Technical 54 331 Hemi Rebuild

The ports on the head and intake are close. I appears that the head ports are a little bigger than the intake.

So Gary is saying don't touch it just run it huh.

Ok. Ill go with that.

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To port match intakes properly, bolt heads to block using either your used head gaskets or new ones. Make up some intake gaskets with over-sized port openings using cardboard or bulk gasket material comparable in thickness to the gaskets you will use in your final assembly. Bolt intake onto heads with these temporary gaskets. Then reach into the cylinder bores and spray through the intake ports. This will reveal the true port mismatch.
I did a 426 years ago and it worked perfectly.

 

Just so you guys know. If you order the airtex 4280 stock replacement fuel pump for your 1954 331 hemi..... it won't work with out some modification



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It's coming nicely together Tank, looking good. You may just have yours running before I do!

 

Been a lot of problems with hemi F/Ps lately, I got the LA adaptor from HH.

 

It looks like the Airtex is for the later applications/tin timing cover.

 

Started removing the front clip and some stuff I won't be reusing. I did a post in the classifieds but thought I would mention it here to. Will be selling engine/trans and lots of other Misc stuff. Contact me if ur looking got some good usable parts



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Well, I'm just seeing this thread. Fantastic! This is the stuff I've been hoping more of you would do so it can add to the value of the build-up section!

What happened to the pictures on the first page? Am I the only one that can't see them?

 

I have all my pics hosted on webshots and they decided to quit.

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Anyway to re-host them and edit in the new links? Would be a big help!

Looking good!

 

Yea. I need to fix them soon. Thanks

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Front clip removed

 

After blasting my valley pan tonight I notice it has some rust hole and is very thin on one side.

Does anyone have a stock one they would sell?



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Where did you happen to score the 1954 manual?? I could use one of those...

 

Ebay.

 

Hey scoot, I have one of those manuals, same one, its old and fragile and put in a 3 ring binder, 20 bucks plus shipping if you want it and thanks for all the hemi info you help out with. Quinton

 

I only see this in place of whatever pic was there in the 1st post...




BTW,
If you (or the machine shop) tank the block, make sure to remove the inner pipe-plug located down in the distributor well. This plugs a hole that's was part of the mfg'ing process for an oil passage to the lifters.
It's somewhat hidden, and can only be accessed through the rear of the engine after taking out a pipe-plug there as well.

Then when assembling, make absolutely sure that the plug is back in there.
Use some thread sealant.
If not, there'll be NO oil pressure.

If it weren't for the HAMB and reading about Hemis, I would have never realized that there was supposed to be a plug in there........and the "short block" that I bought didn't have it in there!

 

Hey guys. Just dropped off my valve seals at the machine shop.

Only put them on the intake huh? How do u keep it from burning oil? Can I put some on the exhaust?

So whats the best setup for long term reliability? Not crazy bout blowing smoke everytime I fire it up.


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The ex valves hang upside down on a hemi vs wedge, oil doesn't run up hill.

 

You can drill a .050 hole in it to help lube the cam/dizzy gear.

 

it does get sucked down a guide though, just like a suction gun draws fluid from a container. the gas flowing through the port creates a vacuum in the guide and if it's anywhere on the loose side, some oil gets used.

 

The engine is designed to oil the exhaust valve stem through the guide clearance.

 

So what about the new valve guides im installing. They don't have any oil holes drilled in them.


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Reread what I typed. Thats why there are no seals on the exhaust. With proper stem to guide clearance they get lubricated.

 

...no holes, just the annular space around the stem...

This is why it is very important to have the proper stem clearance when assembled. Too little clearance can cause a valve to hang up if it gets too hot and, if severe enough, can even break a rocker arm.
The oil mist on the valve stem is the lubrication. It doesn't require much.

.

 

Anybody got a part number for a 318 fuel pump that works with the spacer???

 

I got mixed feelings tonight and some of you might not understand. Pulled the flathead. Happy cause im one step closer to the Hemi. Sad cause I have a lot of memories and miles in the flattie. She always got me where I was going.



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Any 318 LA F/P say a 74 Duster.

 

Got the car stripped down today. Shes just a shell of a body and rolling frame. Plan on doing more than just the engine swap.

My car was bagged awhile ago and has been awesome. Even though the car lays frame its still not low enough. Plan is to cut off about an inch off the bottom so that when it lays frame the rocker trim will sit about a 1/4" off the ground.



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Back to the fuel pump saga. Got my hands on a 74 duster 318 V-8 pump today. Its closer but not sure its gonna work either. The drawing is without a spacer.

Someone explain the idea of using a spacer and a 318 pump? I don't think it will work for me.



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