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Technical 52 Chevy open driveline E-brake solutions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by RMONTY, Dec 3, 2016.

  1. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 1,408

    RMONTY
    Member

    Just got done installing a Chassis Engineering kit on a 52 Chevy Styleline frame. I used an S10 rear end, off of a 4WD pickup that I picked up @ Pick&Pull for cheap. I was wondering what solutions you guys have come up with to take care of the emergency brake? I am going with a T5 trans and a Walton Fabrications crossmember so the old hardware isn't going to work obviously. I was hoping someone might have some pics/ideas to post of how they handled the e-brake cables with an S10 rear end in this configuration. IMG_6843.jpg
     
  2. RMONTY, look through this thread, good info.
    http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/212210/
     
  3. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 1,408

    RMONTY
    Member

    Thanks Bob...great reference material!
     
  4. Yes, it's a good one from a guy who wanted his work to "shine".
     
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  5. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 17,378

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    will you be putting a V8 in your car? it is the V8's that screw up the parking brake, the motor interferes with the brake mechanism at the firewall. the post above the guy still has the six.
     
  6. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 1,408

    RMONTY
    Member


    No it's getting a vintage hopped up 235 in it. Cam, Offy intake, dual carbs, etc....I saw an e-brake set up a while back and can't find the thread, or really remember where I saw it. It seems like it was a block mounted to the inside of the drivers side frame rail that the e-brake cables were clamped in, and then a stainless rod coming back from the OEM bracket up front to pull the cables....I should have bookmarked it....was a pretty sweet set up.
     
  7. On Pat's '54 Bel Aire, since the V-8 precluded using the stock pull handle, we took a '40 Ford park brake lever, modified the brackets, and mounted it by the L/H kick panel. Ran the cable down and mounted slightly off center next to transmission tail-shaft, then used a '40 equalizer and clevis along with a "Help" cable repair kit to connect it to the S-10 brake cables. Picture of the handle mounted; but nothing of the bottom side; but that is pretty easy to figure.
    park brake.jpg
     
  8. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 5,786

    56sedandelivery
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I think the issues he's asking about have more to do with the lever/fulcrum of the parking brake that is part of the stock crossmember, not the part under the hood and on the drivers side frame rail. If you use Chassis Engineering's "notch kit" for a trans mount, you won't have to give up the parking brake mechanism. You remove the center top portion of the crossmember and weld in the new, lower piece for the transmission mount to bolt to. But, you also don't have a dropout crossmember to pull the transmission; you have to pull the engine AND transmission together to replace a clutch, etc. I remember all the postings RhinoRay did over on C.T. When we did the parking brake on our 51 Bus Coupe, we went with a floor mount mounted to the trans hump, as the car had a V-8. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
  9. turdmagnet
    Joined: May 19, 2008
    Posts: 363

    turdmagnet
    Member

  10. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 16,252

    gimpyshotrods
    Member

    I am working on a 1940 Chevy pickup right now. It has a T5. I am working up a bracket that puts a Lokar transmission mount parking brake next to the shifter, much as it was with the stock setup (albeit several inches back).

    It will come out of the "moved" stock hole:
    [​IMG]
    Just a thought.
     
  11. Way before my '51's, I had a '50.
    I used the Chassis Engineering TH 350 trans "notch kit" and their V8 engine mount brackets.
    The trans crossmember was made removable because all the crossmember rivets were drilled out, then replaced with nuts / bolts, which made the crossmember an unbolt unit.
    FYI, those Chassis Engineering parts were dead on, the V8 engine mounts brackets came with frame horn measurements in their instructions.
    So easy and so precise.
     
  12. EZ Cool
    Joined: Nov 17, 2011
    Posts: 260

    EZ Cool
    Alliance Vendor

    I used a 55-56 Chevy emergency brake handle and mounted it on the left side of the steering column. I had a cable from an unknown source that I mated up to the e-brake handle. I then built a lever system using flat bar that mounts to my home made tranny x-member

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Under dash looks factory installed.:)
     
  14. StefanS
    Joined: Oct 7, 2013
    Posts: 1,020

    StefanS
    Member
    from Maryland

    All these ideas are good, especially EZ Cools with the tri 5 handle. The only problem is, the Waltons (and Hot Rod Works for that matter) are the round bar that goes over the trans so there's nothing under it to attach anything to. I'm in the same boat so I'm seeking a solution as well
     
  15. StefanS
    Joined: Oct 7, 2013
    Posts: 1,020

    StefanS
    Member
    from Maryland

    I'm back with a solution. I know this is an older thread but it may help someone in the future that's in the same boat. I'm finishing the e-brake setup in my '51 today so I'll post pics and all as soon as I'm done. I'm running a 4x4 s10 axle, t5 and Waltons crossmember too.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2018
  16. StefanS
    Joined: Oct 7, 2013
    Posts: 1,020

    StefanS
    Member
    from Maryland

    Aaaaand heeeeere we go... first you're gonna wanna buy s10 (or whichever axle you use) e-brake cables. The part number for a '94 is 20180919_104015.jpg .
    Then you're gonna wanna go to Lowes and get one of these... 20180919_102554.jpg and a couple packs of these 20180919_102617.jpg .
    You need to remove the e-brake brackets from the original crossmember so you can attach them to the new crossmember. The short side bolted onto the pass. side with one of the trans mount plate bolts like so... 20180919_165731.jpg and the long side needs to be notched and welded on to the outside of the hoop on the driver side like so... 20180919_165717.jpg . Then you need to get a piece of 1/8" steel and cut a couple pieces out that measure... 20180919_102657.jpg by... 20180919_102721.jpg . Then you need to bend them into a sort of L shape about an inch in from one end, and drill a hole just larger than a half inch in the long end, 20180919_142530.jpg . You'll need to weld these two tabs onto the frame with the short side against the frame. 20180919_144333.jpg . Make sure to leave some play in the cables going to the axle for wheel drop and compression and such. 20180919_165744.jpg . Then you need to measure.the factory front cables to the rear cables, cut them to length with a cutoff wheel or snips and break out the swedging tool and ferrules. It should look something like this... 20180919_160126.jpg . Then you just reconnect the L brackets in the pic above to the e-brake crossbar per the stock arrangement... 20180919_165754.jpg . Then just hook the front cables to the rear cables with the couplers, adjust the tension and enjoy.
     

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