Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical 53 Chevy Front Coil Spring Removal Question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by The_Monster, May 27, 2014.

  1. The_Monster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2003
    Posts: 1,805

    The_Monster
    Member

    I have a 53 belair. I've tried removing the front coil spring but the A arm wont swing down away from the frame. I have the sway bar removed and all 4 nuts off of the lower A arm pivot point on the frame. I have the hydraulic jack under the A arm and Im beating on the A arm with a deadblow hammer and it wont free itself from the frame?! Has anyone had the lower A arm get hung up like this?? What the hell am I doing wrong??

    The only thing I can guess is its binding up on the four bolts because of the pivot angle and the spring pressure. Should I lower the car down so the spring compresses? Maybe that would take off the binding of the bolts. Do you typically knock the bolts out? I got two to come out, but the other two (on the wheel side) wont budge.
    Any suggestions would be great. Thanks!
     
  2. High5
    Joined: Jul 2, 2012
    Posts: 185

    High5
    Member

    I think your only alternative is to use a spring compressor to take the tension off the A-arm. I would not lower the car down. Yes, it probably will take the bind off the bolts. But if the A-arm does let go, It could lead to catastrophic results or injury. Do yourself a huge favor and go rent a spring compressor if you don't already have one.

    Best of luck.
     
  3. The couple times I have removed the springs on these I put the jack under the A-arm and them removed the lower bolt from the upright that holds the spindle.
     
  4. txturbo
    Joined: Oct 23, 2009
    Posts: 1,771

    txturbo
    Member

    Easiest way is to go buy a piece of 1/2" all thread rod. Stick it down through the shock absorber hole. Then slide a piece of flat bar of some type with a hole in the center through the spring coils near the bottom of the spring. A used lawn mower blade works great for this. Put a nut and washer on both ends and start tightening it to compress the spring enough to take the pressure off. I keep several pieces of all thread and several lawn mower blades around just for this purpose. I also save old shock absorber washers to use under the nuts on both ends.
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2014

  5. The_Monster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2003
    Posts: 1,805

    The_Monster
    Member

    Thanks for the input guys. I tried removing the lower spindle nut but i didnt have the right sized wrench. I think I'll try compressing the spring next. I think some local shops rent them for free with refundable deposit.
     
  6. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,369

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    X2!!! I almost tore my left index finger off when a spring let go using this method. I consider myself lucky to be able to walk away. It's no joke how much energy is stored in those damn things.


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  7. I would advise against the lawn mower blade as they may be too hard and fracture at the worst moment. You are far better off with mild steel bar. Even that is chancy as it can slide on the coil surface.

    But everyone should have a inside-the-spring spring compressor around. One of those things that you buy once.

    Bob
     
  8. The_Monster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2003
    Posts: 1,805

    The_Monster
    Member

    So I rented a spring compressor and I had some problems. First off, The tool was too wide to fit through the shock hole, so a bit of grinding was in order. Next, the upper spring "cup" is so deep that only a third of the spring is exposed. Once I pounded the two hooks through the spring gaps I could only spin it up the spring so far, to a point that I couldn't turn it up into the cup any farther. Last, the slide in dished fork to be placed near the bottom of the spring was too thick. I pounded on it to try to wedge it in, but no go. My springs may be already collapsed to a point?

    A few here said not to lower the car back down with the A arm removed from the frame pivot. I don't see a problem with this while being safe and keeping your body parts out from under the car. Once the car is under it's own weight, its only about 6-8" off the ground. The A arm is still connected at the spindle. If the A arm decides to free itself and let loose, the A arm will come in contact with the ground, pivoting from the spindle, being pushed down by the spring. When that happens, the A arm would be at a 45 degree angle or less. I would be doubtful if the spring could worm its way out of the deep upper cup and past the angled A arm.

    So, with no one else in the garage and my body protected, I lowered it down. Nothing. I stood on the front bumper, nothing. I bounced up and down to the point it was hitting the bump stops (no shocks) and still nothing. It's still bound up on two bolts.

    Next step is trying to remove the passenger side. If that one comes off easy, then I may have a driver side that was in an accident at one point. However, if it gives me a fight like the driver side has, then I'll bolt everything back up as it was originally and sawsall through the spring. It wont shoot anywhere because nothing will be unbolted. Of course Ill be wearing thick welding gloves, long sleeves and full visor. That will take the bind off the bolts, or at least give me the freedom to tweek the A arm around without the fear of loosing an arm or dying when it finally decides to let loose.

    Is it typically this difficult? I've read so many threads, hoping to catch a hint or tip on what I'm dealing with. It sounds like you just unbolt it, lower the A arm slowly with hydraulic jack and the spring comes out. Bingo!
     
  9. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,931

    squirrel
    Member

  10. Scott F.
    Joined: Aug 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,012

    Scott F.
    Member

    I guess maybe I have always done it the wrong way, but here's my method.

    I get the front end off the ground and rock solid on jack stands. Then I take a heavy piece of chain around the frame and snake through the coils of the spring and then bolt that chain together so it's tight. Remove the sway bar. Then I put a jack under the spindle end of the lower control arm. Before making contact with the jack, I break loose the nut holding the pivot bolt through the A arm and upright. Next, I make contact on the bottom of the lower control arm with the jack and put just a little pressure on it with the jack until I can back the large pivot bolt out basically by hand. I should have mentioned that the jack is run from the front of the car in under the lower arm, that way when you perform the next step, you are not in line with the pivoting action/ spring path. Next you get to the jack and start to slowly lower it down. You may need a piece of 4x4 wood to place under the control arm as it comes down if you don't have enough height to completely relieve spring tension before the jack gets all the way down. If so, you set the control arm on the wood and then move the jack inboard under the spring pocket, jack up just a smidge so you can pull the board out then continue carefully lowering. You can usually tell when the spring is relieved of it's compression and grabbing it to see if it is 'loose' in the pocket will tell you. Then you pry down the lower arm all the way and I usually still need a bar or some other sort of leverage to get the spring to pop out of the pocket.
    There, I probably missed a detail or something but that's how i do it. Once the nut and pivot bolt are out, stay out of the potential line of travel of the spring if it were to somehow get loose. Now if you want to remove the lower arm, you can do it without all the spring compression drama.

    Scott
     
  11. rustedgold
    Joined: Nov 8, 2012
    Posts: 8

    rustedgold
    Member
    from omaha, ne

    I cut the springs on my 51 bel air last month, easiest way I could find was to put pressure on the pivot point on the frame with a jack and knock or cut those bolts out. I had to replace a couple of them due to damaged threads but really wasn't too bad, hardest part for me was getting the old shocks and sway bar end links out, good luck.


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  12. The_Monster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2003
    Posts: 1,805

    The_Monster
    Member

    Yea, this weekend, I'm gonna do everything I can to get those old springs out of there, short of blowing up the car! They're coming out!!!
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.