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Projects 56 Chevy 210 Hardtop Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Smoothy, Aug 4, 2015.

  1. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,550

    powrshftr
    Member

    And with your fairly tall tires and relatively big cam,those 5.57 gears will be awesome!:)
     
    Smoothy likes this.
  2. Smoothy
    Joined: Jun 18, 2015
    Posts: 338

    Smoothy
    Member

    You aren't kidding, I was having a terrible time searching for at least a 4.88!

    I just want to say that what Butch is doing is one of the best things a guy could do for a young hot rodder. You can become so discouraged by just simply looking at the road that lies ahead during a build, as well as the shopping list, and estimated price tags. (which always end up being more than expected) I figured it was going to be a huge headache trying to get this car ready for the Meltdowns, but with all the help from you guys I'm really learning a lot, and I never expected anyone the help out in the way that Butch is. Thank you so much!
     
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  3. Smoothy
    Joined: Jun 18, 2015
    Posts: 338

    Smoothy
    Member

    Well this evening I managed to pick up something with a little more of a "cool" or "wow" factor than what I had originally planned on running. Its a Weiand Hi Ram with 450 Holley Mechanical Carbs. 20160117_014331.jpg
     
    Butch M, timmy2times and Doctorterry like this.
  4. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 674

    Doctorterry
    Member

    awesome!!
     
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  5. Slopok
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 2,592

    Slopok
    Member

    I can hear my Mom now, GET THAT OFF THE KITCHEN TABLE!
     
  6. Smoothy
    Joined: Jun 18, 2015
    Posts: 338

    Smoothy
    Member

    Hahaha! I recommend all tunnel rams to be used a kitchen table centerpiece at least once!
     
    timmy2times, chevy57dude and loudbang like this.
  7. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,392

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    I used a 671 blower with a Scott super slot.
    I f you get the gears and need a ring gear spacer send me a PM I am sure I have one I could send you.
     
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  8. Smoothy
    Joined: Jun 18, 2015
    Posts: 338

    Smoothy
    Member

    Yes, I plan on getting both the gears and the pistons from Butch, I'll PM you about the spacer
     
  9. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,445

    56sedandelivery
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    FYI, the ring gear is a THICK gear, and will not need a spacer. And, the parts are finally on the way.
    I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
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  10. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 674

    Doctorterry
    Member

    Everytime I see this thread I get pumped for the meltdowns
     
    Smoothy likes this.
  11. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 674

    Doctorterry
    Member

    Moorrreeee updates
     
  12. Smoothy
    Joined: Jun 18, 2015
    Posts: 338

    Smoothy
    Member

    Haven't really gotten much done lately because I started my new job. However, my new job is at the machine shop here in my hometown. I've sort of become an apprentice. It's a great learning experience and I get my parts at cost and labor for free too (because I'm the one doing it.) I guess I have really been doing a lot of "research and development" as one would call it. I now have a steel forged crank with a stroke of 3.48 that I'm planning on using. Also, I have been doing all of my own head work and will be doing some porting on the heads. More updates soon.

    Snapchat--184128336183736082.jpg
     
    Butch M, powrshftr, II FUNNY and 2 others like this.
  13. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 674

    Doctorterry
    Member

    Awesome man. We resemble each other too much. Except your plans are actually coming together machining is the best thing ever. We have a good machining program in our school. I am building a compressed air powered engine right now. A fun challenge! Anyways, keep me updated please. I love watching this build
     
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  14. Very cool Project! Subscribed. You are alot further ahead with your project at 18 than I was.
     
    timmy2times, Doctorterry and Smoothy like this.
  15. Smoothy
    Joined: Jun 18, 2015
    Posts: 338

    Smoothy
    Member

    Well folks, bad news. It seems my crankshaft has been deemed a P.O.S. it's a steel forged 1182 chevy crank that's already 30/30. After pulling it out of my blower motor block it's beat up bad. Now I'm only down to a few options.

    Here's what I've got for parts:
    1966 283 stock complete
    4.000 bore 350 Flat Top Pistons
    Another steel forged 350 crank that can be turned down to small journal.
    A 327 small journal crank with rods and .060 pistons
    1972 350 large journal 4 bolt Shortblock

    I'm thinking I'd like to make the 283 into a stroker, but here's the issues. If I were to take the 283 .125 over on the bore I could use the 350 crank, pistons, and rods and have a 350 cubic inch 283, which would be pretty badass IMO. But the question is, will my 283 handle the .125 bore job? Sonic test, yes I know. Just give me the odds that it will or won't. The 327 crank in the 283 would also be awesome but then you can't find performance pistons for the 307. I could always find 4.000 327 pistons though. Anyone have any suggestions? Anything would be appriciated. Even crank suggestions? Everything is snowballing into one big disaster here....
     
