Projects '52 Catalina Super DeLuxe Custom Build

Interested in what it costs, mine is currently painted Silver (by PO)

 

Oh nice, thanks, I hadn’t heard of that. I’ll likely respond with that after seeing the quote hAha. I’ll post what they want for 2 bumpers and grille as soon as I hear.

 

You could just nickel plate them for less. Not as shiny as chrome certainly but nicer than the current look. I would ask to see samples of each if possible to see the difference.

 

$2300 for the grille. It breaks down into 10 pieces. My larger pieces have potting and need copper fill after the nickel plating to get it smooth. So that adds cost. (another shop in town quoted $2750 for the grille and $1300 for the bumper which needs repair)

I forgot to ask about race chrome and nickel plating cost. Headed back there today to drop off the grille piece that is on the hood. Forgot it because it was up in the air above my head ha.

 

Here are the issues with my grille. Apparently it was rechromed at one point and must have been all rusted before because whoever did it didn’t fill the pits. So they are stretched from sanding so the pro says.

 

Motor and tran are out! Trans is a TH350 and I already dropped it off at a local shop for a full rebuild kit with a Mild Shift Kit install. $1200

SB350 is going to shop asap. Complete rebuild to 320HP. Could go more but would need new heads on this ‘78 motor. Apparently not a good year for heads. Mild cam goin in. I’m excited to get a fresh rebuilt motor in the car so I don’t have to worry about that tired, unknown motor I used all last summer. Shop said $2600 for everything.

 

Looks like you have a Lokar or similar aftermarket shifter linkage.
Just ordered a kit yesterday, replacing a very curious arrangement by PO.
Are you still using the original column shifter?

 

Yep, that's exactly the setup I'm using. I think I just had to hand bend the rod a hair to get it place nicely and it's been working well on the column.

 

From the looks of things, the PO put the engine back a bit too far, with homemade engine and tranny mounting supports. the shift lever on the column hits the valve cover. It looks like I can cut off an inch or so, it is currently about 5" from the center of the shaft to the current connecting rod shaft.

 

good to figure out these gremlins now ....thats pricey for the grille....consider painting it ....i stay away from chrome.....

 

Out with the old, in with the new. Just in time too. The guy who took the old tired unknown motor said he pulled off the timing cover and the chain just melted because of the plastic clips. Also the cam was completely worn down. Good time to trade up with cash on top.



Sbc 350 bored .030 over has 305 heads and howard performance cam. Block is the last years of the sbc gen 1 mid ‘95 to ‘00




Transmission is getting rebuilt with a mild shift kit, and a 2500 rpm stall converter. Picking that up mid January from the shop.

 

Nice! That should have a bit of get up and go.

Once I'm back at home I've still got something to send to you, it had to go on the back burner.

Phil

 

Thanks Phil, no worries, I know you had a hell of a year.

 

In the process of removing my rear axle now. I was going to get my axle rebuilt to 3.55 gearing from the 2.73 currently in there to better accommodate the powerband of the new motor and cam but I've made some realizations. I have an 8.2" 10 Bolt which doesn't seem worth spending the money on being rebuilt so I sought out after a 12 bolt. Used just pulled from a car they are running for $2200 and that's out of state. A lot of them with 3.08 or 4.11 gearing and clutch plate posi, not interested. So, I started pricing out Ford 9" rear ends and 12 bolts new from Moser (and a few others like Strange) and for an ridiculous amount of money I may have one built to spec. 3.55gearing 30 spline TrueTrac Posi 12 Bolt 58" width (2 inches less than what I got so I can fit my fender skirts finally) and shipped itll be $3800. OUCH, but it's exactly what I want, no guessing the condition on a used axle that is giving me a headache searching for anyway with the right width, spring perches, posi, gearing etc. Tax refund is around the corner, will use that and some loose cash to buy this soon. Moser said 2 weeks it ships from order. Peace of mind with the rear end costs a lot but once it's paid off, the axle, along with rebuilt tranny and new motor, I'm set. Anybody as crazy enough to buy a new rear axle out there? Tell me what ya got.

