Technical 53 Chevy SBC 350 Ticking Noise - Bad Lifters?

Thank you, I'm going to buy at least one of those for the #1 intake. I really just need a bandaid solution as my house is for sale and I have a couple offers and I don't want to have a car that is completely stuck. If I can drive it very low miles until I find a new home/garage for it that would go a long ways. I may just leave the ticking noise alone for now and try mystery marvel for now.

Long term I probably need to pull heads, intake, and maybe the entire motor out if I plan to keep the car. I'm still debating given I have not figured out where to keep the car if I sell my house.

 

I wonder if I should just buy this set? They are used but look ok in the photos? They come with new rocker nuts and pivot balls and I already know mine are getting stuck on the studs a lot. Just a single new rocker arm alone is about half the price of this entire set.

Any thoughts?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/18169924706...em=&sspagename=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

 

Here's a thought: Did you get the brakes working? You were worried about getting it going so you could get it out of the house and now you are trying to fix ticking rockers? Did you ever get the big hole in the back floor fixed? How many unfinished issues do you have going on this car at once? Maybe an overall update would help us want to help you.

 

Thanks I got the new brake parts all in yesterday and I'm confident I can have the brakes working even if I keep the 9inch setup in the front for now and just replace the master cylinder and reroute lines and add a heat shield a 2psi residual for front and 2psi residual for rear. I have the 11 inch disc kit in my garage but not sure I'll get to it during my house selling process

Here's what else I did the last few months:
1. Grommets on all wiring passing through firewall
2. New exhaust tucked above trans crossmember
3. Fixed air ride system leaks
4. Fixed completely dead #1 exhaust valve that was stuck and crusted out.
5. Non vented gas cap in trunk
6. Trunk seals added
7. Custom fresh air tubes which keep a good breeze inside and all fumes out.
8. Redid wiring for compressors since fuses were blowing.
9. Rewired everything running off the ignition switch properly
10. Rerouted fuel lines much farther from exhaust manifold and fixed all hoses on rear into tank and put new fuel filter.
11. New alternator
12. New plugs and wire
13 new exhaust manifold gaskets on both sides
14 new aluminum finned valve covers since the old ones were warped probably from someone overtightening

I was literally about to fix the panel in rear behind the seat but the motor was making a chirping noise so I wanted to look into that first. I did buy a Lincoln welder to do the back and seal the firewall. At least for now no fumes at all were getting in with the fresh air tubes.

Right now I just want to be able to drive the car very short duration to wherever I end up if I sell my house. I may have to keep it somewhere with a car cover so I want to at least have it drivable short distances while I figure my life out.

 

You have been busy. Thanks for the updates. Many people have given input on your threads and they will be happy to see the progress you have made. Hope it starts going your way. Keep at it.

 

Having been thru selling a few houses and moving my shop plus trailer plus motor cycles plus projects i can relate to you situation, my advice is leave the engine alone do what else needs to and can be finished, just get it moveable the when you get settled pull the motor, go thru it, if its in good shape you will only need gaskets and seals plus what ever you need to fix the current cam problems, I have found prolonged tear downs lead to a loss of interest

 

I had lifter noise on only 1 lifter too...74 sbc...I did all the adjusting everyone recommended, which btw depending on who I asked had a different method and how much tightening is acceptable, didnt fix it. Replaced all lifters, checked cam, didnt fix it. Adjusted cold, adjustsed hot, adjusted running, didnt fix it. Found which lifter it was making noise with a stethescope and just tightend it until the noise was gone (which was probably 1/4 to 1/2 more than the others) and put it back together. No issues yet but I was friggin done with adjusting lifters.

BTW, the engine builder I used for all my machining told me you can tighten then up to one full turn after lash is gone to control noise.

 

I tell you exactly how much.
Someplace between zero lash and loss of compression at rpm.

 

LOL I think the chiltons says 1 1/2 turn past no lash. Preload (there is no lash adjustment on hydraulics) depends a lot on components used and the end use of the vehicle. Most of the time I start @ 1/4 turn past no lash and that seems to work well. The more load you put on them the less revs you can expect.

I have run them as loose a 1/8 turn when I was experimenting with a 283 (292) that we street raced ( yes don't do this at home kids). A little advice with this preload do not miss a shift, you run the risk of spitting the pushrods out everywhere, and loosing 20 bucks because if you do not pass the finish line before the other guy you have to pay up.

I can actually live with a little valve noise myself, but I don't drive a custom most of the time.

 

Haha, that about sums it up!

 

Thanks, the car has been undrivable for two solid months now and I've tried to not get discouraged. It's taken me so long to take the head out and have it fixed and put everything together due to being in the middle of a house sale, long hours at job, etc etc. I'm going to adjust the best I can and get one of those rocker arms that may keep aligned on the valve stem.

I think pulling that motor fully out is the right thing to do but I'll have to wait until I have things figured out first with my potential move..

