Customs 57 Chevy Budget 4 door build

Been working on the shift linkage for a couple hours and i can’t get it line up right. Before i took everything apart, the shifting was tight and felt good for being a 3 on the tree. Now it jams up and i can actually move the linkage by hand into 2 gears at once. I’ll try it again in a while but man this is frustrating.


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It’s weird, 2/3rd gear linkage seems to work better if i hold the rods at a crooked angle, but as soon as i let it hang free it all jams up again.


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This isn't your column but I'm showing this so you may grasp what needs to happen with your shifter first. To find the perfect neutral at/on your shifter (very important) the lever's need to be perfectly parallel to each other and centered to the up and down throw. With the shifter set like that of photo's all that's needed is to install/adjust rod/rods so they fall into the lever/lever's dead center to the hole/holes at the column levers.

 

So basically, take the cotter pins off the arms of the trans, make sure the shift lever is in complete neutral by making sure the rods are parallel, then get under the car and make sure both arms are in neutral position then connect the rods to the arms? When i connected them earlier i had to pull one of the rods down about a quarter inch to get it to line up with the arms on the transmission. It’s weird because they should just work since the same rods were on the same transmission before.

 

When you put the drill bit in it will put the column shifter in neutral. If you look closely at his picture there is a hole in each arm and a slot or groove on the column. Disconnect the rods from the column. When you get all three points lined up with the drill bit the column is in neutral. Make sure the trans is in neutral and adjust the rods until you can put them on without moving anything to get them on.

From the picture I would guess the size of the bit to be 1/4".

 

Speedo cables are dirt cheap, I buy a lot of parts on eBay, you should find one in minutes. On one car I had, OT Bullit '68 Mustang, no speedo. I just went by the tach and knew what speed correlated to what RPM.

 

Your shifter rods {from column to trans} are adjustable. you shound make sure the threads are clean and lubed so you can easiely spin them to fall into the holes on the column. In other words adjust them from the top over the fender not underneath the car. Ralphie

 

But then how do you know when you've gone 3,000 miles for oil changes???

 

Yes everything in neutral. The rods being shorter or larger is normal. That can also happen when replacing worn out motor and trans mounts on those car's. I know setting things up can be a hassle when doing it for the first time. Especial getting that sweet spot so the shifter will move up from 2-3 to R-1 and vise versa.

 

That isn't a Tri-Five Column and I'm uncertain that OP's is that way as well to allow for indexing.

 

Leaving town for a few days until new years but by the time i get home, the set of block hugger headers i ordered should be here. They're made to fit a tri five so hopefully i don't have problems with the shifter linkage. Then i'll get everything put together and try to take a drive around the block, even if i have to reach under the car and shift the transmission into 1st. Still gotta run to the hardware store and get some wiring for the alternator but that's easy.

 

The rubber grommets are also old, worn, shrunk, and damaged by oil; the metal clevis ends are probably worn as well.
And, I probably should't mention this, but I have a complete NOS Hurst Synchro-Loc shifter for the old Muncie 318 transmission, and some used ones also; if worse comes to worse, you know what to do. Also have a NOS Ansen shifter for the same, and some NEW off brand stuff also (the off brand I could just give to you for shipping). I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

That's a very generous offer Butch just put out there.
Not everyone here gets offered stuff for free.

 

I just want to take a moment to comment on this thread. Tremendous thanks go out to all of the folks who have stepped up with continued advice as well as parts and encouragement for this young man. You guys epitomize what the HAMB and hot -rodding in general are all about. You all are to be commended. It restores one's faith in humanity to see that there still exists a sense of fraternity amongst those of us who play with these cars. And most of all, I want to extend a digital handshake and pat on the shoulders to the young man who is the recipient of your kindness. He's out there in a cold garage, working largely alone, crawling around on hard concrete, solving problems and following his dream. If anyone ever doubted the future of this hot-rodding thing, forget about it. With young guys like him, the future is in good hands..................................Just my thoughts, Don.

 

Well said

 

I’ve been really amazed at the generosity of you guys here on the hamb. I’ve been given some really useful parts, a couple tools all for nothing or the cost of shipping. If I ever get the chance to meet any of the guys who helped me build this car I’d like to have you guys sign the dash or glove box door. Huge thank you to Butch who sent out the bits i needed for the clutch and throttle linkage a couple days ago! I like doing as much as i can myself but sometimes it sure is nice to have someone helping you out! This all makes me want to do the same for other people on here.


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Most of us will try to help and give our opinions even if you don't want it or ask for it lol. It's just good to see another young guy take an interest in this old junk.

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Don't worry, in a few years you can be the "old timer " giving the new guy hell while you help them.

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............................and it happens a lot quicker than one can imagine.

 

Know what being the FNG is.That was me at 18 when I built my first engine.It was a Studebaker 289 R1(supposedly) engine that I got for $25.00 in a basket.My Dad took one look at it and said"Good luck,you will never get that pile of parts to run".About a month later he had to eat his words when I took him for a ride.Thanks to a neighbor that was a great help to me.Thanks to Jody Wodtke. Now gone to that big race track in the sky.God bless ya buddy for your wisdom and help.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Headers i ordered don’t fit. Great. Don’t clear the steering box or shifter linkage even though it says it fits tri five chevy. Gonna see if i can return them, i mean damn there went $70 if i can’t. I did find a set of rams horns here locally for $40 just a few minutes ago, no alternator mount but rams horns nonetheless.


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Describe how the headers don't fit. Long tube?

 

here’s one of the headers, there isn’t enough room between the block and the steering box and linkage, the middle 2 and back pipes sick out too far.


What’cha got in there, kid?
More than you can handle!

 

Yup, tri-5 steering boxes suck to work with. Main reason we put Racks on them. But clipster headers do clear better than those block huggers. In the 57 we are finishing up, had to indent those headers to clear box.

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40 bucks for rams horns...get them...can double your money if they have an issue.

Can you get a pic of what isn't clearing? Can they be dimpled to clears/...Can the steering box be pulled, installed and fit after the headers are on?

Did the engine you got have exhaust manifolds with it?

 

Well I don't want to bash these brand new headers because i'm gonna try to either return them or resell them. it had manifolds but they were 90s truck ones that are just as bad as the headers clearance wise.

 

do these look like what i need? they look straight instead of block hugger, not sure if that matters.

 

how should i ground it by the way, i was just going to put the ground wire from the battery to the intake bolt, on the 6 cyl it was just grounded to the water pump, and mine didn't have any other grounds, but i'm seeing where people are saying to run a ground from the starter bolt to the frame as well and my car does not have that.

 

You better check the numbers on those cast headers. They look like they are more late model to my eye than early. They might be off a 305 or that 267 V8 from the seventies. I didn't bother looking at the casting numbers...that's up to you. They may not even fit your heads if they are what I think they are. But then again they might are you are good to go. Track down the numbers.

 

So what manifolds do i need to find? Any certain years that i need? I try to only mess things up once


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