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Technical 57 Chevy engine mount questions - be gentle

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Squablow, May 6, 2019.

  1. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 14,049

    Squablow
    Member

    I'm working on a '57 Chevy car and I've got some engine mount questions. Please keep in mind I'm a body man and not a mechanic so stuff that seems obvious to you probably isn't to me.

    Basically, the car got a 350/350 stuck in it just far enough to drive it onto a trailer and I want to finish it up. One thing I noticed is it has front engine mounts and a trans mount on the back of the tail shaft but nothing in between. The original frame braces for the bellhousing center mounts are still intact.

    Here's a picture of the front engine mount, questions to follow.

    20190506_122820.jpg

    First question, does that mount look right, with that gap in there? I'm not really sure what it was originally supposed to look like.

    Second question, if that is what the mount is supposed to look like, do I want to add some kind of center mounts to the bellhousing? Seems like an awfully long stretch from the front of the engine to the end of the trans.

    Third, am I better off in some way to add the motor mount brackets to use the center engine mounts instead of these front pieces, and if so, do I need to have the engine out of the car to install them? I'd really like to leave the engine in place if I don't absolutely need to pull it out.

    I will say that the custom trans crossmember put into the car looks pretty good. I do need to send the driveshaft in to get balanced but I don't want to do it until the engine is permanently bolted in place in case it gets moved around and needs to be a bit shorter or longer or whatever, but the motor mounts seem to be the keystone here.

    I need some solid knowledge/advice. I can make a 4 door sedan into a 2 door but engine swaps and mounts are not my field.
     
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  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 44,284

    squirrel
    Member

    there are two ways to go, you could get the Danchuck kit that adds mounts to the transmission to block bolts, and attach to the original frame horns. It looks hokey, but might work ok.

    https://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=870

    Or do it right, get side mounts and bolt or weld them in place, although doing it without removing the engine might be difficult.

    https://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=871

    The gap you're talking about, do you mean between the donuts, the long stud in there? yeah, that's normal. If you mean something else, please elaborate
     
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  3. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 14,049

    Squablow
    Member

    Yes, the gap between the donuts, was wondering if that was how it was supposed to look. Excellent advice, thanks.

    Let me ask you this, with those motor mounts bolted the way they are, the engine should be properly located (front to back at least), correct? Like, swapping to the side mounts, if I did go that way, wouldn't affect the front to back location of the engine? I'm wondering if I can send my driveshaft in, safe in the knowledge that the length is correct, even if I did swap to the other style motor mounts. I hope that question makes sense.
     
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  4. olscrounger
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,560

    olscrounger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    ^^^^ This--I would go with the top option in this case-have seen it done many times Front stock mts with new biscuits, bell housing kit and rear member, Can be done in car without removing engine
     
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  5. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 512

    Doublepumper
    Member

    I've used the Danchuk transmission side mount conversion kit. It's actually a pretty solid kit and works well.
     
  6. olscrounger
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,560

    olscrounger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    agree with above-know of a 55 done this way with no rear member like they were stock with many many miles on it over the yrs and a good amt of passes at the drags as well-still solid-no issues.
     
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  7. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 5,207

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from texas

    Front mounts and trans mount will work fine. From factory they did front mount bell housing and hung a cast iron powerglide on there. Seen lots of front and trans mounts and not any real issues. But if you drive like a mad man all the time I would think you could hurt something.
     
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  8. Most of the add on side motor mounts kits that I’ve seen move the motor forward 3/4” to allow more room for the distributor. Not necessary but nice to have a bit more room.
     
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  9. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 44,284

    squirrel
    Member

    It should be correct front to back.

    and...

    Some of the side mount kits move the engine forward 3/4", but usually only those intended for use with big blocks.
     
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  10. The factory set up works just fine. you can go to side mounts on the engine and leave the bellhousing side mounts as well to locate the side motor mounts. 67-72 C10's with factory 4 speeds are mounted this way. Side mounts for the motor and then side mounts on the bellhousing and the trans mission is floating and the SM46 is a cast iron case transmission
     
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  11. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 14,049

    Squablow
    Member

    This is one of the things I was worried about. If the engine comes forward with the side mount kit, then my shifter linkage needs to be modified and my trans mount will be in the wrong spot, and it'll effect the length of my driveshaft (which isn't set in stone yet but needs to be dealt with). I will say the distributor clearance at the firewall is pretty tight but it does fit the way it's in there now. If I can just bolt on some side mount tabs for peace of mind, I feel like that would be a good way to go.

    It's really good to get this feedback from everyone, I do appreciate it.
     
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  12. I’m pretty sure you can get side mounts that leave the motor in the stock location.
     
  13. TimCT
    Joined: Jun 6, 2017
    Posts: 160

    TimCT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The side mount kit I ended up getting leaves the engine in the stock location - McGaughys PN 63192. Just about ready to bolt them on the engine and drop it between the frame rails to see where I need to drill the holes.
     
