Technical 53 Chevy - Beeping Noise when Stopping

Thanks! I did u-joints on my 93 Chevy Astro van before I got rid of it so I still remember the process but I will have to use c-clamps as I don't have a vice.

 

Get under the car, pull the inspection plate and take a mechanics mirror and a light and look at the flex plate as you spin the crank over a little at a time.

 

C- clamps ain't gonna cut it. Can you get a hand grease gun in there and give each one a shot of grease?

 

I did them with a normal bench vice for my 1950 cadillac.

 

Thanks, I have a hand grease gun. Next time I can get underneath I'll check to see if there are grease fittings on the u joints.

 

I had some time to get back on this and put the car back on jackstands. My immediate plan of action is to replace the transmission vacuum line, take the drive shaft out, grease the u-joints and then drive and see what happens. Then put it back on jackstands and start looking at taking drums off, etc.

Here's what I found thus far:

U-joints feel ok. I don't feel any play. I shot these two videos:

I see a little play in the yoke but not in the u-joints:



I don't feel play in the rear u-joints.



Here are some photos:





The differential is leaking and gear oil makes it to the exhaust. Eventually I need to have the differential serviced. For now I've been just making sure there is some fluid in there. The leak seems to be at the front where the drive shaft goes in.

Now regarding vacuum lines:

A good portion of the transmission line is steel line. The ends are rubber pieces and they look quite old but I don't see any tears/holes.




Here's a view of the trans line going into the intake manifold. Notice the steel to rubber end.



The dizzy line and the PCV line don't look too bad and are not brittle.






What should I do? Grease the U-joints and replace the ends of the transmission line with new rubber pieces and then drive it and see if the beep/squeal/whine noise went away? Do I need to take the driveshaft out at this point?

I don't feel like taking the rear wheels off, such a pain, especially getting the skirts back on after. I rather drive and put it back on jackstands later and try greasing u-joints and vac line first.

 

Ok thanks. So once I get the driveshaft out is there anything in particular I should do? I'm not sure how to check for any early signs of failure once off the car.

 

Are there zirks for the U joints? Go ahead and grease them and see what happens.

U joints are inexpensive and simple to install if you have a vice or press. I would go ahead and replace them for peace of mind. Might be like $50 or less to do both I forget what mine cost.

I dont like that rear dif leak. Certainly a possible source of the sound. Im only familiar with more recent ford differentials but I assume it has a higher plug that you can pump in or out fluid. When you open it the fluid should be right at that level.

 

Thanks. I didn't feel any in and out play with the drive shaft in place. I will take it out and do what you suggested.

 

Thanks for your help.
Yep there are grease fittings on the u-joints. Hard to see in the photos. I don't have a vice or press and room is really limited in the tiny 1 car garage. I'd have to take the drive shaft out, buy u-joints and find a shop willing to install them or maybe ask the previous owner if I can bring it to his place (he has a vice).

I don't like that leak either but I'd have to take the axles out to service the rear end and thats something im not comfortable with. I'd need to have someone service it. There is a plug at the top that I have used to fill the fluid to the level of the plug. Then it leaks and reaches a lower level closer to where the drive shaft enters. I've been monitoring the fluid and sticking my finger to make sure there is still fluid. It constantly has a slow leak so I know it isn't dry.

 

Anyone have suggestions on what to do for the vac line for the transmission? Replace the ends and leave the middle steel line as is?

 

You don't need a vice press to remove the joints and you can do it in your living room, if you want. All you need is a screwdriver and pliers to remove clips on the joints. Then 2 sockets. One slightly larger than the joint cap but not larger that metal area that surrounds the cap. And one smaller socket that is smaller than the surrounding metal area. I would suggest 1/2 drive sockets. Impact types if you have them.
If you have a heavy piece of metal, put that on the floor. The cup off the floor jack would work, if you remove it and flip it upside down. If you don't have a piece of heavy metal, then use a thick piece of wood. Now, you get the big socket and place that on the piece of metal or wood, with the drive end down and the large opening up.
Line up the surrounding metal of the joint cap onto the socket, then get the smaller socket and place on top of the joint cap (the large socket on the bottom, the small socket on top) hold it with your hand and get a heavy ball peen hammer and hit the small socket until the bottom cap falls into the larger socket. You will notice the upper cap go down.
Easy Peasy. Spray some penetrating oil (not KY) around the caps, before you start and wear safety glasses.

 

What's your driveshaft rubbing on? It's very shiny on the differential end.

 

Not sure I'll have to get under and recheck.

 

I just took out the rubber segment that connects to the intake manifold and it had a tear in it. I don't think I did that getting it off. I wasn't yanking on it. I can see through to the inside when I bend it, the trans shifted fine though.

 

Maybe you found the source. Time to replace and find out.

 

Thanks the previous owner doesn't know when they were replaced and what they are from. Would anyone know what years would work on a th350 trans and 55 Chevy rear end? I could also just grease the fittings and see what happens. I still haven't taken the drive shaft out yet.

 

Replace the cracked rubber hose, grease the u joints and see what is rubbing on the driveshaft and fix it. Then go for a test ride!

 

I wish I could tell you what to do about the noise, and all the suggestions you have received are good ones. When I saw the picture of you engine I noticed you only have one return spring on your throttle linkage. While you are fixing things now would be a good time to add a second return spring for safety sake
KK

 

YOu can grease the joints first, I was just giving you a little info, in case you do have to replace the joints.

 

I'm going to do exactly that and report back thanks!

 

I really appreciate you catching that. Here is a photo of the spring that was on the car when I got it. It was annoying because it would hit and catch on the idle adjustment screw and make noise and the spring was releasing.
I replaced it with the thinner diameter one.




When I look online, lots of people with Edelbrock carbs seem to be running only one spring but not sure why. I can put a second one. Thanks.

 

Buy a regular throttle spring, they are double and one is inside the other. Gary

 

Out of curiosity are there any guidelines for when hose clamps should be used on vacuum line? Is it for larger diameter or higher vac systems?

I imagine it would be a good idea for the trans modulator line and using a clamp on the intake manifold port connection. I didn't see any clamp on the connection to the transmission. There was a clamp on the rubber to steel line connection on one end but not the other.

Thanks.

 

That's the first thing I noticed when I saw that picture too... it's rubbing on something to be thatshiny

 

I don't know where your problem is , but if you pull the drive shaft and then grease it you will have 2 ujoint cups in your floor or where ever your working. Grease it in the car.

 

Get that shit done and report back already!