57 inline 6 235..Popping,Sputtering

Rickbop your gap info is a mile off !!!!
Just double checked my info I am too.
CORRECT point gap .016 per Motors manual plug gap .035

 

Paper match book cover is exactly .016

 

U lost me at turn the motor by hand..I have a fan,and radiator..blocking the balancer...How do I turn by hand..?? "untill one cam lob is directly under the rubbing block of the points"..also..no clue here

 

pull the plugs and grab the balencer. Turn it by hand if the starter bump doesn't land it on a lobe. There shouldn't be a crank pully nut until the later years.

 

With the plugs out, you won't have compression and can probobly do it from the top with the fan. Go under if you can't.

 

6 points on the dizzy shaft. Points breaker open at each point. Get to a point and set the gap at .016

 

Good thing you stopped by, John. Kinda late and not being careful enough. You're absolutely right. I was thinking spark plug gap. Sorry Sloppy. .016

 

If this engine is a 57 CAR engine it will have hydraulic lifters orignaly, truck engines were solid lifter till 62. Yep a matchbook cover was the old side of the road getter home deal. Also when done gapping use a biz card between the points to wipe any oil etc. from them.

 

does it make a difference witch of the 6 sides its resting on..as in ..does the rotor have to be pointed in a certain direction..??

 

if you have a manual trans, put it in third gear and rock it back and forth, gently

 

Lots easier for a beginer to pull the plugs and turn the engine over using the fan to get the points on the peak of the cam.

 

No. Position of the cam doesn't matter except to have one point at the rubbing block on the points.

 

No. Not for setting points. Yes, when setting timming or starting to run the rack, but that will be in a bit

 

Any peak will do ,rotor direction does not matter. 103's 3rd deal is another way to gently move the engine into the correct spot.

 

You got any beer Sloppy? For this crowd hangin' out at your garage?...lol.

 

Try to turn the engine by turning the fan. If the fan belt slips, put some pressure on the belt and try it again. Push on the long loose portion of the belt...not on the pulley.

 

Got a gauge for .016 or thereabouts?

 

lol...ok.. to clarify...It has to be on the ..POINT..of it ..Right...Not on one of the flat sides... Cause..thats when the point ...OPENS...Correct..???

 

Yes

 

You've got it.

 

Ok, just to document this at this stage: popping spuutering and runs like crap under acceleration, slight tip in throttle under load. Runs fine at idle and runs fine reved in nuetral. Right?

 

And my wife say's I waste my time sitting at the computer, HA!

 

Lol. Get a smart phone and she will just think you are texting

And you can post from the throne, garage, bedroom , kitchen, under the car etc

 

And go ahead and pull the sparkplugs if you have to, so you can turn the engine by hand. I was gonna have you pull at least one or two of 'em anyway...to see if they're fouled. (black and fuzzy) And maybe another cause of the crappy running engine.

 

K...Done...NEXT....

 

Checking in, in anticipation

 

Plugs out...Valve cover off...

 

Correct...

 

Was it off? Did you run it in gear? Did that fix it? If not, we now move to the valve trainand pull the cap back off to watch it come to #1 when you get TDC

 

Pull up a chair, sloppys wife's bringing some pizza and brews.