Just finished up the mount for my 54. I really dig the whole pedals throught the floor thing, so I decided to keep the master under the floor. I'd looked into aftermarket kits, but couldn't find one that would work with a standard trans, so I designed and built my own. I used the factory m.c. for dimensions. Once I had it worked out on paper, then the real work began. I chose the Corvette 1" bore disc/ disc master cylinder because it's wide and low. That part is important because I needed to fit it under the floor pan. Speaking of which, I needed to replace both front pans, so I decided to do the master and the floor pan at the same time. Much easier to get measurements and do test fits with no floor in the way. I used 1/4" plate for the body, and CRS for the pivot piece. Both of the pivot holes are bushed with brass sleeves, and I incorporated the original "T" block into my design. It took some fine tuning, but I've got it working properly. I did have to do some modification to the master cylinder to keep the bore of the m.c. the same as the original. This is important because it effects the pedal geometry, and I didn't want to have to modify the swing arms too. The only thing left to do is run some new lines and bleed the system. But that will have to wait until my Residual Pressure valves get here from Speedway. I'll keep you posted on the perforance once I get it out on the open road. I feel confident that it will work fine. Sorry that the pictures are so hard to see. My rattle bomb of semi gloss black was a lot closer to plain old gloss.
i used the same m/c, same kind of setup. remember, on these the front goes to the front, opposite of a "regular" car's. Don't ask how I found out. I had to use teflon tape to keep the wilwood rpv's from leaking, hope you got the cheap brass ones, I hear they are better
Nice job ..looks good too, you'll have to let us know how it works you may have to start producing them...hint hint
I like it! I've saved the pics in my project folder to use on my 49 fleetline. I'm like you and prefer the through the floor pedals on this car and no master on the firewall. Great job!
Yeah, I ordered the Speedway valves instead of the name brand. Saved about $5-6 each. Any recomendations on line sizes? I'd planned to run 1/4" to the front, and 3/16 to the rear. Does that sound alright?
line size is going to depend on the fittings you have for a splitter block for the front and the inlet size of your rear rubber line. I like to run 1/4 line to the rear rubber line then 3/16 to the wheel cylinders. front 1/4 to the T block and 3/16 to the front rubber lines. some where i got a stack of t fittings with 1 1/4" inverted flare and 2 3/16"
If I set it up like this, would it matter where the front T is? I plan to put it just off of the master cylinder, then run the Pass. front line along the crossmember and up to the wheel- kinda like the stock line runs. Sound like it will work OK?
Nice work! Great tech! As for lines, I've gotten in the habit of doing everything in 3/16 line. It makes things simple, and the master cylinder is going to move a given amount of fluid... regardless of line size. Theoretically, you could restrict the flow with lines too small, but apparently 3/16 isn't too small. Worked good on every car I've plumbed that way, and several others that I didn't personally set up, but have had opportunity to drive. Using all the same size keeps from having to have a bunch of different fittings and adapters.
I've had a couple people ask about the plans. When I get a chance, I'll scan them and post them for everyone.
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