Technical 53 Chevy Roof Question

I've got a 53 Chevy hardtop that needs roof replacement. A lot of rust in both A-pillars, above the windshield and above the rear window. I'm looking for tips on the correct places to cut to remove the original roof and then be able to weld in the replacement with hope for some strength. Can it get separated at some factory joints for easy replacement?

Not planning on chopping, but maybe folks who've chopped a 53-54 Chevy hardtop would have some thoughts.

 

How are the a pillars at the cowl?

 

I'd have to take a close look, but they might be good where they attach at the cowl. Get pretty bad about half-way up.

 

Do you have the replacement roof yet?
That should be your guide hopefully you can remove the replacement yourself. If so cut it where it is easy to weld in. If you follow factory replacement it could be a lot more work. I assume your replacement is used.

 

That's pretty much your answer then. I'd try to keep graphs at a pillar and sail plane only. Cut donor car down deep and trim to your needs.

 

Could you replace/graft in donor A pillars then patch the rotted areas above the windshield and rear window? I patched the entire front of the roof and most of the sides along with forming a new drip rail on my ‘54 Ford. A little bit of work but not too bad.

 

Please post some pickqateaurs. Everything is easier if we know your true issues.

 

I'll try to get some photos. Have the roof and it's still on the donor vehicle so can cut as needed.

 

Here are some photos of the A pillar and inner roof rust.

 

You can make square cuts and weld them right back, never have an issue if you can weld, or you can "step" the cuts, to give you more weld surface.

 

Like this

 

I haven’t done one of those but I have done others.
I try to find the factory seams and see if that can be separated.
If I cut a post I will stagger or step the cut.

 

Interested how it got that way. Car body upside down or what?

 

It's best to avoid factory seams because they are filled with lead making them hard to weld. Easier to cut in the middle of the post, or at any convenient point and weld them together.

 

In my experience. I’ve removed the lead and joined in factory seams when possible.
Never had a welding issue.
I’ve also eliminated lead joints in the process a time or two.
The factory sloppy seams do make easy join locations.
A lot of older factory repair procedures would put a splice short of a lead joint. For older cars I melt most if not all the lead out during repairs. Rust like to form there and I’ve found cracks due to poor factory welding. But it’s going to depend on how much post and sail panel you get with the roof section.
Honestly, if you cut and weld it properly there are few wrong answers.

 

Thanks all for the comments. Someone asked how the roof could get that rusty...not sure, never seen one that bad. Rest of the body has issues but is repairable. Only thing I can think of is many generations of mice? The inner reinforcement across the front above the windshield forms more of a box on the 53-54 hardtop models when compared to a sedan, maybe that design just allows more moisture to stay in if it gets past the windshield gasket.

 

Best bet would be to take the whole vehicle over to Anthony's house, drop it off in the driveway, real early in the morning, with a note reading that you will be back in two weeks. Really, find the factory joints remove the lead and drill out the spot welds and remove the whole roof. Find a donor, something that is close or not even in the ballpark, but not as rusty, and with a few hammers, a few saw cuts, a lot of welding you will end up with a custom.