I just finished converting my 54 Chevy 210 over to 12v. I followed the instructions posted online by Bob Hayden. All went great but the car does not turn off when I turn the key. Had to put the coil wire to shut down. Any thoughts
You need an idiot light or a diode in the excite wire that runs from the ignition switch to the alt. There are threads on here with diagrams if you search for them.
Unhook your alternator and see if it will shut if with the ignition.....if it does you need a diode to prevent feedback.
Generally on GM it's the brown ( little) wire to alt. Just rob an old GM of it's idiot light and wire it in. Really simple.
Found it Remove the F wire from the generator and fold it back onto the wiring harness Remove the F wire from the voltage regulator and fold it back onto the wiring harness Connect the 2 wires left on the voltage regulator to each other using a nut and bolt and make sure they are insulated with electrical tape. You can splice them together, but then it will be harder to return it to original. Remove the voltage regulator from the firewall Remove the Generator and the lower generator bracket from the motor (my kit came with a new upper alternator bracket that was superfluous.) Plug the DA connector into the alternator. Disconnect the wire from the A post on the generator and connect it to the BAT post on the alternator along with the red DA plug wire. Run the white or yellow DA plug back through the firewall to the ignition switch and hook it up to the IGN post. Use black electrical tape to wrap the harness where the ugly white or yellow wire runs through the firewall and cover up the F wire from the generator Connect the battery and you are done. Start up the car and SMILE.
Smog guy, where EXACTLY does it get wired in. Somewhere along the wire running from alternator to ignition post? What about wiring a diode in? Is there an advantage/disadvantage either way. Johnny Gee. That is it.
I was thinking along the same thing but the 54 ignition switch is all forgotten in my memories. If your switch does indeed have 4 post's,1-Bat,1-Ign,1-Acc,1-Sol, then yes use the Acc Terminal. This way when the switch is in the off position the power from the Alt's white wire won't feed back to the coil.
As stated, you are getting feedback through the exciter wire. A diode is easy fix if you do not want to put an idiot light.
Run a switchable wire from the ign to the alt excite pole.IE a wire that has no power when ign is off.
The 54 ignition is 4 posts. Moving the wire to acc post did the trick. No diode or idiot light. Thanks fellas!