Register now to get rid of these ads!
  1. NEW MERCH!!!!!!

    Hey guys... It's that time of the year again and we are introducing some new shirts in the Jalopy Journal store - including our first ever pocket shirt! So, if you are in the need for some new threads go here:
    The Jalopy Journal Store
    Dismiss Notice

Projects 54 Ford Customline daily driver

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by GreenGrenade, Jul 24, 2016.

  1. Martino
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 236

    Martino
    Member

    Grill is looking good! I removed the bumperettes and the center section on mine also.
     
  2. Martino
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 236

    Martino
    Member

    To funny ! We are making similar changes to our cars. I also removed the three speed shifter from column but I would really like to use a better looking steering wheel. Just can't figure out what would fit the column? Any suggestions?
     
  3. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,109

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Im using a 49 wheel and a 50 horn ring. Mercury had some cool steering wheels i was looking at as well but they are pricey when you find one in good shape. I still need to extend the end of the cup about 5/8" to fill the gap for my 49 wheel as wel


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  4. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 2,342

    The 39 guy
    Member

    I have been enjoying your build thread. Thanks for the detailed explanations and candor!
     
  5. Martino
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 236

    Martino
    Member

    I just saw your pics of the wheel and horn ring your using. Looks great and I like the looks of it! Is the wheel diameter smaller than the stock wheel? My stock wheel is Huge !
     
  6. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,109

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    The 49 wheel is the same diameter as the stock 54. I believe its like 17" or something like that

    Got the front suspension disassembled, engine bay cleaned and sanded then masked it off and sprayed some satin black..

    IMG_1927.JPG IMG_1928.JPG IMG_1929.JPG IMG_1931.JPG IMG_1932.JPG

    Paint was still wet during the pics, it dries to a nice satin finish though
     
    Icufltrn likes this.
  7. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,109

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Heres the satin all dried

    IMG_1933.JPG

    Stripped the engine down and repainted it since i had peeling issues before. Heres a few pics of it almost all buttoned up

    IMG_1958.jpg IMG_1959.jpg IMG_1960.jpg IMG_1961.jpg IMG_1962.jpg
     
    brEad and The 39 guy like this.
  8. greaser 35
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 491

    greaser 35
    Member
    from FRANCE

    Jolie!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  9. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,109

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Welded an extension on to the column to fill the gap that the '49 wheel had between the stock column. Heres a pic of it welded and ground but forgot to take a pic of it all sanded n metalfinished

    IMG_1972.JPG
    IMG_1975.JPG

    Got the control arms cleaned and some paint slapped on em. Also got the new ball joints in and the bushings into the lower control arms. I had issues and ended up messsing up the bushings for the upper arms so i have a new set ordered from carpenter on the way. Anyone have any tips for the bushing install in the upper arms?

    IMG_1980.JPG
     
  10. Martino
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 236

    Martino
    Member

    Did you have to heat up the control arms and use a press to get the old bushings out?
     
    47 ford likes this.
  11. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,109

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    loudbang likes this.
  12. Martino
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 236

    Martino
    Member

    Sounds good !
     
  13. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,109

    Shane Spencer
    Member

  14. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,109

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Got the bushings in, major pain in the rump but there in. Suspension is going back together, control arms in, new shocks, swaybar bushings and endlinks, ball joints etc

    IMG_2044.JPG IMG_2041.JPG

    Question about the ball joints. If anyone can help on this asap id appreciate it so i can button up this front end. Heres the seals and cups on the upper ball joint. Does this look correct?

    IMG_2039.JPG

    And heres the lower ball joint. The grease cup isnt really squished tho. I dont know if this is normal or not. Here is a pic of it

    IMG_2037.JPG

    But heres what seems strange. I can pull the grease boot down, its not really depressed by the spindle. Im not sure if itll be fine once the grease is in it but it seems a tad loose now

    IMG_2038.JPG

    Any opinions are appreciated
     
  15. Martino
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 236

    Martino
    Member

    It doesn't look like it's tightened up and the cotter key isn't installed yet.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  16. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,109

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Thats as far down on the lower ball joint shaft as the spindle will go. Also, the cotter pins fit in both the upper and lower castle nuts perfectly even tho there not installed yet


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    loudbang likes this.
  17. Martino
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 236

    Martino
    Member

    I have a bad feeling if the castle nuts are tightened all the way and the boot doesn't squish any that ball joint may not be the right one? Sounds like the shaft is to long or there isn't enough threads to allow the nut to go down more?
     
  18. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,109

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    The nut tightens down exactly to where it should and allows the cotter pin to slide in. I also compared it to the stock ball joint and it is the same thing. If anything i feel like i might be missing a metal dust shield or something because it looks like there was a thicker one that went on the lower ball joint to make up that room but it didnt come in the kit


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  19. Martino
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 236

    Martino
    Member

    What about a spacer/sleeve? do you remember if the old one had something like that?
     
  20. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,109

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    I read the directions that came with the drop spindle/disc conversion and it stated that there was a spacer needed there with those spindles so i just used a couple grade 8 washers to space it out and keep some pressure on the grease boot. Hahah sometimes it pays to read directions. Anywho the whole disc conversion and drop spindles went on smoothly

    IMG_2047.jpg

    Gotta paint the drag link and install the new tie rods tomorrow and the front end will be pretty much buttoned up
     
  21. Martino
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 236

    Martino
    Member

    Well there you go !
    Had to be something that simple !
    Oh trust me I have been there with just reading some paperwork sometimes !!
    Glad you figured it out because it helps all of us !!
    Keep up the awesome work!
     
  22. Martino
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 236

    Martino
    Member

    Today I was attempting to make fuel lines for the 292 for my Ford. These were my first attempt but have to do them again. IMG_20170318_173413624.jpg
     
    MOTOV8N likes this.
  23. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,109

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Couple updates. Heres the column and column drop with the shifter tube shaved...

    IMG_2069.JPG
    IMG_2070.JPG

    I ended up welding the upper half of the column drop to the column. Gotta metal finish it and smooth it out

    Got the flywheel resurfaced...

    IMG_2072.JPG

    Got the rebel wire harness mounted

    IMG_2075.JPG IMG_2076.JPG IMG_2077.JPG

    Pulled the wheel, column and dash back out for paint. Heres a pic of the back of the spoke profile i had to slightly change to clear the cup on the column

    IMG_2083.JPG

    Ground out the cracks to fill with the eastwood kit....

    IMG_2079.JPG IMG_2080.JPG IMG_2081.JPG

    Pc-7 epoxy from eastwood

    IMG_2084.JPG

    Cracks filled with the epoxy

    IMG_2087.JPG IMG_2086.JPG

    If anyones interested im sellin the electric wiper motor

    IMG_2074.JPG
     
    voodookustoms likes this.
  24. greaser 35
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 491

    greaser 35
    Member
    from FRANCE

  25. Martino
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 236

    Martino
    Member

    Nice work on the column and Wheel !
    What color are you painting the steering wheel?
     
  26. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,109

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Got the engine back in....

    IMG_2105.JPG IMG_2107.JPG

    Flywheel and clutch on

    IMG_2109.JPG

    Trans adapter and bellhousing ready

    IMG_2111.JPG

    Cleaned up the trans and got it all back together

    IMG_2116.JPG IMG_2118.JPG
     
  27. Martino
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 236

    Martino
    Member

  28. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,109

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Got the trans back in. The tailshaft seems really tight to turn when the trans and clutch and all is installed. Is this normal ?? It goes into every gear easy still. Opinions ?


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  29. Looking really nice, keep it up
     
  30. I think I remember mine being fairly tight to turn also.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2013 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.