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Projects '52 Chevy 3100 Budget Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jrdamien, Oct 30, 2013.

  1. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    It has begun. I've already got the feeling I am in way over my head but there's no turning back now. I've got a garage to rent until April '14, I have a frame, a body, a motor, and a bug up my ass to do something I've never done before.

    I have no pics. I will be picking the frame up in 2 weekends. The first thing for me to do is clean the frame, prime and pain it. This is a budget build in the truest sense so I need advice as I go.

    How do I clean the frame well and then what sort of paint can I use? I've read a lot of people doing Rustoleum Rusty Primer as a base and then black for the top coat. Any other advice on cleaning and painting?
     
  2. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,455

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    For a budget build, I think I'd steam clean/power wash the chassis, scrape off all the loose paint, and hit it with POR15 or something similar. Rustoleum is fine too, just doesn't grip as well.

    And yeah, you need to post pictures so we can watch! :)
     
  3. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    There will be pictures galore. POR15 is pretty expensive compared to Rusto.
     
  4. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,455

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    Agreed.
     

  5. JunkYardGuy
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 82

    JunkYardGuy
    Member

    Take your time and clean the frame the best you can. I've used a wire wheel on my grinder and it worked out ok. Por 15 paint is the way to go , not cheap but its good stuff.
     
  6. shadams
    Joined: Mar 16, 2011
    Posts: 1,491

    shadams
    Member

    I have said it before, but if I could start over I would just do spray paint just like you said. It is cheap and although not as durable, a little spray touchup and it looks brand new. Try and get any mods/welding done first though...:eek:
     
  7. i have done a bunch of "budget restos" and the way i go about it is this; put the vehicle up on the lift, suit up [tyvec suit, hat, gloves,respirator, face shield] then attack it from one end to the other with, 4 inch grinder with w cup brush, a small die grinder with a small cup brush, assorted scrapers [different shapes] a wire brush and a blow gun. run an exhaust fan! go until your arms ache and the suit, and everything around you, is rusty brown and greasy. i wipe down what i can with a degreaser [carb spray, pre cleano, thinner etc] then shoot a good coat of sem black chassis paint [less than $90 gallon].
    throw the suit, gloves, hat, mask, and shield away,
     
  8. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    That's the plan, then.
     
  9. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    I'm leaving it stock suspension and doing disc brakes. Any suggestions on what should be upgraded or changed in the suspension to make it a safer and better ride? Shocks, springs, tie rods? Did 47 - 54 trucks have sway bars?
     
  10. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,455

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    New king pins/bushings if needed, new shackle pins if needed, steering link overhaul (the arm between the pitman arm and the driver's side spindle steering arm), steering box lash adjustment. They didn't have factory sway bars as far as I know. There isn't much front end stuff to touch on these old trucks.
     
  11. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    Frame arrives Sunday. In the meantime I'm putting together the things I need for the few mods I am going.

    As far as power disc brakes, what can be used from which donor vehicles? What rotors from what other cars fit the stock spindles? What booster and master cylinder can I source from a donor? I want to get as much as possible from the junk yard as opposed to a kit.

    Likewise power steering. I've seen a lot about Toyota boxes but I have found nothing definitive about getting PS with a 235.
     
  12. 6 lug rotors [i used 78 blazer parts] will fit over your hubs, you will have adapt the bracket for the caliper.
    power steering in my opinion is not needed if....the steering box is good, the front end components aren't worn and kept greased and you don't put a wide tire on it.
     
  13. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 4,067

    indyjps
    Member

    I've got 2 54 chevies located, owner is willing to sell but they are pretty rusty, ill be following along to see how you go about this build. I'm trying to figure out if I want to tackle this pair of trucks.
     
  14. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    Have you ever had the distinct feeling you've bitten off more than you can chew?

    Yesterday I picked up the frame from a great guy I met on the 67-72 Chevy forum. Got the rolling chassis for $350.

    The truck I was going to use to tow the frame fell through, and then the trailer I was going to borrow become unavailable, but today had to be the day, so...

    [​IMG]

    Does this violate the *-Haul contract?
    FIY, *-Haul trucks are only as long as they're advertised along the top. I almost drove off with a truck several feet too short for the frame.

    Got it to the garage and gave it a good look over. I already knew it was a in great shape. Someone, somewhere along the line, cleaned and painted it already. No way it's this good after 60 years:

    [​IMG]

    There's not even enough rust to scrape!

    Here's the only bummer. The rear engine crossmember is bent in and will have to be beat out:

    [​IMG]

    Today I'm going to tear it down and clean it up...after I return the pneumatic scraper and degreaser I bought because I just won't need it. I'll use that money to buy the rusty metal primer and paint!

    Funny story: I asked the kid at HB where the pneumatic tools were and he looked at me dead eyed and said "The what?"
     
  15. Looks like a good solid foundation - that will save you some time right there. Nice move on transporting it. I doubt it violated any rules. Under the weight limit, no engine...
     
  16. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    I am hunting for parts in scrap yards. This is a budget build! So not a lot happening.

    Can someone help me solve this puzzle that's holding everything up: What do I do about the brake and clutch pedals? The engine I am getting is a later 35 with hydraulic on the passenger side. Should I do some sort of hanging pedal setup? I can't figure it out and need to to move on.
     
  17. parklane
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 188

    parklane
    Member

    When I did my 54, I moved the master cyl farther toward the rear, and used a power booster/cyl from a pinto. Just had to make up a rod to go from the brake pivot to the booster.
     
  18. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    All tore down:

    [​IMG]

    Rusty metal primered:

    [​IMG]

    I like this stuff. Goes on really, really well, rolled brushed or sprayed.

    On it's side getting bottomed-up while I paint the leafs.

    [​IMG]

    My tie rod is a little bent. My tie ends seem in really good shape. There is a little play in the king pins. I am assuming there should be zero play? If so, do I need to get these pressed out and back in or can I do it with a hammer?
     
  19. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    Only took a 50 ton press to get the pins out.
     

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