(look at my post on 6-1-2009 in this thread for a simple how to) Seeking helpful advice so I don't spend the entire weekend doing a 2-3 hour job. 1) Removing the master cylinder from the spindle that holds it in place between the frame and clutch assembly. It looks as though I have to disassemble the clutch linkages and slide everything off that stupid spindle that holds the brake/clutch pedals in position. Any tips??? 2) I have a rebuild kit and hope the M/C is not too pitted. Any advice on honing the cylinder and the rest of the rebuild? Looking to spend a cold day on my back this saturday, many thanks.
i replaced mine a few years ago, but now wondering if anyone rebuilt there's without taking it out of the car...having a lift would make it easier...
When I did my 50 I had to take all the clutch linkage out like you said, it was not fun at all and required two people to put it back together. One to hold the pedals in place inside the car while the other layed underneith and tryed to get it all back together. I rebuilt my old M/C, works fine.
3rd Question: My rebuild kit has a solid rubber dust cover, and not an accordian style like the original nor in the photo posted earlier. Anyone know if this will this be a problem? - ALSO - I found these two responses from the shoebox site (hopefully I am helping answer future questions on this subject by others). But, I am still looking for advice on problems that I may expect to encouter in the removal and rebuild. The site: http://www.shoeboxford.com/members/forum/openthread.cfm?forum=1&ThreadID=8306 A) "remove the clutch linkage holding screw at the transmission" - that screw is one hell of a knucklebuster! B) "take the bolt that hold the push rod and spring off that the bolt that holds the clutch peddle onto the clutch shaft out this is alittle tight to get at then remove the bracket from the side of the tranmission. The master will hang from the break peddle from the pin that goes thru the peddle arm and the master cylinder there is a C clip that you need to spread apart to get the pin out.Should only take 1/2 hour or so THEN ALL THE FUN STARTS TRYING TO REMEMBER HOW TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER."
Let me know how it goes (tips and tricks) that you had to preform ! im doing the same in a few weeks on my 50! Ive done it b4 but.... we left it on the car! Cheers, Rich
since it sounds like a bitch of a job and you want to do it over the weekend , i suggest you try to find a new master cylinder in case yours is not rebuildable. not trying to rain on your parade, there is a good chance it's not. that way you can keep down time of your car to a minimum and avoid doing the job twice. if you don't need it return it on monday
the shoebox m/c design is insane. alot of stuff going on in such a small area. this is the route i went , a dual m/c kit from eci. it eliminated the crazy stock setup and i added some safety at the same time. if your master is shot and cant be rebuilt let me know, i have a good one im not going to use.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=193472 Thats how I did ours,, If I ever meet the guy that engineered that mc/peddle mount, I'm gonna kick him in the nuts!!
How did this setup work out? This looks like a kick ass setup that I will copy when I get to that point. I like the fact that the M/C looks like it can be filled from a close to stock position, where the ECI kit looks like it ends up under the front seat. Eric
Perfect! Brakes are wonderful, not to hard to push, wife drives it no problem, decent feel, well better than stock. No clutch issues either, very happy with this setup! And yeah the opening is close to the stocker. I think the front and outside of the hole are what was there and I opened it up a bit to the inside and rear.
Thanks Jay. Does the setup need a residual pressure valve or does the rest of the stock setup work as is. Thanks again for posting this up. I had forgotten this post was out there. Eric
The residual valves are built into the mc. When you pick up the replacement part take a small piece of wire and stick it in the outlets, if it slides in all the way with no resistence, no valves and you should add them. However if it slides in with a bit of resistence, the valves are built in and you are good to go.
UPDATE: I was able to remove the M/C for the car, BUT, the rebuild might not be worth the time. I cannot get the "adapter" piece to unscrew in order to remove the guts and hone the inside (see photo). I have the m/c soaking in some solvant and will give it one last try.
I have one,I think its new from Mac's auto parts, I'll sell you for $20 plus shipping.I put mine on the fire wall,after screwing around with the factory one for too long.PM me if you're interested.
i went through the same hassle, got mine apart, said screw it its just not worth it and put in a brand new MC. i dont mess with brakes. i want to stop when i hit that pedal
We rebuilt the one on my '49 coupe the without removing it. You can unbolt everthing except where the linkage goes through the M/C so you can pull down towards you. Mine was leaking and we didn't need much in the way of honing to get the M/C smooth again. I'd take a look. If it's badly worn, I'd replace it with a new one rather than rebuilding it. If it's not bad rebuild it on the car. I don't have a hoist, so took the entire weekend to replace the M/C on my '50 convertible. The "X" member makes removal a complete cock***. Good luck.