 

I took a few more photos and did a little more observations.
On the driver side (the one not giving any ticking noise) the studs are not the same height when I put a level over #1 and #3. I'm guessing the "engine builder" used a shorter stud or pressed it in too much because its the only one that short.

I put a late model GM rocker to keep it centered over the stem on #1 intake and I think it will buy me some time.

The passenger side is a real pain. I can't take some of the rocker arms off all the way because the pivot balls are so tight onto the studs. The best I can do is wiggle them enough that I feel the lash in the pushrods then tighten them with 1/2 turn past zero lash.

I sprained my hand trying to get them off and now I'm mad. Some of them are too tight to remove by hand and others are moderately tight where I can get them all the way out but cleaning with emery cloth doesn't do much.

In this case buying new pivot balls will likely do nothing? I'm guessing it's the studs that are making the tight fit? I'm not sure what to do.

Part of me says just adjust the best I can and leave it alone until I decide if I'm going to pull both heads and dig deeper and have a real engine builder fix the issues. Any advice?

 

Do whatever is necessary to get the pivot balls and rockers off and then check the studs for galling or burrs. The pivot balls have to float if you are going to adjust the valves.

If the studs are galled the inside of the pivot balls will also be galled. You can clean up the studs with a piece of emery cloth or replace them, the balls could possibly be cleaned up or you could just buy a set, replace them all not just some of them when you do.

 

Thanks!

I have pressed in studs and I really don't want to take the cylinder heads out right now. I can see marks where the pivot balls pressed into the studs. I imagine the "engine builder" tightened them up and adjusted without any issues since he/she didn't have to loosen the valves.

The only thing I can do is wiggle the rocker arms hard to get them to free up a little. Tightening down with the nut isn't an issue. This makes it hard to adjust while running and I'm wondering if the pressure of the push rods is enough to make the rocker arm loosen up properly to get the clacking noise. I'm guessing not.

Any advice what to do? Should I find some type of pulley remover to get the rocker arms off and not sprain my hand again? The ones that I sanded with emery cloth didn't go on much easier.

In this instance what likely happened? Mismatched studs/pivot balls?

 

A slide hammer with a hook will get the rocker arms off. You don't have to pull the heads to change the studs at all, They make a simple puller for the studs and pressing them in is just a matter of about a 12 oz hammer and a spare nut.

You can even pin the studs with the heads still on the car, I have done it more then once.

 

Thanks, I will look on ebay for the stud remover. Do you use the spare nut to beat on with the hammer?

 

Yep.
The stud pullers are usually less than 20 bucks and you will use it more then once. I have pulled the studs with a slide hammer too, but I have been known to do things absolutely wrong so don't try and get lucky with all of my advice.

Let me find you a photo of a stud puller some place so you know what to look for. A quick search got me this one. I have seen them with a fulcrum real cheap.

I am in the garage in a bit if I have more then one I'll hook you up.

 

Oh great thanks for the advice!

 

Ok so I did a little more work this evening. I used a pulley extractor carefully to remove the rocker arms on a couple that had tight pivot balls stuck on the studs. It didn't take much force to where the rocker arms would get burred or distorted but just a little more than I can do with my bare hand.

To remind you the driver side doesnt have ticking noise but the passenger side does. Some of the rocker arm pivot balls are hard to take off because they are galled to the stud a little or maybe just a tight fit from when it was built.

I also put a late GM rocker arm on the #1 intake.



I found a late GM rocker arm with rails on both sides already on the #4 exhaust and the #4 exhaust push rod looks different in type than all the rest. All the rest of the rocker arms are the smooth type.



More observations. The #4 intake stud seems a little higher and so does the #2 intake but its tough to say if that was just from a shoddy build. I know on the driver side the studs are a little different in height and that side doesn't have ticking noise. I'm pretty sure this "engine builder" just set them up crappy.

I noticed some of the valve stems have slightly uneven wear and the #2 exhaust has a corner rougher looking.




Next the #4 exhaust stud (shown below) has a funny slot in it. I wonder what that is from.. recycled parts. or someone hacked it up??



Lastly the #4 intake pushrod is ever so slightly bent.(you cant really tell from the photo below but it is, I estimate .007 to .010 inches in warp from end to end). the rest are good.

 

I'm not sure what to do. If I don't drive this car soon I'm going to explode.

My thoughts are buy two new pushrods for #4 exhaust and #4 intake.

I might be able to sand the studs and pivot balls a little bit but not sure I should bother. I'm thinking I can carefully tighten the rocker arms and set the preload to 1/4 turn past zero lash by getting each cylinder to its TDC. Then leave it and just drive the damn thing.

I remember it seemed to run better at 1/4 turn rather than 1/2 turn where it idled a little rougher. I also remember when tightening the #4 intake or exhaust (can't remember) past 1/4 turn, the ticking noise would go away for a few seconds, then come back.

