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Projects 55 210 Wagon Progress

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by MP&C, Mar 24, 2013.

  1. Thanks for taking the time - sharing your skill and tips.
     
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  2. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,189

    MP&C
    Member

    Today we were working on more interior parts for Gary to upholster. Here is the design for the trim rings for our speakers, the cutaway shows the relief on the bottom which provides clearance for stainless mesh. This should provide a more 55 correct grill for the speakers than the plastic ones it came with. My cousin JB is making the trim rings for us..




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    Mike trimmed out the slots we previously had for the bass speaker, it will also get the trim ring and mesh treatment.




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    We drilled holes in the rear kick panel arm rest for panel clips to hold the arm rest down. I thought these would be a better option than the wire clips..




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    We also needed an escutcheon for our seat belt to pass through the arm rest, as the retractor is located behind the kick panel. Not finding much in the local salvage yard but plastic to choose from, and little in aftermarket, we opted to make a sample out of steel to insure the seat belt buckle and harness support would pass through. We will make the final version out of stainless and polish them..




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    Cleaned up and "polished" with Scotchbrite rolocs to simulate what the stainless should look like..




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    In our arm rest two clearance holes are drilled, then a cut made between the two. Next, the two "tabs" are hammered downward to provide the void needed for the escutcheon such that they are tight enough to hold it in place.




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  3. Great stuff as always, Robert. Hope you can take a little break and enjoy the holidays. Best wishes for a healthy, happy and prosperous 2019 as well.................Don.
     
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  4. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 22,061

    loudbang
    Member

    When and if this is ever done what are you going to do with all the spare time you have LOL. :)
     
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  5. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,189

    MP&C
    Member

    I do have a few dents to fix on this Divco...


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  6. patsurf
    Joined: Jan 18, 2018
    Posts: 245

    patsurf

    you,sir,are keeping a VERY stiff upper lip!!
     
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  7. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 2,560

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    Unfortunately, I can not view the new pictures you have posted in the last week! :(:(:(
     
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  8. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 22,061

    loudbang
    Member


    Work ok for me on a PC
     
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  9. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 2,560

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    I'm on a PC also, but these photo hosting sites aren't worth a shit IMHO!
     
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  10. Oldioron
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 842

    Oldioron
    Member

    The last 55 Chevy I did I had 2000 hrs in body and paint. I seamed like the metal work was never ending. All I had was a roof and a cowl and they were not rust free.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2018
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  11. Again, a mind blowing level of detail and craftsmanship....
     
  12. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,189

    MP&C
    Member

    Best wishes to everyone for a healthy and prosperous New Year!

    Some wagon updates, we've been tying up loose ends to get parts ready for upholstery and the roof ready for paint. With the arm rest details ironed out, E is unbolting the kick panels so we can cut out the speaker holes. Mike is getting the roof skin blocked out..

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    Here's the last detail for the console, we still need our latching mechanism. To keep a minimalist approach, we're going to flush recess some rare earth magnets in the lid, so here's our "pockets" that will be welded into the lid. Starting with some .065 wall tubing the end was faced on the lathe, and the end plates turned to a welding diameter of slightly undersized than the tubing, which allows for a good fusion weld.

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    Tacked:

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    Fusion welded using the TIG:

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    10-32 hex nut for magnet attachment is tacked on....

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    Trimmed to size...

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    The material scraps shown were to simulate what will be covering the console and lid for the "pull test". Three magnets appeared to work too well, so we are going drill holes and weld in our recess pockets to use two magnets but leave a space in the center for a third, just in case... Once welded and fitted we'll do one more pull test just to make sure the third one isn't needed..

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    We also had some parts water jetted out of stainless for our seat belt escutcheons, this should help us get better consistency between parts.....and save time..

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    Last edited: Jan 2, 2019
  13. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 8,040

    belair
    Member

    You have used up ALL the superlatives a long time ago. I just look and am amazed.
     
  14. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,189

    MP&C
    Member

    We got the holes added in the console lid for the pocket recesses.....






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    A bent fender washer and 3/16 rods serve to hold the pockets in place while tacked in with the TIG....






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    Test fit of the magnets...






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    Video of the console lid, testing the magnet pull for our latching method..















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  15. ^^^ Very cool!
     
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  16. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 14,089

    alchemy
    Member

    I'm really sad that I can't see the latest pictures.
     
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  17. Cosmo49
    Joined: Jan 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,099

    Cosmo49
    Member

    Six years of work, how many hours?
     
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  18. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,283

    flatford39
    Member

    The owner of this car has the deepest pockets I have ever seen. Your work is exceptional but really beyond my budget and about 95% of the HAMB. When do you shoot the final color??? If you did and I missed it I apologize.
     