OK, guys, you ready for this,,, R&R master Cylinder on my 49 Ford Tudor Sedan Bear with me, I’m trying to visualize what I did… This is just the order I did it in, not the rule!!! Tools needed: open\ box end wrenches handy, ½” up to 7/8” ( I think) Brake line wrenches. Grease, 2 sm cans brake fluid. I had a ballpeen hammer, but I don’t recall using it. Rags up the ho-ho… Couple sm stright screw drivers along with a large one, To help with the springs and removing the clutch peddle. 2 jack stands. Quart Lamp or shop light. Flashlight Floor jack or strong scissors jack. Music of choice, Beverage, I only drank water,,,(until I was done) Block of wood to stick under the rear wheel. Remember safety, I also had my wife come out and make sure I was still cussing, I feel one person, semi-mech inclined can do this, the only special tool would be the brake line wrenches.. I just used the basic tools. 1. Purchase Parts : I got 1- New Master, 1-Rubber Boot and 2-Bushings for the Brake Peddle, along with 2- 12” Brake Lines (For Bench Bleeding) 2- small cans of Brake Fluid. 2. I removed the Carpet, exposing the Brake Access Hole in the Drivers Floor. 3. I jacked the car up just aft of the LF Wheel, about 18-24” high (that s all my jack could push… Then secured with a jack stand front and back. I also but a block under the rear wheel. 4. I used a quart lap on the floor and had a flashlight ready for the few times I needed. 5. Crawl underneath, have your open\ box end wrenches handy, ½” up to 7/8” 6. Remove the Clutch spring. 7. Remove the nut and bolt that holds the clutch peddle to the equalizer shaft (located on the outside of the frame). 8. Remove the big bolt on the bellhousing, holding the pivot to the equalizer rod. There are 2 washers and a felt grease washer here. (look at where the steel washers are in relation to the felt washer… 9. Remove the Brake spring. 10. Notice or mark, where the clutch adjustment rod is, then back off the 2 nuts, 2-3 in. 11. I removed the 2 bolts holding the Master to the frame. 12. At this time I tagged the brake light switch wires and removed them from the brake light switch on the rear of the Master. 13. Removing the 2 master cyl bolts allows you to take the equalizer shaft , up a bit and towards the inside of the car, to remove the clutch peddle (pull the peddle off the shaft first) Then the rectangular part of the eq should drop off along with the return rod. Then you should have clearance to pull the eq shaft out. It will take some wiggling. (NOTE: I have headers and duals on my flatty) 14. You should now have room to carefully loosen the 2 brake lines attached to the back of the Master. Don’t break these bad boys. 15. There is a “C” clip on the outside of the brake rod, where it pivots on the end of the master., that will take some creative screwdriver work to remove, be careful not to bend it too bad, I could not find a listing for a new one. You should now be able to remove the brake peddle arm. 16. If I recall, that’s about all there was…from the time I put the car in the garage, till removing the master, was about 1 hr, including fiddiling with not having all my wrenches handy.. 17. I then used a craftsmen workbench that clamps, to hold the new master. 18. I put the 2 - 12” brake lines on, and bent them in a position to stick into a almost full can of fresh brake fluid. I then filled the master, put the cap on, and was able to pump the master enough to force the air out. I did this several time, and kept checking the fluid level in the master. When no more bubbles showed up in the can, I removed the brake lines. 19. I had bought 2 new bushings, and they seems loose, but I slobbered them up with grease, put them in. 20. Then crawl your butt back under the car, take the master with you… 21. I hooked up the brake lines, because of space. Then started by reinstalling the clutch eq shaft back through, and just sliding on the clutch peddle. Then reinstalling the rectangular eq brackets with washers and felt washer. Don’t forget the clutch adj rod too. 22. Then reassemble, hook the springs up, don’t forget that “C” clip on the brake piviot. 23. Hook up the brake lights…throw away any parts you could not figure where they went, (JUST KIDDING!!!) 24. Make sure your adjust the clutch before you crawl out. 25. Top off the brake fluid. 26. Before you drop it down, check to see if the peddle is nice and hard, and that you also have brake lights. 27. Do the happy dance if all went well. 28. Curse me if it did not… Keep in mind, this is just how I remember I did it, I did not write it down, so I could be off..And also remember, I have headers and duals too. Like I said in my eairler post, 4 hrs start to test drive. Including a 30 min trip to pep boys for the brake lines.
Rather than a step by step, I will give some tips to those who google this in the future: First, buy some liquid wrench for those "fun" nuts and bolts, apply and wait for awhile, I have become a believer. MASTER CYLINDER: 1) Yes, you do have to remove (slide out) the whole friggen clutch spindle assembly, accept it. Don't forget to remove the outer bolt next to the door that holds the assembly in place. 2) Don't be too afraid to lightly move or bend the metal brake lines to replace the stoplight switch on the m/c and the same goes for the rear wheel cylinders. 3) If the rubber replacement boot is not the accordion style. It won't seal as nice. If you get the cup style, simply remove the largest accordion ring and slide inside the cup to provide a better seal around the plunger. 4) Make sure the brake pedal stop is on the bottom of the firewall before installing, and not up in the cabin. BRAKES 1) The drums can stick BAD. So make sure the adjuster is completely retracted with a flat head screwdriver (the slot in the bottom of the dust shield on back). Then get a small piece of metal at least one inch wide and a 1/4 inch thick. Place the metal on the lip of the rear of the drum and hammer towards you on the metal for a better/wider hitting surface. Repeat in a circular pattern until it comes off. 2) After you take off the bottom brake spring, and you don't have the brake pivot tool (as seen in the green bible), you can twist the pads off/on in an up and out movement. Pretty easy. You will need a second person to put them on again. 3) The small metal pressure line connections to flex hoses SUCK. Use plenty of heat on the metal flex hose connector, vise-grips will come in handy. Expect the rubber to POP! out as a bottle rocket, not a time to jiggle the torch. 4) Blow all the lines out with an air compressor 5) Should the front wheel bearings need to be repacked, try placing grease in a sandwich bag and re-packing them. Worked like a champ. FYI, most replacement wheel seals are flimsier than stock. But they should seat decent against the curve in the spindle.
I'm currently replacing my master cylinder (49 Ford), everything loosened up easy enough, but the clutch shaft that runs through the top of the master cylinder won't come out. The shaft is to long and stops when it hits the trans. It's very close, but i've got it as far as it goes. Anyone have any ideas?
Gave up for today, losely re-assembled in hopes someone has a good tip. I believe the correct name is the clutch release equalizer shaft. I'm sure anyone who has changed the M/C knows exactly what I'm talking about.
It MUST come down and out on an angle. Make sure the sleeve that the rod goes through is angled down as well. It is close, but it will come out. Good luck.
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