I'm not sure if I can adjust the valves while running very easily if the rocker arm pivot balls go on a little tight on some studs. If I set them correctly cold maybe I am good to go and maybe I will get ultra lucky and the ticking goes away with replacing the #4 intake and exhaust push rods.

Other than that I probably should get new heads that are setup properly but I've been working on this car for the last couple of months and I'm about to explode with anger for having bought this thing to begin with and not inspecting it better.

I just have a bad feeling about taking studs out and putting new ones with the heads on the car and I don't want to take the heads out right now.

Any advice given my thoughts?

 

Here are some more photos of the #4 exhaust stud.. WTF!!!

 

Almost looks like the bottom of the rockers have been rubbing the stud bosses, like the pushrods are too short. The guide hole in the head of that bad stud looks badly worn on one side, too.

Gary

 

I'll catch hell for this, but here it goes. I read through a lot of your posts in this thread along with other guys who are just chiming in trying to help. I think you're getting too worked up over this. I'll give you advice given to me by a wise HAMB sage...."this thing ain't the space shuttle." If your ticking sounds more like a sewing machine than a cow bell, good for you! Put the thing back together and drive it!!! I went gonzo trying to get rid of a tick Ina 283 several years ago. I did most everything you have done and drive myself insane. I finally said "eff this thing". If it blew up I'd just said I'd buy another cheap junk yard SBC and toss it in there. You know what? As far as I know, that motor is running fine, 4 years later, with another owner who drives it daily! Yeah, your engine looks like it's seen many hands and had a patchwork of repairs done, but none looked terrible to my eyes. I say go drink a brew, put it back together, and putt around til sanity returns!

 

Hey, bud..You got a mess there if you don't mind me saying so.
That one with the slotted stud looks like the push rod hole is half round.
You definitely need a rail rocker there.Take a file and make sure there are no burrs around that slot.
Take a new rocker and ball and SLIP it down into place .
Put the intake rocker on and turn the engine until the intake starts to go down.
Set the exh. like I told you.Spin the push rod till you feel drag. Wiggle the rocker so you make sure you are seated, then tighten it down at least a half. You can go another quarter to make a few guys happy here. lol.
Don't set them running ..That's back in '59. Just makes a mess.

 

Thanks, I'm going to do that I've had enough of this car, I have the feeling of regret every day I walk in my garage. I'm going to live with the ticking and just get another SBC if the thing blows, I'm getting really worked up over something silly. I just want to cruise a little, not race nor show this thing off. Thanks!

 

Thanks. I will do that. The half round hole is something I've seen on some other ones as well. That one had a late GM rail rocker so the "engine builder" must have put that on because he saw that hole shape and thought it might be an issue. The thing is this guy who built this car must have put used parts all over the place from what I can tell. I'm going to just put it back together the best I can and drive it.

 

Thanks. There is also no telling where these heads have been. Supposedly they are from some 60s or 70s corvette that the previous owner had put on the 72' Chevelle block that was rebuilt. I suspect the messed up holes may have been from a previous car and may have just gotten worse on this build.

I put a late GM rocker arm on the #1 intake because it had a worn out hole and the rocker arm was pivoting. The one you pointed to has a late GM rocker arm already put on by the "engine builder".

 

You know, I've been watching this for a while, never commented because I couldn't think of anything to say (that hasn't already been said) without seeing it in person. Apparently, I never thought to look and see where you were located either, because low and behold, your in San Diego, and I'm in Alpine. If you wanna get together sometime and look this thing over, let me know and I'll pm you my number. I've got several sets of SBC heads lying around as well, from '69 Camaro heads that need to be rebuilt, to a brand new pair of World Products S/R Torquer heads that got rusty (surface only) sitting in the boxes on a shelf while I was stationed over in hawaii for 3 years. In between those two choices, I believe I still have a set of 624 casting 350 heads that don't have more that 6000 miles on them since they were rebuilt (unless I sold them, but I don't think so.....damn CRS!). Anyway, I'll be at Goodguys all this weekend, so I'm busy till Monday, but after that we can figure something out (if your interested).

Kurt (Blownfuel)

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That #4 stud is getting eaten & Each bite is going to make a noise. Eventually it will break and it looks like it will be sooner than later on the breaking. When it brakes you'll have no way to pull it but it will need drilled out.

The source of your aggravation is not the engine, an engine is just a mechanical object who's end exit plan and planned result is to wear out. The source of aggravation is you limiting yourself to band-aid fixes and you know it's not right. All of a sudden you are cut off at your knees by your own self imposed restrictions.
Without a time machine your not going to change what you bought or what the other guy did - PERIOD. So get over that. You were sold a polished turd, learn and get over it. Something's are beyond your current level of understanding, so learn and get over it.
Get over it means to work at climbing over this mountain out of an molehill obstacle or wall Get over it, climb the damn fence and let yourself out.

 

Thanks Kurt. I will send you a PM for sure!