Well folks, I posted this back in 11/05, but the project kinda got stalled because when I started to put patch panels in the truck it seemed there was no where to quit because of the rust. Did I mention that I hate rust? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hey folks, I started working on putting a Dakota frame under my 56 Ford pickup and since I've seen some F-100 frame swap threads, I thought I'd post a couple of pics of the frame. The pickup I started with had a frame that was pretty cracked/butchered up and I found a complete Dakota (less motor and transmission) reasonably priced so.... The track width is about right and the Dakota wheelbase is 2" longer than the Ford. Since most folks think the front wheels need to be moved 1" to 1 1/2" forward on the mid fifties Fords, it's gonna be pretty close. You could redrill the axle plate on the rearend to make up the difference. The Dakota frame is about 3" wider than the Ford, but it's not gonna be a problem. I cut the rear cab mount off of the Dakota cab and modified it to mount to the flat Ford cab floor (after the stock mounts are cut off of the cab and the rust is repaired). That about it up until now. I started cutting and replacing the rust out of the 56 floor and kinda hubbed a stump until I get all of the patch panels bought and installed in the cab. But it looks like I can shorten and use the stock front cab mounts off of the original frame. The main problems I've run into are that the stock Ford frame sets about 15" off of the ground and the Dakota is about 9". I don't want to drop the truck 6", so I'm gonna have to put a body lift on the cab. I don't think that's gonna be too big of a problem. Also, I'm gonna cut the frame horns off of the Dakota frame at the front crossmember and stub the front of the Ford frame on to it. That way I can use the stock bumper, radiator support, etc. Last problem is that I'm gonna run 10" wide wheels on the back and want them tucked under the fenders. To do this I'll have to move the springs under the frame. Again, I don't think it'll be much of a problem. Last couple of ideas are to use the stock Dakota metal bed floor and mount the Ford bedsides to it. Also trying to use the stock gas tank and a bunch of other stuff off of the Dakota. This thing is going REAL slow since I have more projects (2 Anglias, Panhead, and this) than I have time or money, but I'll post pics of any progress I make. My fingers are getting real tired, so that's about it for now. Larry T --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
But when I decide I had to many projects and needed to thin the herd, this was one I really wanted to keep and work on. So I sold enough stuff to pay for taking the cab to a place called Metal Rehab in the Metroplex and having it dipped and stripped. I'm real happy with the way it turned out. And even though there are pinholes in places I didn't think was real bad, I know what needs to be replaced right now. So back to work. Maybe it won't be another 3 years before I have some progress to report. I mean now all I have to work on it this.................and the Anglia................and finish putting my daily rider scooter back together. :^( The cab and the Dakota frame come into the shop in the morning. The big picture is shooting from the floorboard up UNDER the dash. I'm REAL happy with the way it turned out. Larry T
Bruce, No the doors are $100.00 a piece extra. I'll probably have them done before I finish the truck. Man, it stripped ALL of the caulk and seam sealer out. Kinda scarey, you can see daylight between some of the panels and there are some pin holes in the roof that I wasn't expecting to have to deal with. But I'd rather know about it sooner than later. I'm glad I had it done, sure is gonna be nice working with clean metal instead of wondering where the rust stops. Some of the stuff I thought I was gonna have to cut out won't have to be removed now. So I spent some money and, I think, saved a LOT of time. Larry T
It ran $1150.00 to strip the cab and prime it in epoxy primer. They said they gave me a discount because I had the cab corners cut out when I took the cab to them and it was easier for them to clean. For me it was a major investment, but I think it's worth it in the long run. It means less tin work and more piece of mind about the rust situation. It would probably make the finished truck worth that much more too. That's a moot point for me, not gonna be for sale until I go toes up. Larry T
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