Customs 57 Chevy Budget 4 door build

That's your choke that is open. The other butterfly doesn't look right if that is what it is. Looks like a tear in it but not sure. I would think your throttle butterflys would be down near the intake although it's been 35 to 40 years since I worked on one of these in line sixes.

 

That's the choke butterfly, you jive turkey.

 

Looks like i'm going to have to rewire a bunch more stuff too. Every time i bend any of the wires trying to connect them to the solenoid, they snap because they're so old. I'm too annoyed with it to do anything else today. I did get the carb put back together today at least, although apparently not the right way. I'll make a trip to get some more wire/tape tomorrow sometime and i'll look at the carb later


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If the wiring is that brittle, it's time to take it out and rewire it.


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Sounds like he's got a cranky ol' lady that's demanding some TLC!

 

Where a jumper wire and remote starter button really comes in handy.

 

Pineapple you should be able to get your basic ignition circuit made with temporary wiring, and with everything powered up, take a small screwdriver and open and close the points without touching the screwdriver to anything but the points. You don't want the screwdriver grounded in other words. You should see a significant spark between the points when you open and close them. Until you get that spark ain't nuthin happenin!

When you get the temp wiring done, post a pic of the wiring and you can have several greybeards looking over your shoulder to help you succeed!

 

It's frustrating, but you will get it. Damn shame you're so far away. I'd love to get my hands on that six.

 

Do not start rewiring things until you get that thing to at least fart. That thing will start if you have gas & spark. It. is. that. fucking. simple. Do not complicate the matter.

As chevy57dude said if you were closer I would love to get that thing running and moving again.

 

Well, i have to at least run a new wire from the resistor to the solenoid because the end connection snapped off. Just to make sure i'm doing this right, i have everything disconnected from the battery. Then, i take a piece of wire and put one end on the positive coil bolt and one end on the positive battery post, and at that point i should see spark? The engine wouldnt turn over like this i'm assuming since the starter isnt connected to power, so would the points even be able to move without engine movement? How i did it earlier was i took one of the plugs out but left it connected and left it sitting on the valve cover (bare metal) and then put the wire from the coil to the battery and nothing at all happened


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No, maybe-assuming you mean a spark at the points, it won't toss a spark out of the coil wire.
That will just give 12volts to coil.

Look around on the web, find a proper wiring diagram for it, just rewire it as it should be, then trouble shoot from there.

There really are not any shortcuts to take, sure, there's ways to eliminate some stuff, but start off with things wired properly, and go from there

 

This morning I dug out something that you need. Pay shipping and it's yours.

 

It's even a snap on...Now that is a generous offer. I hope he takes you up on it. Makes things a lot easier when you are working alone.

 

An ignition circuit in a box. Hot battery connected to the starter and the car can run.

 

PM your PayPal account and I'll pay the shipping.


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There is some good stuff right there. Pineapple gonna get that engine running one way or another!

 

One thing I always do is try to mark everything with tape or pen, make a small crude diagram or take a few pictures and make a list of steps BEFORE removing anything. In cases where it is just a pile of parts (unlike yours) often you can still forensically inspect items and by matching paint, oil, grease and scuff/scratch marks to give a general idea of how things went together. For instance your solenoid, if the new solenoid was the correct part number it should've been exactly the same (there are part numbers on everything) if it was a "similar" replacement part the slight difference in length shouldn't have mattered now you have an old solenoid and the new one's in parts. The stud that fell out of the cap should've had a nut holding it in place for some reason it was removed though it was not necessary for removing the cap, you use two thin wrenches to remove those wires one to hold the nut that holds the stud in place, that's why it broke when you turned only the outer nut. With your wiring I wouldn't get carried away replacing everything cut it back to where it's flexible and solder new ends replace the clips with new crimped or soldered clips and definitely replace any lengths of wire that have multiple cracks or brittle areas. The gas tank has a filler tube with a rubber connector that has to be separated (and replaced) there is also a rubber fuel line going to the sender and a wire for the gauge to remove. With the carb, screws for fuel mixture/idle etc. are all factory set hopefully you counted the number of turns each one took to remove and recorded it or you'll have do a bunch of extra tuning ....Careful observation would have revealed these things. I'm offering you this advice based on the thousands of projects I've personally seen where "progress" was mistakenly understood as "dis-assembly" we feel so good tearing things apart, we forget what we had for lunch but are convinced we will remember for all eternity where every single nut bolt and screw went. We throw it all in boxes and then suddenly the enormity of it all falls in on them. 2 years later the car is on Craigslist for a song due to "lack of interest". Don't fall into this trap....in short: Do ONE thing at a time until it is DONE and LOOK 10x before picking up a tool

*remember that your valve seats were designed for leaded fuel and are already taking quite a beating without a bunch of rust flakes so $100 on a new gas tank is a no brainer....good luck will be fun to drive but not so fun to see sit and rot in the driveway because of lack of interest

 

found a great youtube channel, this guy specializes in old rochesters and i found a video on my carb so now i know how to fix my stuck choke.

 

Also huge thanks to chevy57dude who sent me as well as whichever awesome member paid the shipping on the snap on starter! Can't thank you guys enough!

 

I bought my carb rebuilt kit through Mikes Carbs and followed his rebuild video and I had no problem with the carb running with just the slightest adjustment. Hopefully you will have the same luck!

 

The switch should arrive today. I tested it with a multi meter, then on my car to make sure it works.
Couldn't get the video to load, try as I might.
If you still don't get spark, it's time to look at the terminals on the distributor wires, connections to the points & gap them (keep a book of matches handy haha) and all the spark plug wire terminals. Both in the dist cap and at the plugs.

 

for sure man! my mom told me she got a box today and asked who pineapple is, if i knew him so it's at home but i'll see it myself in a couple hours. got into the fraternity i wanted, it was a busy couple of weeks but i'm looking forward to working on my car again!

 

Congrats on getting into The Animal House! Now, it's time to fire that 235 up! Go Pineapple go!

 

The best advice I can give is just worry about getting the car running and driving, worry about the important things like wiring, brakes, a fictional cooling system, fuel system. A v8 will come in time worry about safety items first then drive it and work out the bugs

 

Meet your frat brothers

 

Somebody drove a 4 door 55 in that movie

 

I remember bludo kicking in the fender of a crosley in that scene. Sad him and flounder passed


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Again, cant thank you guys enough and it's great to be a part of the hobby. Got the snap on starter and a vacuum tester from chevy57dude. Back to work, hopefully i can get a spark with this setup!


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so starter solenoid switch post is the one that has an s next to it right? And the battery side of the ballast resistor would be to the opposite small post on the solenoid right?

 

Look at the 3rd post on page 5. Get a piece of paper and draw it. Then you can trace the wires back with the paper in your face and you won't have to keep jacking with your phone getting all frustrated. Relax, take your time, check everything twice and ask questions when needed, and have fun!