57 inline 6 235..Popping,Sputtering

FYI...When I say Ran Better Before...That was Yesterday...Before I tried to AdJ the Valve Clearances...That's when all this Started...

 

Yes..I now of the Hole..I was tod before..Not to use this..Because it may not be accurate...??? NO...??

 

When you adjusted, did it you just tighten valves, or did you loosen some?

 

OK..10-4 on that...

 

I haven't read through all of this, so pardon me if I repeat some stuff, but...

You need to know for certain if you have solids or hydraulics. Pull the sidecover off and pull a couple out and see. Big difference in settings...

Get a dwell meter so you can check the points setting.

with the engine running and the air cleaner off, look down the carb and make sure that you can see a squirt of gas happening when you goose the throttle. Also try to verify that gas is coming out from the crossbar once you get past the idle cicuit. If not, you may be running too lean.

Verify that the cap, rotor, condenser, coil are correct for your application and working properly.

Pull all the plugs and do a compression check. I've seen head gaskets blown between cylinders 5-6 and 1-2 before with no smoke occuring. Ran fine in the driveway, but would ping bad when put under a load.

 

By manually checking TDC, you will be able to verify whether it is correct, or not.

This way will be accurate for sure.

 

Yeah, stick something long, fairly stiff and narrow into the sparkplug hole to be able to tell when the piston is actually at the very top. And as mentioned, both valves for that cylinder are closed.

Double check your firing order, btw...according to the diagram. As mentioned, it doesn't matter which lug on the distributor is used as #1, as long as all are in the correct order from there. Clockwise.

Then look at the rotor. Is it pointing to #1 sparkplug wire? Or not? It's gotta be close, or it wouldn't run at all. But it might be off just enough to cause the engine to run shitty.

 

??? I guess both.. The rods and screws, Ect...were just sloppy and all over the place when I fit it...Some arms not even touching the rods...they were just bouncing around...a couple of the nuts were just laying on the head...so I just got them together at first..seemed to run ok...But I new it wasn't right...So that's why I tried to actually set them correct yesterday...My last step before hitting the road...Now its a mess...

 

SOOO...I take the Dizz cap off..Pull the plug out..and tap it till the rotor is pointing where my #1 plug is on the Dizz Cap..YES,,?? cause that is at about 3:30-4 oclock....and..yes..wires are in the correct order...

 

And we're gonna get to the valves. We just wanted to eliminate this other stuff first.

Snarl...thanks man...forgot about the accelerator pump. Do as he says, Sloppy...when you get a chance. Manually open the throttle as you sight down the carb. You see a good squirt? Or is it non-existant or just a dribble?

 

Close. Tap the motor and get the piston at top-dead-center first. Now look at the position of the rotor to see if it's pointing directly at the #1 lug on the distributor cap.

 

Fine tune the position of the piston to top-dead-center by turning the engine by hand if you can. Use the straw or even a long narrow screwdriver to be able to tell that the piston is actually at the very top...not close...exactly. Watch the thing you stuck in the plug hole...don't do this unless you're turning the engine by hand. You don't wanna be cranking the engine with the starter with a screwdriver in the sparkplug hole.

 

OK..i pulled plug..and cap..tapped starter till the #1 moved and pushed the wire up..the rotor..was pointing at..10oclock..and didn't see a marker on fly wheel...I think finding the TDC is my biggest prob..I get what we are doing..But cant seem to find it..

 

Kind of be careful of your nice new radiator. You don't really wanna bend the fins.

 

Yea put it at TDC first, then the dizzy should be pointing at cyl#1. then make sure the cyl 1 wire is at that position on the cap and start the firing order from there

 

The position of the rotor is what it is, and will do us no harm.

We want to focus on the piston position first, then we can move the wires to where we need them to be.

 

If you can find the mark on the flywheel, line it up with the hole and mark it with a bright yellow grease pencil or something. Maybe a dab of paint. It'll either be a steel ball, or a round indentation. It is kinda hard to see sometimes.

 

the paper towel method you were using was good. you just need to make sure that after the paper flies out, you keep turning the engine until it has reached very top

 

If you can rotate the engine by hand, it will be MUCH easier to get it to rest at true TDC.

The odds are against your, and your starter's, happiness to try and bump it to the exact right spot.

 

Scratch that. You don't actually need to see the timing mark. Just do the piston at tdc thing and then see where the rotor points at. Hopefully, right at #1 lug on the cap.

 

OK...then this may be my prob...cause..my #1 is it 4oclock...so yer saying that...TDC THe rotor should point AT THE #1 Spark PLUG HOLE/CLYNDER..??? about 1 or 1:30 ish position..???

 

Got it..OK...im gonna do that..then rock it in 3rd gear to get it exact top.. BRB

 

Although...when the piston is at tdc, you should be able to see the timing mark on the flywheel. If not, you might have the piston at the top, but it's one turn of the engine out of position...at the end of the exhaust stroke, instead of at the end of the compression stroke. Again, the valves need to be closed.

 

Not quite...

Wherever the rotor is pointing when you have reached TDC is where you want to put the #1 sparkplug wire.

4:30, 1, 6 o'clock, it doesnt matter, just start the plug wires from that point with #1.

 

Ok im freezing right here...the paper towel popped out like a bullet..and the rotor is pointing at the lug where I have the #1 pluw wire..about 5 oclock... now I'll rock it in third gear to get exact TDC...?? How will I know..Now..??

 

Stick something long and narrow in the sparkplug hole that will move up and down with the piston. Watch it as you "rock" the car or turn the engine by hand. When it stops, you're at tdc. (top dead center)

 

You're close. Can you turn the engine by hand instead of with the starter?

^Yep, what Rickybop said.

 

Also..what does the TDC mark look like on the fly wheel..I see the arrow..I think I see it...Does it say..TDC...I may have pasted it when I docked it..I think I see a D and C in there..Sprayed cleaner on it...Im holding here till u say..

 

"When it stops" Before it starts going the other direction...down.

 

Yes Rocking it in 3rd gear seems to do it well..to turn it..by hand