The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by allanjon, Apr 18, 2019.
Luckily there is an infinite number of shades of white....
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All kidding aside, you couldn't have picked a shittier place to have to repair! There's a ton of stuff going on in those corner's of a tri five. A lot of opposing contours to deal with that makes it that much more complicated to get straight and to fill. There will be a lot of hand sanding. Also because of the relatively short radiuses' between the trunk lid, tailpan, and tail light, it's gonna be a bitch! Tight area's like that are very rigid. But with a port-a-power it will be easier. Do yourself a favor and remove the bumper, but leave the taillight in. That way you can get the trunk lid and taillight opening's to line up properly. Once you have the opening's fit correctly, you can put some filler on and sand your ass off on those miserable inside coroner's! The bumper's not a big deal, they repop those damn thing's every day! As far as the paint goes, try to break off a decent sized chip so you can have the paint supply scan the sample and make the correct shade of white. I know it sounds like a lot of B. S. to deal with, but it's really not that bad. You could probably have it straight in a day. That being said, it still beats replacing the quarter panel! JMHO tho.
On a small side note though, if they repopped full factory type '56 quarers it sure would be Nice!
Nice Car, But Be Careful . I bought a 56 Chevy 2dr. Bel Air Sedan off of eBay in 2013. I broke my own rule of not going to check it out before purchase. Pictures were great, new paint,new interior,new tires,wheels, all new chrome and fresh small block. I too was backing out of my garage. I forgot my wife’s car was in the driveway also. Hit her car about the area you did. No sweat, I removed rear bumper to repair area under passenger taillight 1/2”or more of Bondo decided to check around the quarters . Long story short, I found severe body rust all over. Ended up trying to chase it. It got worse and I cut it up this past December . If you can indeed fix that area, do so,and go no further. I hope you are successful.
Well actually the trunk is popped open, I removed the trunk latch as there is a little damage under the key, so I guess everyone thinks the trunk may have issues, it does not it ok, should be easy fix. Waiting for son to send paint thickness meter. ThanksAl
As far as paint match goes, if that is basecoat/clearcoat you should be be able to blend the base, and clear the whole panel or panels without too much trouble. One of the things I like about base/clear.
57Fargo I know that now that I am learning how to mix paint at work now. Bruce.
I have been told by many a good car friend over the last 30 yrs. that if bondo is used as it was intended, you could have a good repair that will last a long time. Now, what does “intended “mean? I had a good friend that was a body/paint man. He said that the correct way is to metal work the area as straight as you can and use only 1/4” or less of filler to feather and sand the area and primer. The guy who body worked my eBay bought 56’ Chevy that I recently cut up and scrapped was not a body man in my humble opinion. He was a Sculptor.
Yes, a 1/4" is the maximum recommended thickness. When applied over clean metal, as long as no moisture can get to it from behind, it will last a very long time. Some like to apply it over epoxy primer, but if you do that, remember it likes to stick best to 80 grit or rougher sandscratches.
Tried to make it work, but had to cut the seam, spread it out to were it should be, ordered the inner piece, plan on cutting out the rear quarter about 10 inches from opening and put in a filler piece. Comments ot ideas always welcome.
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