Register now to get rid of these ads!

51 ford wagon build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by hupster, Oct 30, 2011.

  1. hupster
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 341

    hupster
    Member
    from california

    Here re a few pics of the progress of my 1951 Ford wagon build. It had the typical shoebox rust issues - the rockers, floors, and lower portions of the front fenders.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. hupster
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 341

    hupster
    Member
    from california

    I decided to go with an S10 front clip. I know that will raise the hackles of some on here, but at $100 delivered to my garage I figured it was for me. I leveled the car then layed-out the swap from an old post on here marking all critical points with plumb lines and measurements on the garage floor. I "z-ed" the attachment point to lower the car a couple of inches, tacked the S10 clip and left the finish welding for later. With the S10 front steering box I had to fab a new core support. I cut-up the old core support to get the front sheet metal lined-up.
     

    Attached Files:

  3. hupster
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 341

    hupster
    Member
    from california

    Decided to use a 48 Ford dash. I stretched it 4" and reshaped the leading edge to fit the 51 wagon.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. tnrotter
    Joined: Mar 15, 2009
    Posts: 293

    tnrotter
    Member
    from Tennessee

    Good efforts so far. What engine you putting in it?
     
    Register now to get rid of these ads!

  5. hupster
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 341

    hupster
    Member
    from california

    I'm using a 4.8l out of a 2002 Chevy truck. My friend Eddy (Eddy's Chop Shop) made a 6 x 2 manifold to run carbs as throttle bodies. I'll post pics of that later.
     
  6. hupster
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 341

    hupster
    Member
    from california

    got the engine and trans in and made some mounts. Next the body will come off the frame.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Looking forward to seeing where this goes...
     
  8. damagedduck
    Joined: Jun 16, 2011
    Posts: 2,341

    damagedduck
    Member
    from Greeley Co

    MORE__MORE__MORE i want more pictures-:D
    looks killer.
     
  9. go man!
    we'll be waiting for updates
     
  10. hupster
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 341

    hupster
    Member
    from california

    Fabed some body mounts out of rectangular tubing and welded in some braces before pulling the body off the frame. I also got a little head start on the trans tunnel.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,776

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    What's happening with the wood part of your WOODIE?
     
  12. hammeredrods
    Joined: Mar 26, 2011
    Posts: 177

    hammeredrods
    Member

    Subscribed .If this turns out half as good as your hupp, it will be one very fine wagon. should drive like a modern car with that motor and the clip.
     
  13. woodienut
    Joined: Feb 17, 2009
    Posts: 349

    woodienut
    Member
    from So.Cal.

    Boy does this bring back memories. Looks a lot like my '50 Woodie. Good luck, you may get some ideas from my build pictures on Hub Garage. Keep the pictures coming.
    Subscribed.
     
  14. hupster
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 341

    hupster
    Member
    from california

    I've also been fooling around with the tailgate. I'm going for something similar to what I did with the back of my Hupmobile. I'm using 36 Ford tire covers - need part of a second ring to complete the circle. I cut out the center of a 49/50 Ford wheel for the center of the cover in order to use 49/50 hub caps as I will use the same on the wheels. Had to do a little rust repair on the bottom of the tailgate.
     

    Attached Files:

  15. hupster
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 341

    hupster
    Member
    from california

    Thanks for the encouragement. As for the wood - I'm using a kit from WoodNCarr for the maple and mahogany inserts from Rick Mack.
     
  16. hupster
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 341

    hupster
    Member
    from california

    It's occurred to me that I should explain the timing of this build. I've been working on it for several years, but just decided now to post the progress. There was a major interruption a couple of years ago when I had a heart attack and had to have 8-way bypass. I started back on the project slowly about a year and a half ago. Ok, enough of the back story.