 

Not a lot going on besides collecting parts for rebuild at the time. Cold weather is just lingering in MN so I've been out of the garage. Couple updates. I picked up my rebuilt TH350 transmission from Remington Auto on Rice St in St Paul, MN for $1400. $900 for complete rebuild and mild street shift kit with labor. An additional $300ish for 2500 RPM stall converter plus taxes. All new ready to rock n roll. I picked up some very expensive Redline D4 ATF for the transmission. I figure if I'm only going to fill it once and its nice and clean right now, why not go premium.



I picked up my powder coated splash pan for the front bumper. A lot of people go black but I thought the red with flake would look good against the color of the car plus make the red emblems pop. I also powder coated the bumper brace black since it was off which looks super nice.


Lastly, this is not my visor but I finally found on FB an example of a chromed visor. I really want to do this to my visor. I was quoted a grand on it so I'm tabling that for now since I have all these expenses with the Pontiac coming up this Spring. I think it's pretty unique and cool. Also, I don't know if I'm painting the car or roof in the near future or never so this will be timeless.


Projected 40Fs next week. Hopefully a Spring warmup is on its way.

 

Slow to update but I have been doing so many hours in the garage. Moser axle came in, got that installed. Looking good as ever.





Had to put on a transmission oil cooler after the Champion radiator threads were stripped at the input on the bottom. I figured it was an easier and better solution for the transmission anyhow.



Reassembled the front bumper bracket and bumper. Unfortunately the bumper I paid for is just barely off, didn't notice until the bolts did not line up so that sucks. Back to the old bumper that's crusty and bent. I'm guessing it's a Chevy bumper or Canadian bumper I don't know.




So now I am rewiring the terrible job Bud's Speedshop did wiring my car. I am going through all the wires in the engine bay, reconnecting, lengthening, organizing and properly wrapping them. Many hours, but it's kind of fun. I am so ready to drive this pup. Waiting on reupholstered seats any day now. Get really excited and very close to finishing up this spring build and my second driveline swap in two years ha.

 

Can the bumper bracket be drilled (carbide) or slotted on a mill to accommodate the bumper you want?

 

Yeah, probably, I didn't have the right drill bits in my tool chest and I'm in a hurry to get it on the road so I just threw my old bumper back on and will figure it out later. Kind of feeling like I want to find the correct one and sell this one that's in good shape.

 

More updates. J & D Plating in St Paul, MN is worthless, 7 months and my grille never got chromed. Just lots of excuses, but on the plus side, I didn't pay the money and I got all my parts back which was a worry of mine since I brought it in pieces. I'll find someone else another time. I spent $20 and got this Quick-Glo Chrome Cleaner on amazon and wow it really does take away rust and polishes up nicely. So that will work for now.


I finished the rear axle install and put my wheels on. Fitment was excellent. I have the Lucas 85W-90 conventional gear oil in the pumkpin about 2.5 qts. I replaced the hardlines with premade copper nickel ones from the auto store, I think they were $8ish a piece for a 20" length. Pretty happy with how it all turned out. Moser says to put the rear end up on jackstands, put the car in drive for 2-3 mins, reverse for 2-3 mins, drive 10 miles then come back and let it cool down. Still need to do all that.


I finished wiring (re-wiring) the engine bay and have moved into the cab where Bud's Speedshop in Stillwater, MN left me a nice squirrel's nest for a hefty price. I'm currently redoing all their amatuer wiring with more amatuer wiring but I feel like mine is turning out quite well so far. Mainly just shortening up long strands, organizing them by where they end up, cutting and weaving them through different routes that make way more sense. Lesson learned, do it yourself and do it right the first time.


I bought a yellow top Optima DH6 battery because my NAPA battery lasted about 2 cranks and died. It has been drained and recharged like 10 times over the last year so I just said forget it. Also, with the sound system I have, it will be nice to have the deep cycle battery. I don't have any other accessories like AC or heat so this battery should be more than enough.

