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55 Wagon door gaps

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by MP&C, Apr 28, 2012.

  1. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,477

    MP&C
    Member

    Pulled the door off again to fold the leading edge of the door skin. I had neglected it earlier as the fender was not installed. I prefer to compare between the two for better gaps.

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    As the gaps looked close, I used the existing fold and wrapped tight up to where the radius up top starts. The flange there is almost left straight, so it's hard to judge while on the car, as it hits the fender. I folded that one partially so it could be adjusted again, if need be.



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    Once installed again, with the upper flange not sticking straight forward and hitting the fender you can better judge the gap. Here I'll use a compass the add a parallel line on the front edge of the door. Keep in mind as you get higher on the door, keep the compass paralled with the side of the car, and not perpendicular to the fender edge, or the mark will get wider for an incorrect gap..

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    The compass mark will help to realign the fold for a more precise gap.. There was a widening at about the center of the radius, so some vice grips were used to "tweak" the flange around, until the compass mark is parallel to the new flange crease...

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    For the finished door gaps...

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    Now the typical tight area on these cars, the door to windshield post. These are too close at the top and will risk paint chips.

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    Time to use the compass again...

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    And a 4-1/2 sander trims it down to the line, also opening up the flange seam....

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    The seam is pinched together as it's welded...

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    The front and rear is sanded first to get rid of the bulk of the weld, then the edge is dressed up a bit..

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    Dressed, it will need one more weld bead down the edge and clean up again. Getting late this evening, so we'll save that for another day..

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  2. What gap are you generally looking to get to avoid chipping with a base-clear paint job? Thanks.
     
  3. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,477

    MP&C
    Member

    I shoot for right around 3/16. IMO 1/8 is too tight for a daily driver and will result in paint chips, and 1/4 looks too wide. But the biggest issue is to have consistency so the gaps are less noticed, less of an issue. When one gap is wide and another narrow, it really sticks out like a sore thumb..


    filling the low spots with a bit of weld.....


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    Dressing the welds...


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    All done with the gaps here...


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    Last edited: Mar 24, 2013
  4. As soon as I saw 55 I thought Chevy. I've never seen one yet that fit from factory. the bottom rear corner always need quarter panel adjustment IMHO
     

  5. mrconcdid
    Joined: Aug 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,156

    mrconcdid
    Member
    from Florida

    Question, ( my 53 chevy 2 door post) I have never trimmed panels to set the gaps, I am struggling with my passenger door, it is low in the back (near rear quarter panel) I have adjusted as much as I can using the slots in the doors and the slots in the hinges and its still to low, I loosen all the bolts, raise the door with a floor jack and tighten them, I lower the jack and the door settles to low.

    How would I fix this? Its the passenger door I would think it has less wear and tear on it than the driver side ( the driver side look fine ) Should I slot the adjustments holes more? replace the hinges or trim the door to fit? at what point do decide to trim? The stock hindges are a pocket style, this is the first time I have even worked with them. with all bolts tight I can barely lift the door by hand so I thinking the hinges arent worn completely out, and the striker will catch but it is also in the lowest position and you need to close it firmly.

    Nice repair on your 55

    Godspeed
    MrC.
     
  6. chaos10meter
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 2,191

    chaos10meter
    Member
    from PA.

    I always try to cut behind the rolled edge, saving it and use a filler strip to get the desired gap.
    That way you don't have to fool around making a new rolled edge and most / all your welding / sanding / body work is on a flat surface.
    Just the way I do it.
     
  7. larry k
    Joined: Feb 23, 2009
    Posts: 545

    larry k
    Member

    ALLWAYS SET THE GAPS AT 1/4" AND REMEMBER THE PRIMER AND PAINT AND CLEAR STACK UP ON BOTH PANELS ,YOU WILL COME OUT WITH YOUR 3/16" THAT YOUR LOOKING FOR,,,? :cool:
     

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