  16. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,392

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Is there a reason you can't use a cast crank
     
  17. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,445

    56sedandelivery
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A cast, 350 crank will be fine for almost anything you can throw at it; you really don't NEED a forged crank. I have one, but it would't be worth the shipping, even though it's just been turned; you should have one at the machine shop I would think. Unless you have access to some really high compression pistons and good rods, stay away from the small bore/short stroke motors (265/283). Mild 350 engine/TH350 trans combo with a 3500-4000 stall converter and some low gears, will get you into the high 12's/low 13's easily, and you won't need a scattershield-SFI clutch assembly in front of a 4 speed that'll just break parts (axles, gears, trans parts). You want to race, not always be replacing broken parts, and working on the power-train. You want to go "fast", but when you go fast you need a roll bar/roll cage, and there goes all the weight you took out of the car going right back in. You don't need a roll bar until 11.50 E.T., so keep that number in mind. The faster you go, the more experienced your competition is, and they WILL put you in your place (out in first round)! My last drag car was a rear motored Super comp dragster, an 8.90 index car; too many rules and safety equipment requirements finally caused me to sell the car; now I'm putting together a Sportsman Bracket car that'll run low 12's, and not need more than just the basic safety stuff (helmet, jacket, seat belts, drive-line loop, catch can, etc). I can sell you a new, light weight, forged, 350 crank, and new H-beam rods (no pistons at the moment for sale), and for pretty cheap too, but the more power you make, the stronger other parts have to be. You wanna play, you gotta pay; how much do you want to play? I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
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  18. Smoothy
    Joined: Jun 18, 2015
    Posts: 338

    Smoothy
    Member

    The deal is that I'm going to be turning this thing to 7500 pretty often and I just don't want the bottom end to come apart even after quite a bit of abuse. I could always go and buy a 383 scat crank internally balanced, but will I be able to turn it to the 7500 that I'm looking to pull with this gear and tire combo?
     
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  19. Smoothy
    Joined: Jun 18, 2015
    Posts: 338

    Smoothy
    Member

    You guys are right. For what I'm doing you guys are right, a cast crank will work out just fine. I plan on going with a 3.750 with stock 5.700 rods. When the car gets put on slicks the first thing to go will be the rear end anyways...
     
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  20. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 674

    Doctorterry
    Member

  21. Smoothy
    Joined: Jun 18, 2015
    Posts: 338

    Smoothy
    Member

    Its been a full two months since I've posted to the Hamb but it's also been quite some time since I've been able to work on my car due to the weather. My small block is completly disassembled and ready to get the full treatment. Today was the first day in a while that I was able to push the car out to work on it. I managed to remove the entire front clip and start on making my tilt front end. It will be a steel tilt nose, using the fenders and hood that are on the car. I have seen pictures of Kiwi Kev's 56 and it will be very similar to his setup. If anyone has any suggestions or info on how to make this task easier I'd love to hear it. Apart from that I'll be replacing the rear shocks, upgrading to a dual reservoir master cylinder, and chasing my loose steering column issue hopefully this week as well. 20160412_165209.jpg 20160412_190007.jpg 20160412_192130.jpg
     
  22. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,445

    56sedandelivery
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My old Pro Bracket 56 Chevrolet Utility Sedan had a tilt front end I built for it. In retrospect, it was one of the worse things I could of done to that car, but I was only 22 at the time and pretty much knew it all. I had bought a fiberglass nose for it, but it arrived "squeezed" down in the box, and when the fenders were pulled outwards, the hood would bow in; made them take it back. The trailing ends of the fenders are where the problem arises; they want to "drag" across the doors when the front is tilted, and it takes two people to do it right and avoid damage. So, make the "tilt" point as LOW as possible so "geometrically", it "throws" the fenders more forward with the lifting. To keep the front end secured, I used big truck, rubber, fender hold downs, but the front end would catch the wind and "blossom and lift" in the traps. What I would suggest, based on my experiences, is to just make a lift off hood. You're also going to find the front frame horns will either need to be shortened, or no grille used. My grille had pit pins, so it had to be removed before tilting the front end. I wish I could post pics, I have a ton of that car, and the tilt front end. Good luck. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
  23. Smoothy
    Joined: Jun 18, 2015
    Posts: 338

    Smoothy
    Member

    *ISO 55/56 Front Fiberglass Clip* preferably 56, but if a 55 is priced well enough I will consider.

