Technical 55 royal build, or how to build on a budget and not get put on the couch by your wife.

No worky guys........
I have looked at this and the cost of adapting the 8-bolt converter, with studs, to a 'normal' 6-bolt crank flange is huge. This is a complicated part and we don't have a flexplate to work with on these pre-62 converters.
No, I have not made such an animal on my dime and all of the folks who have asked about it are, for what ever reason, reluctant to pony up enough of a deposit ($1K) to start whittling on the part. Yes, it will be expensive and we still need a block adapter.....
It would be cheaper to buy and ship an engine from just about anywhere in the US to the great state of Texas but there is, no doubt, an engine available closer to home. Last I checked, there are about 27,000,000 in Texas so the odds are in the OP's favor.


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LOL well there ya go.

Hey I was taking a bath this morning and noticed that my belly button is missing has anyone got a spare just like mine that I could use until I find mine? Mine is a '54 but its a mid year so if you are from a ford family that would be perfect.

 

I was a little worried when I saw the first picture of the car sitting in the weeds, but it looks a lot better with the tires aired up sitting on the trailer. Like I said, I've had two of these and enjoyed 'em both (especially the pink, black, and white two door hardtop with a hemi I bought from the town drunk for $10). He had it parked at one of the local bars and couldn't get it started one cold Minnesota winter night. After a week of ultimatums from the owner, I made a hell of a deal. Solved his problem with a $10 bill and a set of jumper cables!

 

Are you sure the engine is turning not just the nut or the socket? Because if it will turn 1 inch it will run.

Oil up the cylinders and valves, let it soak for a week and try again. Use your favorite penetrating oil. If you can get it to turn 2 full turns put a battery in and spin it on the starter. Then go to work on spark and gas.

Or, take the heads off and see what is what. If it is stuck it may be a good sign, a worn out engine won't get stuck because there is plenty of room for rust. You may get away with rings, valves and bearing and might not even need bearings. Rust pitting in the cylinders is not a big deal unless there are potholes big enough to snag the bearings.

 

Cmac, I like your attitude and your honesty about your skill level.
Sometimes the best "skill" is knowing what your abilities are and are not. I've seen many people get in over their heads by starting with much more confidence than that should have.
I know what I know, and I defiantly know what I don't know. I'm never afraid of reading the instructions and doing the research before grabbing a tool.
I wish you luck with this project. You will do great with that attitude.
Tim

 

I pulled this 354 out of an airplane tug, it was 6 volt and was stuck. After soaking the cylinders with ATF and lacquer thinner, and with rocking the crank back and forth, it loosened up. We swapped the coil for a 12 volt unit, installed a good '94 carb and started it on 12 volts and it ran great. You could do the same by disconnecting the wiring to the car, and deal with the engine only.

 

Hey thanks man. What I lack is experience really. I have the mechanical inclination, just usually lacking funds and time.
The oilfield isn't doing so well and I'm looking at a lay off in the next few months.
I have a buddy that has a shop and he's trying to focus on custom stuff more.
Offered me a decent hrly rate to help me out if I get layed off.
I'll be poor but I'll be wrenching at least . Haha

 

Cmac79
I hear you brother. When the economy took a dump I had to take on side work to keep from loosing my house. Manufacturing hasn't fully recovered yet, so it's still a long haul. Thanks to the bank for giving me a hand up. Now I can concentrate on keeping my old Junkers on the road.
To Me half the fun is the search of the deal, and the adapting of something to make it fit. Then again I'm a prototype machinist making race car valve train. Hot rodding in it's essence is making due with what you have, and going faster for less money. Keep us posted on the progress.
Tim

 

Marty,

Just curious; I see the rocker covers have the dimples for the adjustable rockers. Did the engine actually have adjustable rockers? I have heard the quite a few industrial engines had the covers but not the rockers.

Tubman

 

Tubman, It did not have adjustables, just standard stuff.

 

Swap out the engine, transmission, rearend, put a MII front end with disc brakes and swap out that 4 door body for a 2 door.

Or change all the fluids put a gasket set in the carburetor, replace points condenser, rotor, cap plugs and wires, hook up a temp fuel source, a fresh 6 volt battery and drag it with a tow chain, remember you have to get up to about 25-30 mph..
If it's not broke internally it WILL start

 

Please,not a small boring chevy,the small block dodge is the exact same dimensions,even has the dist in the rear like brand x,but is a way better engine,and not a chevy. Bolt some class into a classy car.