Besides cleaning up the wiring, the car is ready to run. I haven't started it yet. I'm actually super nervous to. I really should just do it. I need to get all the ATF fluid in the trans still as well. I have 5qts sitting in it but need to turn on the car, cycle the gears and then add more. Back to the 50's a local car show is June 18th and I have my car registered to be there. Seats should be back from the upholstery guy any day now. Closing in on the final details. Fingers crossed it all just runs right.

 

Started up the motor last night! First off, this battery is insane, cranked over and started immediately with a little gas poured down the carb. I was so nervous but it idled well and I couldn't be happier that it was running and stayed running. Engine bay shot. Green wire on the vacuum is for the horn I need to install still.

 

First run ever with new motor. Loving the exhaust lub dub.

 

Sounds nice, will you be at BTT50'S with it next week?

 

Had a big push of wiring, axle brake in, bleeding brakes, seat install and test driving the Chieftain the morning of the Back To The 'Fifties. Nothing like a deadline to get your rear in gear.


Of course, not without some wrenching once we arrived. The screw on the shift linkage worked loose and I wasn't able to put it in park once I backed in. Got it tightened up before we drove home.

 

Some upgrades that came through. Front seats were upholstered, still waiting on the rear seats. I'm really happy with the turn out. I love the diamond pattern and the colors are neutral to match the gun metal carpet. I found these reproduction door sills online from CPR for $225 after tax and shipping. So expensive as hell but soo nice. I lovem.

 

Unfortunately, the Moser 12 Bolt changed my driveline angle and I'm having rubbing. I had rubbing on the xframe with the previous 10 Bolt but I had cut the I-beams back enough where it was resolved. I threw some blue tape on it to see how it would go with the 12 Bolt. Well, not great, and I have rubbing under the rear seat area where I didn't before. So, I picked up some Monroe Max Air Shocks for $99 from O'reilly Auto Parts. I got model MA812 that has a compressed 12.75" and extended 20.75" length since my car sits at 16" from eyelet to eyelet on my current gas shocks. I hope pumping the PSI up will prevent the rubbing. Otherwise I will have to consider, stiffer leafs witha 3" drop instead of 4", new 3" diameter driveshaft instead of the current 4", and finally tunneling which I really don't want to do. Hoping to grind back more of the X frame by this weekend and install the shocks.

 

Ooh, like the interior. Do also like the trims, I desperately need a new set.

I have a pair of Monroes in the back of mine, does stop the propshaft from hitting the floor on hard bumps, kept above about 35psi. Ride isn't impacted at that pressure. Stick 70 psi in and it's almost up to stock ride height and gets a bit more firm because it's pushing the springs to their maximum.

Phil

 

Thanks for the great info Phil! That gives me tons of hope. I appreciate the PSI recommendation because I had zero clue what to start at.

Found you a nice pair of door sills for the cheap cheap price of $240. I just looked back at my receipt, mine were actually $225 after tax and shipping.
1949-52 Pontiac 4 door door sills.

 

For reference:
0 psi, empty. Below minimum.


35psi.


75psi. Beyond this it only makes a difference to ride height the more weight you put in the car.



Standing on the rear bumper and jumping up and down will make the suspension bottom out with no pressure in.
By 35psi it stops that, 75 it moves about half as little again.

Phil

 

I like the work you're doing on this rig, can't beat new chrome, but your grill cleaned up nice with the quick glow polish!

I couldn't not ask....... do you have the rear axle U bolts up and over the axle tube now? looks like they're orientated the wrong way in a couple of photos.

Keep at it man, this car is cool as!

 

Damn, you are so right. My friend was helping me install those and he put the first couple in and I followed like a lemming. No wonder they were so long after "installed". So stupid and embarrassing. Ha. Thanks for catching that. I just ordered new ones from Camaro Central for $22 as I cut the remaining threads off. Live and learn.