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Hot Rods 55 customline rear end swap

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by daniel gallocker, Apr 6, 2021.

  1. daniel gallocker
    Joined: Dec 29, 2020
    Posts: 65

    daniel gallocker
    Member



    THANK You. Good to know. I have a buddy with an 8.8 rear out of an 04 crown Vic he is willing to give to me. He has a shaft too and it’s connected to an AOD e sadly so I can’t take bis AOD but the other two should work?


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  2. Any aftermarket wheels you buy will have large enough center holes. This would only be an issue if using OEM Ford wheels or some other brand OEM with the same bolt pattern. Ford used the same hub diameter '49-67/68, they enlarged the hub diameter starting in '68 across most of the lines, then in '71 enlarged the hubs on the full-size cars yet again.
     
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  3. daniel gallocker
    Joined: Dec 29, 2020
    Posts: 65

    daniel gallocker
    Member

    It’s a crown Vic my bad, I had originally said town car. Looking up measurements now


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  4. daniel gallocker
    Joined: Dec 29, 2020
    Posts: 65

    daniel gallocker
    Member

    Looks like the crown Vic rear end track is listed at 65, much more then the 57 ish I’ll need, but it’s free. So I’m sure paying someone to chop it and weld as I don’t have a welder would probably still be cheaper. And it’s a free rear disc upgrade and I’ll have a parking brake again. Thoughts and or opinions?

    The drive shaft he said I can have too so I just gotta find a non electric AOD, unless anyone thinks whatever electronics are on his car I could use on mine to make that trans work? If not then my
    Hunt for a non electric AOD is on.


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  5. Stay away from the electronic crap....
     
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  6. Nope. The explorer and mountaineer ones only. The reason being: all you have to do is narrow one side of the rear end, and use 2 short side axles and you're the right width. Crown vic you're gonna have to narrow both sides and then it's gonna be hell trying to get axles that work. Just Google and YouTube shortening an explorer 8.8. It's the easiest, cheapest way to go and upgrade.

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  7. Look for an AOD. Not an AOD-E. And i believe the trans pan is different for an aod-e if you need to identify one in the field.
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  8. daniel gallocker
    Joined: Dec 29, 2020
    Posts: 65

    daniel gallocker
    Member



    Ok will do. I’ve never welded so I’ll have to take that to a pro but hey one weld should be cheaper then two right lol. Let’s see what the pick a parts have. Is there a year I shouldn’t go beyond I believe you said late nineties would be good is there a year you know of that it changed ? I’ll see what I can find online in regards to that.

    Yeah as far as the AOD goes def doing AOD only. I have found a guy who can get me a good used one with a torque converter for under a grand, he said maybe around 750. Not expecting it to last forever at that price but I know that when it does eventually start slipping or anything I can have it nicely rebuilt by my technician friend.


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  9. There's a cutoff in the early 2000s for width changes. It's easy to look up what years will work, and there's even the info to look at the door sticker of the explorer or mountaineer and tell the gear ratio and limited slip or not. As for the trans situation, budget and do it once. Buy once, cry once. Spend the cash for a good trans that will last you 20 years. I know in the bay area, I cant get an AOD built for under 1k or so. And that's with a rebuild able core. There's certain pins and shit that wear out in AODs that mess up the trans case, and they will wear out in even low mileage trans. But if you take the time to budget for these big ticket items (rear end, trans, motor, etc.) And do them the right way, in the end you will have a 56 ford that will drive almost as good as the shittiest honda you've ever driven, and you will have only spent about 20k more than the most expensive honda you've driven.

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  10. daniel gallocker
    Joined: Dec 29, 2020
    Posts: 65

    daniel gallocker
    Member

    Im all about that.

    So in regards to an AOD, what would you recommend? I have no way of telling the condition if I open it up to be honest. Is it better to pay like 1800$ for one of those done by gear masters or whatever ? Or buy the cheaper one, guy even said he might be able to do it for 600 bucks. And then have that one rebuilt ?


