Hey Guys, I'm calling it an imposter because I love the gasser look - all business, purpose built. I don't have deep enough pockets to make a genuine period correct recreation, so I'm not going to offend the gasser gods by calling it something it isn't. However, it will have as many period touches as I can afford. A couple years back, I picked up a '57 4 door (sorry, its all that was in my budget). Looked halfway decent in the ads, and was billed as 'running and driving'. Of course, looks are always deceiving. It wouldn't start when I showed up. The oil smelled like 89 octane from the repeated starting attempts at full choke and stomping on the gas. I wasn't particularly worried, I had other ideas for an engine. He showed me a video of the car doing a burnout without anything flying off of or out of it, so I was sold. I looked past the warts (as we all do) and brought it home. It was originally a 283/PG car, though by the time it came into my possession, it had a 350 from a '79 truck bolted to a BOP TH350. Conveniently, the PG and the original block (bored .050, missing main caps and covered in surface rust) were located in the trunk. Anyone need a '57 only block? Free to any sort of home. I assume I'll need to haul the PG off to the scrapper myself. Over the months, I worked on it when I had time - new rear springs & shocks, new fuel tank, and a rebuilt front suspension and steering. For front springs, I used the stock 6 cylinder springs, Moog 656 if I remember right. I also put a horseshoe spacer in each spring pocket to bring the front end up a little - I'd like to get it level with the rear, not looking for the nose high look. I got some cheater slicks from Towel City for the rear, and some no-name blackwalls for the front. I tried to find a tall tire for the front, though now I'm hoping its not too tall to play nice with the fenderwell headers. Still not sure how I feel about the rally's up front, they may get the heave-ho. Keeping the steelies on the rear for sure. It already has a manual disc conversion up front, and it'll keep its manual brakes, at least for now. After that, the motor and trans came out so I could prep the engine bay for the new motor. The old motor & trans got sold to fund the new build: a sbc 400. I know the 400 might be OT, but I'm going to see if I can disguise it to look like an early small block - can I make it work with an intake with a front oil fill, and sneak a PCV in the back of the intake, so I can run solid valve covers? I haven't looked too far into it, I know threads exist that I can peruse when I get to that point. I got my hands on an old Mallory dual point with a flat two piece cap that I'd like to use as well. Also, I was given the block, crank and heads 17 years ago and I've been waiting for the right project to use it on, so here we are. The motor itself supposedly had low miles. Legend has it that it came out of an OT wrecked '72 Impala, and eventually made its way into another OT '70 Z28 that an old friend used to run at CT Dragway. When he gave me the motor, he couldn't find the rods. Now I think I know why, because it threw at least one of them and gave a parting shot at the bottom of #1. Presently, the car is waiting patiently for me to get the block and crank to the machine shop to be cleaned and magged before I spend any money on it, though I think both will check out fine (or at least usable). I'm not too worried about the chip, its about an 1/8 long, and I'll deburr it before I drop it off. The block is a STD bore, and the mains seem to say the same about the crank, that its never been turned. No ridge to speak of in the cylinders. Anyway, that's where I'm at. I've decided to use 5.7" rods and speed pro flat tops because they fit nicely into my budget. After I get the rotating assembly together, I'll have to make a decision on the cam. Things that will come into play with that: rear gear is probably 3.36, but I have an OE style posi to put in the OE axle, so I'll probably be making it a 3.55 or 3.73 car, but that's down the road. Also, I'm going to be using the stock heads to get it going (I know, I know). They've got 1.94 valves and the guides are pretty tight. I may just have a valve job done and call it good while I save up for a pair of Darts. So I'll be trying to find a cam that's passable with the stock heads but that will really shine with some decent heads. With the flat tops, I'd stay with a head with a 76cc chamber, so the compression stays around 9.5:1, I want to stick with pump gas. Trans will be a super T-10 from an OT vette. A Hurst V-gate crossed my path for the right price that was set up for a Muncie, so I'm hoping it will be somewhat plug and play with the ST-10. The trans came with a Competition shifter as well (though without a handle) that I can fall back on if the V-Gate doesn't pan out. It was modified sometime during its lifetime and the 'brass knuckles' were swapped for a lever that looks like it came off a B&M pro stick. Anyway, thanks for reading. Its almost embarrassing to say that the above represents 2 years of work, but with a toddler at home and that dream of a gravel driveway to work on, I suppose it could be worse. The must do punch list (other than build the engine) is pretty short: brake lines, fuel line, clutch linkage and some wiring. I'm actually fairly excited to be this close to have a moving vehicle capable of annoying the neighbors.