    I rigged some attachments above my lift and removed the body bolts that rust had not removed for me. I ran the car up on the lift attached the body with some stout straps and lowered the chassis down with the lift. I stripped everything off the frame and had it sand blasted.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. 40Standard
    Joined: Jul 30, 2005
    Posts: 5,741

    40Standard
    Member
    from Indy

    interesting build, keep us posted
     
  18. woodienut
    Joined: Feb 17, 2009
    Posts: 349

    woodienut
    Member
    from So.Cal.

    Looks pretty good actually, rockers & some floor panels is all. I'm from the Midwest originally and you just don't find woodie bodies this solid out there anymore. I glad you ticker back in shape. Please keep the Photo's coming.
     
  19. Boones
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 9,545

    Boones
    Member
    from Kent, Wa

    Cool, a woodie build.. maybe it will inspire me to work on mine
     
  20. Not a common build even in the shoebox world. Keep the pics comming. Reminds me of one i had years ago
     

    Attached Files:

  21. hupster
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 341

    hupster
    Member
    from california

    Pictures look a lot better than it was. I had to replace inner and outer rockers and floor from in front of second seat to toe boards.
     
  22. hupster
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 341

    hupster
    Member
    from california

    With the frame clean, I set it up on my lift as on a frame table with a bunch of clamps and a couple of bottle jacks to keep everything square for the finish welds. I added a lot more plating and boxed all the open areas. In the rear is added plating and did a mini notch. I also moved the back shackle hanger up into the frame and added plate around it all. I'm using 4" de-arched rear springs from Jamco, the relocated rear shackle and 2" blocks I made. I also took a couple of leaves out. Total rear lowering should exceed 7". I fabed some mounts for air bags. So, the rear will be air over leafs. The front will also be air bags.
     

    Attached Files:

  23. hupster
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 341

    hupster
    Member
    from california

    here are 2 more pics to go with the last update. it appears I can only include 3 pics of this size with each post.
     

    Attached Files:

  24. Your spare tire carrier continental kit thing is very cool. That'll have the other woodie guys scratchin' their heads. I really enjoy watching somebody with original ideas and skill carry out the plan.

    Nice work!
     
  25. hupster
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 341

    hupster
    Member
    from california

    I bought repo rockers and rocker extensions (woodie-only, pretty pricey), but opted to make my own inner rockers. I used rectangular tubing to replace the stamped inner rockers. I think it gives me a better foundation for the floors.
     

    Attached Files:

  26. hupster
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 341

    hupster
    Member
    from california

    I cut-back the nastiest parts of the lower A and B pillars and added extensions to tie to the inner rockers.
     

    Attached Files:

  27. hupster
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 341

    hupster
    Member
    from california

    With the inner rockers in place I lowered the body back onto the chassis and made-up the rest of the body mounts. I tied the central body mounts together with some square tubing forming something like a sub-rail system. I tacked-on the outer rockers and rocker extensions.
     

    Attached Files:

  28. hupster
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 341

    hupster
    Member
    from california

    Next, I made and installed the floor panels.
     

    Attached Files:

  29. hupster
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 341

    hupster
    Member
    from california

    I much prefer a brake master cylinder on the firewall to one below the floor. However, I wanted to retain the fresh-air vents and a vacuum booster would have blocked the air vent on the driver's side. I decided to use a hydro-boost system. It should provide great brakes without sacrificing the air vent. Hydro-boost is used on many trucks and SUVs and takes some pressure from the power steering system for the boost. I'm using a unit off a Chevy Astro van - master cylinder, inside mount, pedal and all. I made a mount with 1/8" plate as well as a bracket to connect the pedal mount to the lower dash rail. I would caution against just mounting any brake master cylinder to a firewall without some strengthening.
     

    Attached Files:

  30. hupster
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 341

    hupster
    Member
    from california

    With the new floors and inner rockers in place I put the body on a rotisserie so I could finish all the welding on the outer rockers as well as a few small filler pieces on the floors and the firewall.
     

    Attached Files:

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.