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  11. daniel gallocker
    Joined: Dec 29, 2020
    Posts: 65

    daniel gallocker
    Member

    Also I got no problem going to the bay to have one built lol. Im in Los Angeles and truth be told I don’t know any mechanics or
    Anything here. I have a mechanic in Orange County about an hour south that I take my daily to for maintenance that I can’t perform. Though I’m sure there’s gotta be at least one honest non rip off merchant trans builder in Los Angeles too I’d hope


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  12. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 9,472

    jimmy six
    Member

    My 8.8 flat plate on the diff was replaced with a standard yoke. I have 2.74 gear which are no longer available new. Using a 62 cruise-0-matic make all of it work great. If your not wanting rear discs mine has F-150 11” by 2-1/4” drums. There are a lot of options. The shop building mine, J&S gear in Huntington Beach also removed a lot of cast iron off the center area. .
     
  13. Any transmission sho0 should be able to take care of the rebuild. The only problem is finding a rebuild able core. I would just grab one from not a mustang and go from there. If they tell you the case is bad at the trans shop after that, look into buying another trans. Cores are not that expensive.

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  14. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 8,896

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    The best non electric AOD's were from 1989-93 these had all the lubrication upgrades and improved valve body. The 1994 and later AODE is a beefier transmission and you can get a stand alone controller ( Quick 2). To learn more about these transmissions click on this link: https://www.becontrols.com/aode.shtml
     
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  15. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 8,896

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    The Crown Vic rear is too wide at 63.3" track width the 1949-56 Ford car track width is 57.25" 1993-2009 Ford Ranger 8.8" is 58.5" if you also use the Ranger steel wheels that are also 15" the offset will bring them further into the wheel well gaining you some additional clearance over your stock wheels.
     
  16. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,632

    Roothawg
    Member

    I bought a driveshaft out of a Crown Vic, it should be long enough. I wanted to keep the plate on the 8.8. That way motor, tranny, drive shaft and rear end are all 2000 Ford Explorer. Simplifies things at the parts counter.
     
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  17. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,632

    Roothawg
    Member

    I have a guy I trust . His name is Mitch Maciel . Check with him and tell him I sent you. Not sure how far you are from him.
    https://m.yelp.com/biz/astromotive-auto-service-lawndale

    If he can’t do it, he will know a straight shooter that can.
     
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  18. daniel gallocker
    Joined: Dec 29, 2020
    Posts: 65

    daniel gallocker
    Member

    Thanks. Lawndale is totally do able for some one I can build a relationship with. The guy I found selling transmissions told me he will have a few aods for $500 with a torque converter. And then have that rebuilt before I drop it in I gotta start looking for markings I guess to try and find one from earlier years


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  19. daniel gallocker
    Joined: Dec 29, 2020
    Posts: 65

    daniel gallocker
    Member

    Wow thanks for that.
    With that unit I could essentially pay 585 for that quick 4 and the AODE from my friend is free, and they have a rebuild kit for $200 as well so I could buy that both from them and be able to take the trans and drive shaft off of him and link it to an explorer rear end. Thank you very much for that.


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  20. tbirddragracer
    Joined: Jul 25, 2013
    Posts: 89

    tbirddragracer
    Member

    Y-Block stress for an 8.8" as requested
     
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  21. 97DCF31F-55CB-492F-8142-C45F3F253C57.jpeg This is the 8.8 going into my 56 with a 390,its 58.5” wide and the stock steel wheels bolt on, it was $200 delivered .A 58” wide 9” was $500 and about an hour from me. This was a no brainer.
     
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  22. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 9,472

    jimmy six
    Member

    Rich T...The shop that did mine ground off all the extra cast iron on the center section. My photo installed is on the first page.

    If your going to use the stock e-brake as I did drill the holes in the new backing plates to match the 56. I believe they are metric and the 56 is 9/16”. My stock cable ends worked on the internal arm too.
     
  23. daniel gallocker
    Joined: Dec 29, 2020
    Posts: 65

    daniel gallocker
    Member

    Good evening guys


    So I listened to all the suggestions and thanks to you guys I went to a junkyard about 30 miles away from me that had 9 explorers there. I went on a Friday, and checked out all of them and first eliminated 4 of them that were pre 1995 as I wanted disc brakes on the rear as well. I also looked up on that ranger station website and watched a few YouTube videos. As everyone said, all the axle tags were missing on all the axles. So I resorted to the door codes, and the chart on the ranger website. Of the four or 5 left, two of them were a open, 2. Something, I didn’t want that. One of them was a 4.10 I believe and I was kinda tempted but the other two were the limited slip 3.78 which from the suggestions and some calculators with the gear ratios input from the aode and the wheel size and then the diff I decided the 3.78 would be the best for my use of the car.

