The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fiddle Picker, Dec 19, 2016.
Good Deal !
Took the Fiddle picker to Paradise Drag Strip "Christmas-n-Paradise toy drive this past Saturday. Met some great folks, Stude did good, had a blast !!
Got the clutch pedal in and operating, working on a linkage set-up.Had to make a new shaft to go through brake pedal pivot and to the inside of the frame. Will be a challenge. If I could use a "U" bolt it would be easy. Can't use bell crank setup. Trying to use original pedals, pivot point way to low and the actuator arm will pull to the rear and so does the clutch fork. About 4 inches height difference and it all must be behind the actuator (mid motor plate in the way). Any ideas, let me know.
That mid plate screws up everything I can think of without cutting your floor all up. If you want to try a "half breed" system with a hyd. slave and a mech. fork, I've got a Wilwood pull type slave you can borrow to try. If it doesn't work out, you can give it back to me. But we can look in catalog and see what they sell for and agree beforehand on a price if it does work, so you don't have to take it out and give it back if it works OK.
That's what I was going to do. Changed my mind and going mechanical. Probably be a "U" design linkage with some sort of guide to keep it standing up and in line.
Be sure you have enough leverage built in.
On my Lark I reversed the arm to the top side of the pedal so that it swung forward when pedal is depressed. I then fabbed a small bellcrank assy that bolts to the side of my lakewood scattershield, its the one that has the bracket welded to it for 55-57 chevy z bar . I then fabbed up some linkage using hiem ends. It works perfectly on my 59 lark with a 327 & muncie I can post pics if you want.
Let's see the pics. I haven't attached the arm to the rod yet so it can go up or down. Only problem with up is I would have to reshape my floorboard there because it would be only about 1 inch long the way it is now. Reshaping is not a problem if I have to. Give me dimensions on the arms too If you will. Thanks.
I am dealing with the same issues on my Morris. I have modified the pedals and am working on mounts. Thinking about using a cable because I have way less room than you do. Either that or a total hydraulic unit. I have been doing some research and as long as you use a -4 hose it will exhaust the fluid fast enough to release when power shifting.
Just remember to have enough mechanical leverage . I just redesigned a 38 Chevy for a guy who did it wrong, the clutch was like a light switch before and felt like you were pushing on the brake pedal.
Yeah thats correct , the arm is appx 1 1/4" long had to put a small dimple in floor to clear in fully upright position. I'll try and get some pics up this weekend but it might be monday cause when it comes to all things techie Im kind of a tard
Here are the pics I promised. My Z-bar support is attached to the bat wing. The bell crank on the side of the scatter shield I bushed with oilite bronze. Hope this helps.
Thanks Lumpy63 ! Cool Car and nice work on the linkage ! My problem is the mid motor plate. Looks like most of the activity is in front of the rear of the block. I would not be able to have much support from the motor plate, have to cut too much away.
Got the Ladder Bar Cross member made up and installed. Will finish it off with the upper loop when the running gear is removed. Probably remove the old drive shaft loop when it's done. It's 52" from the axle tube, so it will probably make the bars about 50" long. Was shooting for 62" bars. Too much going on with the frame at that point, so 50" it is. Pic not so good under the car.
Almost finished with ladder bars, ran out of shielding gas. Still have ladder supports and safety loops to go.
Looks like you will be ready by the first race. I was hoping to, but maybe the last race of the season.
Doesn't matter when you make it, just make it happen !! Happy New Year Mike !
Got your snow slicks on that Stude yet ?
Says a youper.
Ha ! it completely missed us this time and I'm glad. I don't care for snow at all !! It always seems to cost me. Did y'all get any ? It was a strange pattern.
Hey Jim, that leather jacket I got from you sure is helping keep me warm !! I love it !!
One thing for sure, you need a good jacket the last few days! True enough, no snow in Griffin, but it's been cold as a well digger's ass for the whole week! Have had to run the propane fueled heater in my shop turned down low all week to keep pipes and things from freezing, then fire off the diesel fueled one to be able to stay over there for even a little while. Gotta go back over there today and take inventory on my stock of Amsoil synthetic lubricants for tax purposes.
You can bet I'll light off that 70K BTU diesel one and hug it for a bit till the temp at last gets up in the 50s!
Johnny I know most of your work is done out on the shop front apron, so I doubt much is getting done?
My sister lives south of you guys in Thomaston. I want to come down and visit her but I guess I'll wait. It's about 4 degrees up here and I know it's warmer there but I want it to be short sleeves and shorts weather if I'm going south!
J.A. I used to race on the dirt tracks around here with a Larry Miller back in the late 60s and early 70s.
he was in the paint and body business in Thomaston. Any relation?
dirty old man, no we are from the north. My sister's first husband was stationed at Fort Benning and they stayed in Georgia when he got back from Viet Nam.
Lots and lots of Millers around and if you go back far enough we probably are all related.
We stayed in Fort Benning before going to Germany.
Hope I'am not related.
You're right Dave, not much, but we are kinda still on schedule, finished the trans crossmember (made it removable), ladder bar crossmember and got most of the ladder bars done in the cold !
My son got over 2 inches of snow just east of Waycross. Sent me a picture of their snowman. He is 20 miles north of the Florida line.
My daughter and Grandson sent me pics of a snow fort in Mt Pleasant S/C, just outside of Charleston. Still on the ground, 3 to 4''
Been working on clutch linkage today. Going with "U"(1 Inch tubular driveshaft loop) design with guide (bronze) bushings. Had to put it on a diet ! I used 1.5 inch flat bar to keep from having to mill some long slots (tracks) in the plate. Back plate will attach to frame and floorboard . I will cut away excess from back plate after mounting is figured out. Don't have my scatter shield and clutch fork in yet to finish mounting.
Finished ladder bars and floaters. Take apart, paint and re assemble, adjust. (not using the scissor jack for support, just a safety measure)
Separate names with a comma.