Do you have any pics , or any problems with the drive shaft rubbing? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I do not have any pics of the clearance but due to the angle of the blocks, there is plenty of room and no rubbing. Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So the other day I got my kit in the mail to switch the 6 volt setup to 12 volt. All went pretty smooth, except once I started digging into the electrical, I nearly shit myself in amazement that this car hasn't been up in flames yet. I found numerous wires behind the dash that were bare copper wire that were merely wrapped with electrical tape however many years ago. I found bare copped splices looses spun around wires to junction in with NO insulation of any kind. And finally when I pulled my headlights, found completely exposed and deteriorated wire housing wrapped in electrical tape as well... Being that I'm an electrician by trade, this ultimately just infuriated me, so I finished the swap, ordered a new wiring kit, and parked her until it gets here... Talked about being frustrated Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Ok thanks , how about room between the frame does it bottom out and where did you get your blocks from ? Sorry so many questions but that's all Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I would say only 3 or 4 inches between frame and axle bumpers. If I let all the air out of the shocks it will lay on the axle bumpers. Its a comfortable ride. I also have 5:60 15's to help with the ride height. Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I found the blocks at a swap meet. Just a local guys parts box. Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Very nice ride!! For some reason I always preferred a customline with a "California Rake" (nose down) but that's just personal taste as it's your car, not mine. LOL!
My EZ wiring kit came in the mail this week. Hopefully this all goes smooth and gets back on the road this week Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Wiring is going good. Got about 2 hours into it. Most of the time was figuring out the best way to run the wires to the rear. With the way that Ford originally ran the tail light and fuel sender wires, I had to extend the left side tail light and fuel sending wire a hair because they wouldn't make it all the way into the trunk. Going to start on the dash when I get home and hopefully finish today. Need to get heat shrink. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Almost all the universal wiring kits are "GM friendly" this creates an issue in these 50's Fords because the GM cars headlight switches are different from the Fords,GM has two "hot" leads and Fords use only one. Contact EZ wiring Tech for info some the guys in the 1952-59 Ford Group that used Rebel Wire did that. Or if you have this: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Book-How-To-Wire-Your-Street-Rod,2824.html
You will need this for your gauges: http://restorationpartssource.com/s...EscGcMtwAJf4zC9PkB2H8sBC8-w29uDxoCwscQAvD_BwE
I have a 12v to 6v reducer. That was actually a question I was going to ask. Do I need to use it, or can I run 12v to gauges? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You need to use the one in the link I posted,a regular reducer 12 to 6 volt will not function with the fuel gauge the one in the link will handle all three gauges. If you run 12 volts to the gauges without the one I posted they will end up toast the one in the link is under $20,DO IT Right.
These were originally wired to 6v with no regulator or reducer, is there a reason a 6v reducer wouldn't work? Haven't heard that yet or seen it. Very curious. Thanks for the info Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Wiring all done for now, will post a pic soon, but for now I just want to drive this thing while I can, before I tear into the front end. Ventura Nationals are coming up and need her running until then! I may or may not have somehow lost the brake light circuit somewhere along the floor before it made it too my trunk... so I need to pull the carpet up and look for it. I'm 99% I didn't trim it so I'm not sure where it went. I taped it all up before install and double checked, but I guess shit happens. We will see! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks man! She needs a lotta work but she's coming together. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Ignore the battery cable ugliness. That will all be sorted out. Here's a rough install pic gallery. Kind of want to change it up a bit. We will see. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I really like how this car looks all white with the www and black wheels and chrome caps. Smooth.....
Wiring looks good! I ran the wires to the rear of the car right down the middle of the car, to the right side of the trans hump. I made up a harness board to replicate the dash locations. I had 2 major legs going out the firewall, one for engine and one for lights. Summit makes a nice braided wire wrap that neatened up things a bunch and I can access the wiring to add or change things if I need to. Half the price of what Painless sells. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890341/overview/
Hey bobss396, what's with the wilwood reservoir to the right of your brake MC? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yup. That's how the factory ran power to the rear. There's an indented wire track specifically for it that goes from the cent front of the dash all the way to the rear seats and then into the left side inner wall of the quarter panel. I followed suit and taped up the whole run and utilized all the factory wire holders. Works well and don't even notice it's there. Can barely even feel it. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