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  19. rockable
    Joined: Dec 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,619

    rockable
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Robert, I just discovered this thread after being away for a while and spent a lot of time this week going through it. I have visited Metal Meet and other metal shaping forums and they all have some pretty good information there and a wealth of talent. However, a lot of it is about making things from scratch, not repairing and fixing old cars like this 55. This is by far the best tutorial I have seen on car restoration metal techniques! I have bookmarked it and will use it as a reference when I start my '49 Buick project.

    Thanks for creating this thread and for taking the time to document and explain every detail You are obviously a patient man. It impresses me that you stop to make a tool or devise a way to make a part without "plowing ahead". The ample amount of scrap you created on some things, show you won't stop until you get it right. Bravo!
     
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  20. 0NE BAD 51 MERC
    Joined: Nov 12, 2010
    Posts: 968

    0NE BAD 51 MERC
    Member

    Robert, great job as always. But you know I have been following this build and talking with you since the tri five .com days back in 05 or 06 and your skills keep getting more fantastic all the time. The problem is the better you get the more you go back and redo stuff you did on it years ago! lol You got to stop improving your skills, or you will never get it done! lol Happy New Year my friend . Larry { formally L&L Custom Performance}
     
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  21. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,189

    MP&C
    Member

    Obviously not enough, still plugging away at it... soon, I promise... :confused:

    One more evolution :fingerscrossed: of blocking the roof and we should be painting the top side..

    Thanks guys, yeah, more than once I've redone something to get the outcome I was looking for. Practice, practice....
     
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  22. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,189

    MP&C
    Member

    Dotting the i's, crossing the t's... The insert for the bottom side of the console lid will be held in with a couple of 10-32 screws into a rivet nut. To insure the rivet nut is flush on the outside for the installation of upholstery, we want to provide a slight recess for the rivet nut flange. Here's the punch and die we made for the occasion, the bottom die is machined on the side to keep things from moving when clamped in the vise.

    South Bend milling machine:

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    action shot:



    inner parts installed...

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    ready for powder coat / epoxy primer, whichever comes first...

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  23. jfreakofkorn
    Joined: Apr 13, 2010
    Posts: 2,640

    jfreakofkorn
    Member

    nice craftsman and attention to detail
     
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  24. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,189

    MP&C
    Member

    Picked up the console from the powder coater, the outside was done in satin black and will be covered in upholstery, the inside parts were done in wrinkle finish, this will be their "covering"






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    Tonight we worked on some stainless for our seat belt escutcheons..






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    Some measurements and geometry from high school should get us the correct size from the onset...






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    Using the mag brake and a 3/4 tube to bend our radius...






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    Tacked together using the TIG






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    Got running late and missed some pictures, but here's the part welded up and polished..













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  25. I know that I should have paid more attention in H.S. Geometry class.:rolleyes::D
     
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  26. Thanks again for a great compilation of advanced metalwork techniques Robert, I never miss a post. I finally "took the plunge", predominantly driven by your incredibly educational contributions here and elsewhere, and had Santa bring me a Miller Syncrowave 200 for Christmas. I've been practicing every chance I get and have a technical question for you. I used to be heavily involved with high purity piping fabrication and remember when TIG welding stainless pipe it was critical to establish and maintain an inert purge on the backside of the weld to avoid "sugaring" the inside of the pipe. I've been attempting to join scraps of 20 and 22 gauge 304 SS sheet and the backsides of the welds look terrible because of this sugaring/carbon oxidation porosity. I don't see that you have that issue with these beautiful escutcheons. Any thoughts on what I am doing wrong? Do you setup a backside purge during the full pen weld?
    Thanks again!
     
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  27. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,189

    MP&C
    Member

    A full penetration weld will require a backside purge, I cheated on these and did not do a full penetration weld to better eliminate the sugaring issue. I didn't see these as structural, so was looking more at cosmetics in this case.
     
  28. Thanks Robert. Got any tips on backside purging sheet in general, and butt welds on lite gauge sheet in particular? Or is that another situation to avoid whenever possible like patch panels with no access for planishing?
     
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  29. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,189

    MP&C
    Member

    I'm not familiar with any fixtures that you would use on thin sheet, if you're talking about stainless. I know the companies making stainless kitchen counters for the commercial market would have to experience this. Perhaps look up sanitary stainless welding and see what that turns up. There are I believe dual port regulators that would let you have the option of purging the backside/inside...
     
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  30. True that! :)

    Robert your work is as always ~ impeccable. HRP
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2019
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