I am looking for people who have upgraded late 50's chevy drums to discs. Specifically 57 chevys. I keep going back and fourth between 2 scenarios. Both would include a NEW dual master and booster. 1. Stock spindles - add caliper bracket plate and late GM disk parts. Cut a coil or so out of the spring and drive it. or 2. Drop spindles - get the drop while not touching the suspension. Still using late GM parts for availability. Also if you have swapped out the rear for a disc set up what did you get it out of? Or did you retrofit? At one time I had a list someone PM'ed me on what they did for the brakes I have since misplaced it. If you have put together your own brake set up a list of items that work well together please let me know. I am trying to see what I need to scrape together to get my wagon updated. Feedback on what you have would be a great help. The warm weather outside is getting me itchy to get things going. Cody
I have a 57 chevy i added disc's to the front on years ago. I bought the brackets and went to the parts store for everything else. And i lowered it with cut coils back then as well. Never had one single problem doing it that way...until i wanted it lower yet, cut another coil out and made it so the headers hit everything in sight..the short tire's didn't help either though. I actually have a brand new set of Heidts dropped spindles and disc brakets for my other 57 that i don't think i'm going to use.. They are brand new yet never bolted to a car just in case you decided to go that route.. I've been considering selling them This pic is with cut coils....when the headers hit everything..haha Isn't your wagon the ride you used my old 56 wheel in?? Tony
I did the old style bracket kit and 69-72 chevelle rotors, cut 1.5 coils, no problems. you have to sneak up on cutting the springs, I went too far the first time and had trouble. headers are a pain, find some that tuck up completely in the frame or they'll drag. drop spindles or not does not really make a difference here, it's how low the car is. drop spindles leave full suspension travel and a lowered car. I kind of like having the suspension bottom out, before the frame/oil pan hits the ground...if you know what I mean...so cutting coils instead really does have an advantage for some of us
The drop spindles are only good if you're running off-topic wheels, 20" or bigger. I have new, 1" lower springs and my headers are all bent-up. I've run 14" and 15" wheels still drags the pipes.
I have done it both ways. First with stock spindles and brackets with off the shelf gm stuff, 2nd dropped spindles with built in caliper brackets and off the shelf gm stuff, 3rd with stock spindles and Wilwood brakes . I like the look and operation of the Wilwoods far more than off the shelf GM stuff, but I have never tried with aftermarket GM replacement calipers like what SSBC sales. If you want to go with dropped spindles and Wilwood brakes you are stuck with using Heidts prprietary setup ,which means even if you are a Wilwood dealer you still have to buy the brakes thru Heidts. That is where I am now. I want to go back with the dropped spindles, but my Wilwood stuff ha Spoiled me so I guess I will have to save pennies or sale my existing setup to get the Heidts stuff. Anybody want to buy stock spindle Wilwood front brake Kit. And for what it is worth I put the Wilwoods on the rear(12 bolt rear) to match the front. Now I have brakes hiding behind a set of smoothies so you can't see them anyway. My .02. Later Shane T
As far as the headers go with a PAtriot or Dougs or Sanderson 3/4 length header and get away from the headaches of a full length header. Even at stock height I destroyed a set of Hooker supecomps in about a month thanks to speed bumps and potholes.
Drop spindles (2") and stock springs with one coil removed on my '56, GM parts front disc setup. Rear is 9" on super slides with ECI (Vette/Camaro) rear discs (have e-brake). I don't think the rear discs are worth it unless you're canyon-carving. vic
Tony - yup the 56 wheel is holding strong. Thanks again! I do need to get the rebuild kit for he horn. The previous owner did some funny stuff with how it's wired up in the column. Sounds like everyone is having a nice time with the GM stuff and cut or drop springs. I had a parts list once but I haven't been able to find it at one time I had a link saved for someones site that had a GM parts list but I didn't transfer it over when I swapped computers. I would love to see what GM parts you guys are using from Dual master and booster down to the discs and pads. I am on the look out for some stock steel 15's to put back under it so clearence I guess should be fine.
can everyone post a pic of your car so we can see the results. i am getting ready for the same thing. my 57 has long tube headers and stock suspension and it hits every thing, so, i bought some block hugger headers to eliminate that problem.
53- Ya, you know the I-6 has "A" monster pipe on it! It has a bad seal at the header anyway but there is no clearence problem. When I get it drug up to Robin's this spring for the T-5 upgrade we are going to figure out what to do about it. He mentioned that he might have a leaf or two that should be close to what I need. In the back I am probably going to get a couple of S-10 lowering blocks to get the back down. I will probably have to rebuild the rear brakes or at least the e-brake cause even with it adjusted up all of the way it barely holds with the new pads and hubs.
most block huggers will hit the steering box, see if you can find some shorty headers made for a 55-57 instead. brake parts: 69-72 chevelle rotors, 70-77 camaro calipers or the chevelle ones (they use different hoses, either will work but you need to match the hose to the caliper) D52 pads, there's a trick with the inner bearing but I forget what it was, uses 61-70 full size car seals, and you have to trim the cotter pin slots in the nuts down, or trim the back of the nut down, so you can put in the pins. this is for the old Classic Chevy Club kit, Ecklers may still sell it. This is NOT the late GM kit! and it also moves the wheels out about an inch, and also requires playing with the steering linkage. Hopefully someone with a newer kit will let us know what it's made from.
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