    I knew I couldn’t do this on my own, at least lifting and moving it. I found a guy there at the junkyard that ended up pretty much taking it out and carting it to my car for some cash, that was a huge break.

    We cracked open the first one before we took it out and we noticed there was some wear on the diff cover plate and the outside ring of the bigger gear had some wear on it. So we went to this one that I ended up picking, off a 99 explorer. 3.78 limited slip, according to the code at least. We cracked it open and the fluid came out good and gold, not black, and there was no wear at all, well nothing I could see and I got as close as I could.

    I got it home and on some jack stands now. From what I can tell I am going to have it chopped to 56 inches and have to get the left side axle for the new shortened right side. Im gonna buy some new discs and pads, and paint the calipers myself while ive got em out. I’ll have to degrease it and scrub it down, then I am going to open the case up and manually count the gears to verify the 3.78. Im gonna order a new case with more space and a new gasket and bolts for that. Then I’ll rust treat/ coat it.

    Someone had mentioned por15 but I have done some review research and it does look nice but I don’t think it will hold up on the underbody, i mean it’s not in bad shape but I just figure if I have it out and free to work on, I might as well take as many steps to 1. Prevent any rust 2. Make it look pretty and new.

    I have seen a few other suggestions like chassis saver I believe and someone had mentioned using that first and then something along the lines of “a111” on as a top coat. Any one got some successful recipes ?


    IMG_9146.JPG IMG_9147.JPG IMG_9148.JPG IMG_9149.JPG


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  24. AldeanFan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2014
    Posts: 737

    AldeanFan

    Good choice on the 8.8,
    The gear ratio should be stamped on both the outside of the ring gear and on the face of the pinion.

    I always paint mine with rustoleum, it holds up great and is easy to touch up if needed.


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  25. daniel gallocker
    Joined: Dec 29, 2020
    Posts: 65

    daniel gallocker
    Member

    Hello guys


    So I took the cover off and counted the splines and saw the stamp. I do indeed have a good looking 3.78

    I took the brakes off and popped out the axles and counted the splines and I got the 31 one splines so everything matched up!!!!


    I just ordered a wire brush kit full of brushes and a drill attachment. It’s in decent shape so I don’t need to sand it. Gonna mix some degreaser with warm water and clean all the insides. Then spray a whole can of wd40 in there lol.

    Then I gotta take it to a specialist and do the chop, still searching for someone inthe la area.


    Once is back I’ll re assemble with new brake lines, diff case cover, brake components.

    As far as the brakes go has anyone got any secret recipes to clean em? Can I soak em ? (The calipers) I keep getting mixed reviews on weather to degrease first then use brake cleaner or vice versa


    Once I get it back and painted I’ll upload more progress


    Dan


    IMG_9239.JPG 64238577964__C7EFBB90-EDB2-49E7-AB10-714424CEBBFD.JPG IMG_9242.JPG IMG_9240.JPG IMG_9238.JPG IMG_9243.JPG IMG_9246.JPG


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  26. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 9,472

    jimmy six
    Member

    Looks good, some grinding off of not needed mounts and a clean up. A yoke is available for a standard u-joint for 8.8’s a Mark Williams product. I think mine takes a 1350 u-joint. Having the e-brake cables is a plus too.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2021
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  27. daniel gallocker
    Joined: Dec 29, 2020
    Posts: 65

    daniel gallocker
    Member

    Does anyone have any idea about pinion angles ? Im reading on that ranger site and it was talking about those being very important when setting up the rear end. According to him he called Ford and was told 6 degrees but that’s for a long bed ranger. I have no clue I may have to call Ford just don’t know if they will know what’s correct for my application

    Dan


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  28. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,632

    Roothawg
    Member

  29. 51504bat
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,869

    51504bat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Then I gotta take it to a specialist and do the chop, still searching for someone in the la area.

    Bill Thomas Enterprises
    909-888-7949
    billthomasenterprises.com
     
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  30. daniel gallocker
    Joined: Dec 29, 2020
    Posts: 65

    daniel gallocker
    Member

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