 

Drop in a SBC they are a great engine save the 270 for your 55 Belair

 

Marty,

Interesting; thanks for the response. Looks like it's the case most of the time. Too bad.

Tubman

 

Finally got some time to pull the plugs and valve covers. Did an ATF/ Marvel oil mix and filled the cylinders and got the valve train too.
There is one lifter I can push down on with the pushrod, the rest are solid.
I'm gonna give it a day or two and see if I can get her to move.
I'll get it up in the air and take the starter off or at least see if it's engaged.

 

ah a semi hemi, good motors, not always recognized for as good as they were for the day

 

I'm really considering just tearing it down and doing a re-ring kit on it.
I don't know if the tranny is worth a shit. I'd hate to spend money on the rebuild, get it all together and have the tranny not work.
The nature of the beast though I guess.
I've read these trannies are pretty bullet proof though.
Then I start thinking, well if I'm gonna have it tore down might as well put a can and lifters in it. Ofcourse might as well put new springs and on and on ..
The master kit is friggin 1500 bucks.

 

New sbc crate $2000.

 

I've really thought about it.
I'm really leaning towards keeping the drive train as is.
It just adds "flavor" to the ride.
It's really gone be a funds issue though.
I'm already putting together everything I can sale to get funds to get her on the road. Lol
1911
Kids
Xs400
Wife
Dog

 

I bought a "stuck" 350 Chev Chris Craft marine conversion (in the '63 CC Sea Skiff) that turned out be stuck because the starter was engaged, and the armature had rusted to the field coils in the housing because the boat sat outside and the bilge was full of water to the floor. Not that it pertains to you, but the engine was a brand new crate long block that hadn't been fired, the owner put the project on hold and it sat outside for 2 years. The point is, try to get the engine unstuck, it might be something simple, and it certainly will be easier, cheaper, and more satisfying than trying to "drop in" a 350/350 combo that will require much fabrication. If you're a first time builder, there's no such thing as an easy engine swap, don't let the project overwhelm you. Many of us have years of ruining old cars under our belts, and things that to some of us are "easy", others find impossible. Just say'n...
(Oh, that CC 350 has been powering our '54 Sportsman for 10 years now, with no problems)

 

My 51 Plymouth Cambridge the builder used a doner car. Dodge diplomat. He used the slant 6 , transmission, and rear end.

 

CMac, I hope it come unstuck for you. Hopefully it will and you can test out the trans before you spend all your cash on a re-ring kit.
It only needs to run for a short time to see what's going on. Or that matter it doesn't even need to run well.
Don't let anyone fool you with the off the cuff guesstimates for cranking pressure to run. Ive always heard it won't start with less than 100 psi. I've got a wore out 283 with a decent cam. The rings are toast, only hitting on 7 cylinders. When I pulled the heads I had no idea there was such thing as steel shim gaskets. Just matched up what was in it. Long story short. With the motor hot, compressions reads about 45 psi and it still chirps the tires. Burns 6 quarts of oil to the tank of gas, but it least it drives till my new motor is done.
My point it, it doesn't have to be perfect, it's just gotta run. If the trans is golden, that power plant is worth time time and money just for the cool factor.
I'd rather have a dirty smoking nothing special 270 with the hood open than a chromed small block with the hood shut. That's just me though.
Have at it!

 

The photo doesn't look all that bad. Once you have it on a rack you can check the starter and rotate the assembly with 'something' on the ring gear.
As for parts, buy just want you need when you need it......


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The Hemi heads will bolt right up also,heads,intake etc.

 

my 55 royal lancer

 

First off, mow that lawn. When you say the hemi stuff will bolt right up what other changes are required if any.

 

FIND A 318 if your motor is stuck. They are cheap.

 

To convert you need the complete head assembly, etc., push rods, and ex mans. The valve reliefs are different, but Polys have been found with hemi pistons from the factory & vice versa, probably didn't matter with a low lift cam. Check out the Hemi Tech Index.

 

Got the trunk open.
We have decided to just yank the motor and tranny. Pull it apart and at least to a ring job and bearings. This way I can clean the engine and compartment up too.
Found the hub caps in the trunk in great shape.