good!

 

Hi Brandon.Looking good so far.Things do happen to screw up the works.BTDT.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Just getting one flash when you turn the key on and one when you turn it off? I have that problem now. Has been suggested that the orange box is faulty.

 

I am considering going back to points lpl

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. Installed a chrome box & fired right up.

 

A Crome box?

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The Mopar Performance electronic ignition kit comes with an ignition box colored Orange. It lasted 2-3 yrs. The stock box is considered more reliable & comes chromed from the parts house!

 

I have no idea what this special coil you have is or does, but with the Mopar electronic ignition you need to have the resistor or you will fry the ignition boxes, they don't like a 12 volt feed very long. A spark when you first turn on the key, and a spark when you turn off the key indicates either a bad resistor (which you say you don't have), a bad ignition box ground, a bad ignition box or incorrect wiring (in order of most frequent failures, though your wiring may move towards the top). I used to carry an extra resistor in my glove box. The last few years, the quality of the ignition boxes has been so bad, I started caring an extra one of those with me as well. That ignition box has to have a good ground. If where its mounted is painted, you need to add a ground wire under one of the mounting bolts and run it to the negative battery terminal, or remove the paint under the mounting surface. BTW, I used the cheap aftermarket chrome box. Unless your racing where the rpm is consistently above 3,000, the Mopar Performance box will get too hot and will melt down, they were intended for racing, not street use.

If you really don't want the electronic ignition, get a point distributor and install it, connect the pig tail to the negative side of the coil and go. Then you get to replace the currently available crappy new points and condenser every year. The new points may not last that long without the correct resistor either. Gene

 

I bought the kit ...after buying everything separate more than once lol I found out summit sold me the wrong distributor and coil to start off with at least they are letting me return it ...I have gone over the wiring several times and tried different box's and coils and distributors ... I cleaned all areas for a good ground the only thing left is the ignition switch ..and I got the 3rd box in the kit I still need to install

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Well we got it running went through a hand full of balist resistors from the parts store and they were all junk but the summit one seems to be holding up and everything is wired right I had a friend's dad that is a Mopar guy go through it ... looking like I need a new ignition switch and the only other issue is my push button linkage and how to get it set properly after re installing the transmission ...I think we just need to a just it a little and should be good ... I got alot of little things to go through on the car like finished bleeding the brakes but they do work and I get pedal finally and the car will be home today and my wedding is august 9th I'm hoping to at least drive it there for that and then the car show the next day then just put it in the garage and start work again for next summer

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Not messing with it again till next Summer? Or working on it with a goal of fun next Summer?

 

Working on it to get it 100% complete next summer and just taking my time

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How-do Brandon,

1st, congrats on your marriage! Wow have you been busy, just figuring out this new HAMB and just caught up with your build. Your Chrysler is amazing, I sure like your taste in autos. I have been flipping cars a little, slowly building up the kitty to finish the 54 Pontiac Tin Woody Wagon. Sold 5 cars this year so far. Rescued a 70 Chevelle SS out of project purgatory (seriously, out of a chicken coop). Was just gonna flip it and a friend challenged me with,"when is the next time you will get a 7o SS?" So for the moment, I am considering keeping it. I have been putzing with a 63 F100, C notched the rear, S-10 clip with dropped spindles, 350/350 with a Texas patina and I might have to sell that one as an unfinished project.
Wish I had half the hard work ethic you have, Keep blasting on the Chrysler!

Joe
Kalamazoo

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Hopefully will get the car home today it's been stuck and sitting in the rain at a friends that helped get it running but now everything is rusting and nothing but problems so I will be tearing it back apart and will have to re do 90% of the things I have done ...I'm not very happy to say the least next time I will never let a car leave my house

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Is this the original balist resitor anyone ????

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This is just a few of the things I got pics of but there is a bunch more little bs that happened to the car when it was spouse to be in a garage getting fixed and not sitting out side being beat up ... and they didn't even fix the wiring they just put another balist in and taped it to my air ride and it got hot a burnt up everything it was touching ... I replaced all that and I'm working on wiring it up right but it's a bummer when u go through the whole car and then it gets left out and becomes beat up and rusting ... even all my new bolts and intake are rusting I didn't have time to paint alot of stuff because this was for much up to get it running and driving then I would go through and do all the little stuff ... they even took out a nice little chip of my fire wall I just did ... for now on I won't let the car leave my house to be worked on

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...damn......

.

 

Yep and 2 months of time wasted waiting on it to get "fixed"

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Well I went through all the wiring I removed changed and fix alot and still have some more to do but all the main problems are accounted for ... got the ballast resister wired right finally and switched to a new starter relay and that fixed alot also found and re ran my brake light wires and there are only 2 or 3 wires I am questioning right now but they go to the light switch I believe but I will take that one once this thing is running and driving I believe the one is just the main for the high beams and the other is for the dome lights witch haven't worked since I got it and that could be why haha I replaced and updated some of the fuses and fixed the hack job replacement turn signal box ... so all in all its back on track and it's good to have it home ... Also we got a 60 by 40 wearhouse and alot of my stuff will go there for storage and hopefully this winter or next summer it will be a full working shop for me and a few fiends with paint booth and lift but for now some room in the garage will be great ....all that's left om this is to fix the leak from the valve cover bleed the braked and install the column and this should be drivable

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Also I need to mount the ballast resister in the permanent position next the the box and this is sole of the wiring before

 

You can see the difference not much but way better than the so called mechanic that was spouse to fix the problem. .. and I don't know Wtf I'm doing hahah

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Sorry to hear of the problems you've had; that all sucks. But sounds like you're on top of it. Good work. And that 60 x 40 warehouse sounds really cool.

 

Well it's running very well but the ballast resister still gets very hot to the touch ... how hot should it actually get Idk I'd there is an issue or it is normal and thanks everyone I could drive it this weekend if I bust it out but I'm not to worried about it I just want to drive it once or twice to test everything before winter

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...how hot is too hot...? The ballast resister as well as the ecu do generate heat and should not be hidden in an enclosed space or next to wire bundles according to the old Mopar engine manual. I do know that they get hot to the touch but have never had occasion to actually take a temp reading.
Maybe some with an infrared temp gauge and a 60's - 70's Mope will check theirs and reply.

.

 

I hope so I'm getting batteries for my temp guage and I'll take a reading ... I'm hoping it will be ok by the ecu or w.e under the dash it won't be covered

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I've seen running late 70s Dodge vans where the ecu got hot enough to melt the coating on the back of them enough for the coating to run down the firewall. The resistor gets hot enough to bake the porcelain that surrounds it.. Both need to be in the open where they can cool, and not burn anything else up. Both produce enough heat to melt the insulation off wires in contact with the housings. Gene

 

OK I need opinions and suggestions ... I already did the roof and engine bay red flake and want to keep that and I'll be adding the Crome trim in the middle of the body with red flake in the middle of the 2 prices of Crome to brake up the body color but I do not want to do flat black and red but I want to keep the red and do a flat color this is what I am thinking a dark metallic flat cherry red .... a gold metalic flat or a deal root beer metalic color

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Did the red one twice sorry

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