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  14. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 3,371

    41rodderz
    Member
    from Oregon

    I don't think you should leave it such as a triangle mount. Side mounts off the bell housing or block side mounts with the tailshaft housing mount will be okay. If one of those front engine mounts decided to give up the ghost , you may find problems adding up. You don't need a twisting action to damage the trans case.
     
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  15. oldtom69
    Joined: Dec 6, 2009
    Posts: 442

    oldtom69
    Member
    from grandin nd

    I would add some kind of bell housing mount-not only is the span from the front mount to the rear tailshaft a long way,but more importantly both mounts are close to the engine center-line. There is going to be a tendency to"rock"-putting a lot of stress on those 60+ year old front mounts
     
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  16. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 14,049

    Squablow
    Member

    I think I'm sold on the Danchuk center trans mount kit, and I'll keep the tail shaft mount and crossmember that was added as well, that should really make it solid, and the center mount kit is only $100 and bolts in so even if I could get away with what I currently have, why try. If the engine wasn't already in place with a lot of stuff hooked up the side mount relocators seem like a good option too but I was hoping not to pull the engine and I'm not worried about the look so I'm all for this plan. Thanks for all the responses.
     
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  17. OLSKOOL57
    Joined: Feb 14, 2019
    Posts: 389

    OLSKOOL57
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    What Taboo56Chevy said, The factory system works just fine. For my 57 Chevy Sedan I purchased complete new front biscuits & hardware and same for Bellhousing mounts. Works Great!!
     
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  18. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 10,961

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    The best answer wasn't stated as such......but hinted at. The GM engineers evolved from the 'stilts' at the front and bell housing side mounts to the block side mounts and the trans tail housing mount.

    That spread the engine and trans weight loading more proportionately and eliminated the trans hanging out in the breeze. While other methods 'work', which I would define as 'don't often fail', the various derivatives cited do not seem to me to be as well engineered as the eventual factory design.
     
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  19. If you need the mid - mounts at the transmission. I just removed mine and don’t need them


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  20. Work with front engine mounts and TH350 in a 57 Chevy (engine in factory V8 position)


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  21. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  22. Phil55Kratz
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 177

    Phil55Kratz
    Member

    [​IMG]
    I used those mounts for the front on my 55 (stock style) and I also had mounts at the bellhousing and that was it. I had a mild 350 so wasn’t worried about much.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  23. thehazguy
    Joined: Aug 12, 2010
    Posts: 1,794

    thehazguy
    Member

    57-MM-2.jpg I had Earle Williams engine mounts welded on my 210. Stock engine location. Stock type electronic distributor.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 7, 2019
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  24. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 3,751

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    Just an aside, but the Shakey Puddin' '55 runs a front plate and mid plate only, and turns mid 9's @150mph+. Like Taboo said above, the C10 pickups through '72 ran side engine and bellhousing mounts with an SM465, but be aware that was using a cast iron bell. I like your choice, and would probably do exactly like you are planning. With all 3 locations used, it should be tough enough for anything the Duke boys could put it through. Is this going to be a 4 door conversion?
     
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  25. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 14,049

    Squablow
    Member

    You have the factory style mid mounts, or you have the Danchuk style kit mounts for newer automatics? Because if you have the Danchuk style ones I would very much like to buy them from you, I'll send you a message directly.
     
  26. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 14,049

    Squablow
    Member

    You know it. It's practically my signature move at this point. Working on inner rockers and floor supports now. The body is still square and original doors open and close real nice so I want to get everything welded up solid before I start cutting it apart.

    While I've got it up in the air high to work on the rockers I figured I'd get my mount situation figured out and send my driveshaft in but I just want to make sure I'm not doing anything foolish. Best part of a '57 Chevy is someone else has already figured out how to do just about everything.

    The engine is nothing too special, certainly no race car, and I tend to drive like a little old lady but I'd rather be overly cautious.
     
  27. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 3,751

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    If there will be a build thread, post a link here please. Will be watching.
     
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  28. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 14,049

    Squablow
    Member

    Big thanks to @ejgloss who is hooking me up with the side bellhousing pieces I need!

    I haven't started one yet but when I do I'll post it up.
     
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  29. cshades
    Joined: Sep 2, 2011
    Posts: 449

    cshades
    Member
    from wi

    I am doing a 57 right now that the customer wanted a 200r4 in place of the manual trans. I bought a kit from POL that put in side mounts but the everything stayed in the stock position. I installed everything without removing the drive train, it was kind of a pain but can be done with a 90 degree drill for the 2 upper holes and used the torch to make 2 small locater holes for the bottoms and then drilled through the crossmember and mount holes. The car is a finished car interior, paint and engine compartment so I didn't want to move the engine ahead or pull it out.
     
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  30. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 3,371

    41rodderz
    Member
    from Oregon

    Five points should be solid. Glad your doing that. :cool:
     
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