    Now I could either use this steel front clip that I have made all into one piece or I can look all over for a fiberglass front clip to make this thing even lighter, which I would like to do. My big concern is that reality just smacked me in the face...I just realized that the Meltdowns are only a little over 2 months away and I haven't accomplished anything but taking things apart. Right now I'm looking at the list of things that I want to do, and the things I'll probably be able to get done by the meltdowns. Let's just say things aren't looking as good as they were a few months ago. It doesn't help when you have an add for an entirely rebuilt 55 chevy front axle complete with brakes & leaf springs for $200 from your local craigslist staring you in the face. Especially if it's likely that the entire front suspension will need rebuilt anyways.
     
  24. Smoothy likes this.
  25. Smoothy
    Joined: Jun 18, 2015
    Posts: 338

    Smoothy
    Member

    This is perfect, now how do I get it from Seattle to Springfield Illinois?
     
  26. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,445

    56sedandelivery
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I saw that glass front end a couple of weeks ago. I was going to call on it, but instead gave the info to a friend of mine who has glass doors; he also has one of my other Sedan Deliveries he's building into a Bracket Car. I'm surprised that ad is still up. The price can't be the issue, so the photo must be hiding something. After I built my steel tilt front end years ago, and returned the glass nose that was junk, I bought a used glass nose. It was in very good shape, was thick fiberglass, and I did a lot of extra reinforcing with fiberglass and wood; then I decided to sell it to a guy who offered me twice what I paid for it. It wound up on a 210, 4 door hardtop; I still wonder what happened to that car because it was in pretty good shape, other than the wrecked front end he was replacing. If that 55 front axle is from a truck, then it's just a little too wide for a Tri-Five car, but lots of guys have done it. It's not really going to shed any weight going that route, and handling will be an issue driving it on the street; it'll drive like a truck. Good luck, and keep posting.
    I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
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  27. Smoothy
    Joined: Jun 18, 2015
    Posts: 338

    Smoothy
    Member

    IMG_11691.jpg I tried calling the guy with the straight axle today and left a message and he hasn't gotten back to me yet. As for the tilt front end, if I do end up using the steel I'm going to make it to where the whole thing slides foward before tilting. I have found a fiberglass nose about 3 hours from me for $450 or trade for big block parts. Which I have practically none of. I think it early (1960s) and has a few places where it needs some work but could be worth it. Let me know what all your opinions are
     
    AHotRod likes this.
  28. II FUNNY
    Joined: Jul 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,838

    II FUNNY
    Member


    IMO I would leave the steel fenders and stock suspension...there were tons of tri fives that ran Stock, Modified production that mandated stock front suspension...and even the Gas classes were full of them with stock front suspensions. I'm building a gutted 55 with an axle, but would rather have a stocker...mine was too far gone though.
     
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  29. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,445

    56sedandelivery
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have to agree on the stock front suspension and sheet metal, but IF you have to do one of them, make it the fiberglass nose. It's really hard to tell in photos, but gel-coat cracks, and UV rays break fiberglass down, making it brittle. That price is more in line what I would expect to see. Can't help you out on BBC parts, I just gave away my stock, cast 454 rotating assembly, and my block/forged rotating assembly are with my machinist now. With what I have wrapped up in it so far, I'm should have stayed with my SBC stuff! It's easy to get carried away. Anyway, save your stock sheet metal for future use, find a glass nose and make it completely lift off. Stock, but modified front suspension is fine, and you can get it high enough for that "gasser" look. If your car was like II FUNNY describes his, then you could cut it up. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
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  30. chevy57dude
    Joined: Dec 10, 2007
    Posts: 5,893

    chevy57dude
    Member

    Smoothy - That 'glass nose is never gonna fit like steel, will get cracked & chipped because it's such a large moving part and doesn't save that much weight. Had two, sold 'em. Before you plunk down for one, see how it fits on YOUR car. 'Glass parts are still ''green'' for a while after they are pulled from the mold. The one Butch had probably wasn't fully cured in the right position then took a ''set'' in the wrong shape. One of mine was like that.
     
    AHotRod likes this.

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